my clutch replacement checklist...
12-17-2004, 01:55 PM
#1
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my clutch replacement checklist... I'm upgrading my stock clutch on my car is a 98 WS6 (completely stock). How does my list look? I think I found the cheapest prices from GMPartsdirect.com.
15046288 - upgraded gm slave cylinder - $91.38 + s&h $18.28 = $109.66
12570281 - Z06 clutch PP and flywheel - $305.36 + s&h $61.07 = $366.43
14061685 - pilot bearing - $8.17 + s&h $7.95 = $16.12
TOTAL comes out to $492.21.
Is that all I will need? Also, I was thinking of replacing the tranny fluid since most of the fluid is probably going to spill out of the tailshaft, right? (It spilled outwhen I pulled the tranny on my 3rd gen T/A with the T-5.) I will also do the drill mod while I'm in there...
Also, I don't have to get the new flywheel cut do I? Thanks
P.S. Does anyone think that those shipping charges are a a little wacko? 8 bucks to ship a pilot bearing?
15046288 - upgraded gm slave cylinder - $91.38 + s&h $18.28 = $109.66
12570281 - Z06 clutch PP and flywheel - $305.36 + s&h $61.07 = $366.43
14061685 - pilot bearing - $8.17 + s&h $7.95 = $16.12
TOTAL comes out to $492.21.
Is that all I will need? Also, I was thinking of replacing the tranny fluid since most of the fluid is probably going to spill out of the tailshaft, right? (It spilled outwhen I pulled the tranny on my 3rd gen T/A with the T-5.) I will also do the drill mod while I'm in there...
Also, I don't have to get the new flywheel cut do I? Thanks
P.S. Does anyone think that those shipping charges are a a little wacko? 8 bucks to ship a pilot bearing?
12-17-2004, 02:07 PM
#2
Yes, those are all the parts you'll need.
You can get a tailshaft plug here so that your fluid doesn't spill on the floor:
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=173
Do NOT resurface the flywheel. The clutch kit comes with a brand new flywheel from GM.
Also, you can get the slave cylinder from O-Reilley (spelling) Auto Parts store for about $75 and it has a replacement warranty.
You can get a tailshaft plug here so that your fluid doesn't spill on the floor:
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=173
Do NOT resurface the flywheel. The clutch kit comes with a brand new flywheel from GM.
Also, you can get the slave cylinder from O-Reilley (spelling) Auto Parts store for about $75 and it has a replacement warranty.
12-17-2004, 02:33 PM
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I drained my fluid. If you do this, add 4 qts of trans fluid to the list.
I would buy some lock-tite for the flywheel bolts if you don't already have it.
You might just get the pilot bearing from a local dealer instead of paying their shipping.
Does the GM clutch come with a new throwout bearing? You may consider one of those too.
Torque wrench.
I would buy some lock-tite for the flywheel bolts if you don't already have it.
You might just get the pilot bearing from a local dealer instead of paying their shipping.
Does the GM clutch come with a new throwout bearing? You may consider one of those too.
Torque wrench.
12-17-2004, 03:49 PM
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Wow sweet! Thanks for the replies. I'll definately get that plug, even though I will replace the fluid, it'll prevent me from making a big mess :p.
Yep, I'll definatly need a torque wrench, thanks for the reminder. I'll stop by the local dealerships and check out their prices. Thanks again!
P.S. 4quarts of ATF right
Yep, I'll definatly need a torque wrench, thanks for the reminder. I'll stop by the local dealerships and check out their prices. Thanks again!
P.S. 4quarts of ATF right
12-17-2004, 04:38 PM
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Yep 4qts atf.
I just thought of a couple more things. Does the GM clutch pkg come with a clutch alignment tool? If not, you should get one.
The other thing that was a PITA was removing the pilot bearing. I rented a pilot bearing puller from AutoZone. Rent the slide hammer attachment too to make life easier.
The AutoZone puller was too big to fit thru the bearing so I did a little grinding to make it work. You need the puller because the crank is gun drilled. You shouldn't try the old trick of filling the cavity with grease and whacking it to remove.
The 2 bolts that hold the slave to the trans case are easy to strip out so don't exceed the torque specs.
I also had some trouble bleeding the system so I bought a Mighty Vac from Sears. This was a real convenience because I can now bleed it by myself. Otherwise you will need a buddy The bleeder screw really sucks *** to get to and it's messy.
Good luck
I just thought of a couple more things. Does the GM clutch pkg come with a clutch alignment tool? If not, you should get one.
The other thing that was a PITA was removing the pilot bearing. I rented a pilot bearing puller from AutoZone. Rent the slide hammer attachment too to make life easier.
The AutoZone puller was too big to fit thru the bearing so I did a little grinding to make it work. You need the puller because the crank is gun drilled. You shouldn't try the old trick of filling the cavity with grease and whacking it to remove.
The 2 bolts that hold the slave to the trans case are easy to strip out so don't exceed the torque specs.
I also had some trouble bleeding the system so I bought a Mighty Vac from Sears. This was a real convenience because I can now bleed it by myself. Otherwise you will need a buddy The bleeder screw really sucks *** to get to and it's messy.
Good luck
12-17-2004, 04:58 PM
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Will the phoenix bleeder work? I believe it's advertised for brake and clutch bleeds...but it's $75 
. How much was the Mighty Vac?
Also: I'd like to say I'm fairly mechanically inclined. I know that the pilot bearing goes on the tip of the input shaft, but where does that end up? In the center of the flywheel? I'm trying to visualize where it ends up, and I have a decent idea since I've pulled and installed a T-5 in a thirdgen a few times. Where exactly does the pilot bearing have to be pulled out of/off of? I'm thinking it has to be pulled out of the center of the flywheel? Remember, I'm getting a new flywheel and pilot bearing, so would I even need the pilot bearing puller?
Thanks again.
. How much was the Mighty Vac?Also: I'd like to say I'm fairly mechanically inclined. I know that the pilot bearing goes on the tip of the input shaft, but where does that end up? In the center of the flywheel? I'm trying to visualize where it ends up, and I have a decent idea since I've pulled and installed a T-5 in a thirdgen a few times. Where exactly does the pilot bearing have to be pulled out of/off of? I'm thinking it has to be pulled out of the center of the flywheel? Remember, I'm getting a new flywheel and pilot bearing, so would I even need the pilot bearing puller?
Thanks again.
12-17-2004, 05:24 PM
#7
you will need to pull out your old pilot bearing, if its the original 98, its probably nothing but a shell left. i got the autozone slide hammer and pilot bearing puller today and yanked mine out about 30 minutes ago. you can rent this tool from autozone by the way and get all your money back 
.
the pilot bearing is in the end of the CRANKSHAFT, you will have to "convince" the new one to go in as well. i put mine in the freezer for about half an hour before i tried to shrink it up a bit. after you get it in place, fill it up with grease and clear out the inside of the bearing so the input shaft can slide in.
when you pullt he clutch disk off, you will see the pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel, you can remove the flywheel, then start working on the pilot bearing. the pilot bearing hole is a press fit so its going to feel like it's permanantly in there, but the puller will yank it out.
advance autoparts had a small vacuum pump i saw yesterday that was like 38 bux or so.
edit: go to the stealership and pick up 4 quarts of GM syncromesh tranny fluid, it will shift like glass. that stuff is pretty expensive (8.50$/quart) but alot of peoeple (including me) use it and love it.
edit#2: those shipping charges are outrageous, you could ship a whole car overnight to tokyo for less that that clutch ships for! if it went all the way across the US, it MIGHT cost 30 bux. i worked in shipping all this summer and the prices us customers of these places pay for shipping and handling are nuts.
. the pilot bearing is in the end of the CRANKSHAFT, you will have to "convince" the new one to go in as well. i put mine in the freezer for about half an hour before i tried to shrink it up a bit. after you get it in place, fill it up with grease and clear out the inside of the bearing so the input shaft can slide in.
when you pullt he clutch disk off, you will see the pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel, you can remove the flywheel, then start working on the pilot bearing. the pilot bearing hole is a press fit so its going to feel like it's permanantly in there, but the puller will yank it out.
advance autoparts had a small vacuum pump i saw yesterday that was like 38 bux or so.
edit: go to the stealership and pick up 4 quarts of GM syncromesh tranny fluid, it will shift like glass. that stuff is pretty expensive (8.50$/quart) but alot of peoeple (including me) use it and love it.
edit#2: those shipping charges are outrageous, you could ship a whole car overnight to tokyo for less that that clutch ships for! if it went all the way across the US, it MIGHT cost 30 bux. i worked in shipping all this summer and the prices us customers of these places pay for shipping and handling are nuts.
Last edited by TheBlurLS1; 12-17-2004 at 05:44 PM.
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12-17-2004, 06:27 PM
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TheBlurLS1: Ah, now I get it. Thanks for the info.
the prices from SDPC2000:
z06 clutch pp and flywheel (12570281) $315.00
pilot bearing (14061685) $10.95
Shipping and Handling: $16.75
Total: $342.70
and the slave cylinder actually ended up being cheaper at GMpartsdirect
upgraded gm slave cylinder (15046288) $109.66 shipped
Grand total: $451
plus the $35 for the GM synchromesh tranny fluid and the total comes out to $486. Not bad! oh and the bleeder too. so about $525 bucks. still not bad..
edit: would it be possible for me to drain out all of my clutch hydrolics and put all new fluid in and use the vacuum to bleed the system?
the prices from SDPC2000:
z06 clutch pp and flywheel (12570281) $315.00
pilot bearing (14061685) $10.95
Shipping and Handling: $16.75
Total: $342.70
and the slave cylinder actually ended up being cheaper at GMpartsdirect
upgraded gm slave cylinder (15046288) $109.66 shipped
Grand total: $451
plus the $35 for the GM synchromesh tranny fluid and the total comes out to $486. Not bad! oh and the bleeder too. so about $525 bucks. still not bad..
edit: would it be possible for me to drain out all of my clutch hydrolics and put all new fluid in and use the vacuum to bleed the system?
Last edited by poweredbyv8; 12-17-2004 at 06:34 PM.
12-18-2004, 12:39 AM
#10
you should remove your master cylinder, remove the stainless hose from it and do the drill mod. after this is done and flushed out, attatch the master to the slave and do a good bench bleed. you will be all flushed out and bled well. then you can finish up with the vacuum bleed and be good to go.
the drill mod is a MUST, shifting will be much better. do a search on it. i think there is a nice writeup on installuniversity.com or maby ls1camaro.net, or maby on ls1howto.com.
the drill mod is a MUST, shifting will be much better. do a search on it. i think there is a nice writeup on installuniversity.com or maby ls1camaro.net, or maby on ls1howto.com.
