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bleeding clutch problems... HELP!

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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 06:09 PM
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Default bleeding clutch problems... HELP!

Help for a friend of mine...

Anyway, they're doing the 2 man method (just like brakes)

He said that the first few cycles it was pumping well and release gunky fluid, but after that it seems as if it is no longer moving fluid through the line... Pretty sure he's bleeding it correctly so any other thoughts??? thanks...
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 09:07 PM
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are you sure he is making sure the resevoir is still filled with fluid?
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Grimes
are you sure he is making sure the resevoir is still filled with fluid?
I was told the resevoir was never drained... If that indeed happened he'd have to bleed out the master too then huh...
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by txhorns281
I was told the resevoir was never drained... If that indeed happened he'd have to bleed out the master too then huh...
When I did my clutch/drillmod my resevoir would only hold enough fluid to get about 2-3 pump cycles before it needed more fluid. After doing this for a while I tried leaving the cap off the resevoir, and you can get 5-6 pump cycles in before adding fluid. It does not bubble out the resevoir when doing this, unlike the brakes .
Should just need to add fluid and bleed the air out that was sucked in the empty resevoir. Mine went empty before I realized how little the res. holds and I just bled the hell out of it. Working Great!
Oh, and by the way tell him to watch out for dripping brake fluid while under there bleeding. I had some drip right in my mouth. Does NOT taste good!
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 01:55 PM
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I drink DOT 3 daily.
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 03:50 PM
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Any other ideas???

No drill mod crap, no Dot 3 comments please....

Here's what happened:

1) Clutch swap, changed to 01-02 slave, no changes to master
2) Install had zero problems all the way through
3) Started Bleeding the system, got 2-3 pump cycles in, it was releasing dirty, old fluid
4) After initial pump cycles, clutch pedal seems to have soggy pressure in it, but still operates, but does not move fluid through the line when bleeding

I was told the resevoir never completely drained and was assured that the bleeding procedure was performed correctly...

Can anyone help troubleshoot...
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 04:48 PM
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When I've done mine, I pump the pedal until I have some pressure, loosen the bleeder valve for just a moment and tighten it back up. I do that repeatedly for five or six times and it works fine every time. If you try to leave it open long enough to see what's happening, it's usually too long and pressure is lost. I don't worry about seeing what's coming out--just a quick open and shut (enough for any air to shoot out).



Originally Posted by txhorns281
Any other ideas???

No drill mod crap, no Dot 3 comments please....

Here's what happened:

1) Clutch swap, changed to 01-02 slave, no changes to master
2) Install had zero problems all the way through
3) Started Bleeding the system, got 2-3 pump cycles in, it was releasing dirty, old fluid
4) After initial pump cycles, clutch pedal seems to have soggy pressure in it, but still operates, but does not move fluid through the line when bleeding

I was told the resevoir never completely drained and was assured that the bleeding procedure was performed correctly...

Can anyone help troubleshoot...
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by txhorns281
Any other ideas???

No drill mod crap, no Dot 3 comments please....

Here's what happened:

1) Clutch swap, changed to 01-02 slave, no changes to master
2) Install had zero problems all the way through
3) Started Bleeding the system, got 2-3 pump cycles in, it was releasing dirty, old fluid
4) After initial pump cycles, clutch pedal seems to have soggy pressure in it, but still operates, but does not move fluid through the line when bleeding

I was told the resevoir never completely drained and was assured that the bleeding procedure was performed correctly...

Can anyone help troubleshoot...
uhhhh... the "drillmod crap" was mentioned while trying to help , as it STILL sounds like he needs to add fluid to the MC. But, your welcome
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SStillSSmokin
uhhhh... the "drillmod crap" was mentioned while trying to help , as it STILL sounds like he needs to add fluid to the MC. But, your welcome
uhhh the MC was never emptied and the drill mod was never performed so if there is air in the line it would be way down in the system by the slave since that was the only piece that was changed... I've done many clutch installs before and have never run into a problem like this so this is why I am a little puzzled... unless you have some rationale as to why the MC would need to be filled?

If the resevoir was never drained, and the MC was never dumped, and as it sits right now the resevoir is completely topped off, yet still not pulling any fluid in through the bleeding process... then why would you need to add more fluid?

I'm not trying to be an *******, but I hate posting on here and getting mildly relevant or totally irrelevant responses... Thank you for trying though...
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CW00BlackTA
When I've done mine, I pump the pedal until I have some pressure, loosen the bleeder valve for just a moment and tighten it back up. I do that repeatedly for five or six times and it works fine every time. If you try to leave it open long enough to see what's happening, it's usually too long and pressure is lost. I don't worry about seeing what's coming out--just a quick open and shut (enough for any air to shoot out).

This is exactly as I've done in the past and for some reason this time it's not working... I'm trying to formulate an idea as to why there's no hydraulic pressure pulling any fluid through the line... I mean, it could just take a crapload of pumping and bleeding, or maybe a shot MC or who knows... but like i said, I've never had a problem bleeding out a clutch, since it's not rocket science, and this seemed to start well and now it's at this point...
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 05:48 PM
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I would tend to say you might be right about the master possibly being shot. If you really have no fluid movement at all, then it has to be the master--as that is what moves the fluid. If not that, then there would have to be a blockage in the system somewhere.

If you push the pedal, the piston in the master should push fluid through the lines to the slave, through the slave to the bleed valve. Ihave read other posts where people were trying to bleed their master cylinders unsuccesfully because the seals had blown out.

Maybe try disconnecting the line at the bell housing, pushing in on the valve to see if fluid leaks out. Then fill the master and press the pedal (just a little) to see if it pushes fluid there. At least you can get a better visual of what's happening at that point.


Originally Posted by txhorns281
This is exactly as I've done in the past and for some reason this time it's not working... I'm trying to formulate an idea as to why there's no hydraulic pressure pulling any fluid through the line... I mean, it could just take a crapload of pumping and bleeding, or maybe a shot MC or who knows... but like i said, I've never had a problem bleeding out a clutch, since it's not rocket science, and this seemed to start well and now it's at this point...
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by CW00BlackTA
I would tend to say you might be right about the master possibly being shot. If you really have no fluid movement at all, then it has to be the master--as that is what moves the fluid. If not that, then there would have to be a blockage in the system somewhere.

If you push the pedal, the piston in the master should push fluid through the lines to the slave, through the slave to the bleed valve. Ihave read other posts where people were trying to bleed their master cylinders unsuccesfully because the seals had blown out.

Maybe try disconnecting the line at the bell housing, pushing in on the valve to see if fluid leaks out. Then fill the master and press the pedal (just a little) to see if it pushes fluid there. At least you can get a better visual of what's happening at that point.
yeh guess i could tell him to try it... something else i was thinking about... if the MC was shot, the pedal would just sit on the floor though wouldn't it??? Since there would be no pressure built in the lines??? The pedal still operates but is said to feel less stiff??? sooo.... dammit again... lol
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 06:02 PM
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There is a spring in the master which would push the piston back up (and likely the pedal). There is also a clutch return spring under the dash. If the seals in the master failed, I think it would exhibit the symptoms you report. Other posts seem to corroborate that--pedal works but no pressure and feels mushy.


Originally Posted by txhorns281
yeh guess i could tell him to try it... something else i was thinking about... if the MC was shot, the pedal would just sit on the floor though wouldn't it??? Since there would be no pressure built in the lines??? The pedal still operates but is said to feel less stiff??? sooo.... dammit again... lol
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 03:41 PM
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Most likely you have air in your master now. Even though you only changed the slave air travels up and gets stuck in the master. Try bench bleeding the master by taking the braided line up into the engine compartment and sticking it in a clear jar with a small screw to depress the white plastic valve in the end. With the end pressed down on the screw and completely submerged in the fluid in the jar make smooth slow strokes on the pedal. You should see fluid and air coming out. Repeat this until all air bubbles stop. The correct way to do this is really to take the master out and get it level in a vise or just hold it to let any trapped air go up the resevoir tube. The resevoir needs to be higher than the master and the line should be as high as possible. If your master doesn't push fluid in this test you do have a problem with it. These clutches are VERY hard to bleed. The regular pump method does not always work. They might have pumped the pedal and not closed the bleeder before releasing the pedal. This will suck air in.
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 01:15 PM
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If they're using a synthetic or sylicone-based hydrolic fluid, that may be part of the problem. Allot (not all) of the brake fluid in the stores these days is synthetic. I have heard that synthetic fluid causes blow-by in our hydrolic clutch systems. Others that have used it in other types of cars claim that it makes the peddal (both brake and clutch) feel very mushy. Just a suggestion.
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