LordOfChaos

iTrader: (3)

As the title says.. just put my new RAM clutch in... was actually relatively easy overall. Ran into a few snags, but since this was my first clutch install I expected it.

Took 2 1/2 hrs to drop the trans/clutch/flywheel, and about 5 hrs to install and have the car runnin in gear again. Got my assss kicked by the input shaft goin in, and then by the damn quick disconnect (didnt know I had to bleed the press to get it in).

The clutch is awesome thus far, its much firmer than stock, pedal feel is great, it engages each gear better than it used to, and what little throttle I have given it the power delivery is smoother.

My stock clutch was ok, just worn... but my flywheel/press. plate were very burnt/scarred. I had the flywheel turned and it came out great though. 25 bucks at carquest . Looks like someone changed the clutch disc only, and left everything else alone? Not sure.

Overall... love the clutch.. it looked quite capable of the 700hp area as they say on their site (all metal, no organic material). It does have a LITTLE low rpm chatter, but considering I only have 30 miles on it... its not bad at ALL, very quite, can feel it more than hear it... I'm hoping it is less noticeable with driving.


Only question I have is... what is the break in period on the clutch? The site says no break in... but I dont wanna burn up my 400 buck clutch ya know?

Any questions I'll be happy to answer etc....

Thanks

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

If its the 910 disk (sintered iron on front and back) Mike at RAM told me to start off in it a couple of times and then go to the track and launch the dog crap out of it. I did just that and havnt looked back. This thing kicks the hell out of my spec III.


Brad

LordOfChaos

iTrader: (3)

well.. not sure what # the disc is... but it was iron on both sides. seems to grab great. NOT NEARLY as much chatter as I was expecting, very streetable. THough the pedal is a little too close to the flow.. I'm hoping it comes up a lil more... or I definetly need to relearn my powershifting!

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

Well you should be running an adjustable master with that clutch. It does require a longer stoke of the pedal when you shift.

Keep powershifting that T56 and you will be pulling it to build it soon!

Brad

LordOfChaos

iTrader: (3)

really.... the tech at ram said I can use it with all stock components...

I powershifted my camaro for 5 months with no prob, and the previous owner shifted it for about a year with no prob. u sure about this?

glennster

iTrader: (1)

I was leaning toward the spec but way to many bad stories about it.I put in the ram 910/402 with a new slave and master w/drill mod.What a great clutch!

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

Ram Reccomends an adjustable master and a billet flywheel for race/performance applications. It will work with a stock master. You will be able to move the engagement point up a little with and adjustable master.

Some T56s last a while when being powershifted. But the syncros dont like it.

Brad

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

You did do the drill mod right?
If not then you need to. That restriction can cause problems.

LordOfChaos

iTrader: (3)

hrm... the tech said it'd be fine.. oh well. already figured out how ot powershift it now. thing grabs GREAT... whole drivetrain feel slike it hit somethin every shift (grabbin soooo hard). i love it!

I will prolly get an adj master cylinder just to have it.

I have a warranty for 10 more months... then I got to the desert. when i get back its gettin a 9",driveshaft, (should have all suspn stuff by then too), built t-56, not sure what motor, and a turbo a lil ways down the road.

*EDIT*

NO... i did not do the drill mod.

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

do the drill mod!

Brad

LordOfChaos

iTrader: (3)

why???? everything is great right now.. the clutch came up a lil more, has about 180 miles on it now.. grabs like crazy, and its a lil easier on the leg already.

LordOfChaos

iTrader: (3)

got about 350 miles now on the clutch.. pedal came up some more... feels awesome, grabs better.

just got the car tuned, and the ASP UD pulley on, car is runnin awesome. No clutch probs at all! Almost ZERO chatter now except when goin up hills.

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

Because when you release the clutch the restriction does not allow the fluid to travel back to the master fast enough. The clutch will not engage fast enough. It will cause premature clutch failer.

Its not hard to do and it won't cost you anything but the price of some brake fluid.

Brad

LordOfChaos

iTrader: (3)

aite man.. how do I go about doin the drill mod?

was sittin in traffic goofin around with the clutch... when I depress the clutch,a nd push it to 1st (from neutral) it taps for a sec (bumps the car, u can feel it) then it is fine. but everytime I push the clutch to the floor, to put it into 1st from a dead stop.. it 'bumps' a teeny bit. weird. any ideas?

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

that tells me that its not fully disengaging, unless we are talking about 2 different bumps

AtlantaRTA

Exactly as posted above, it sounds like your not fully disengaging. Do you find any trouble sitting at stop engaging reverse, (does it grind a little)? If so that's not the drill mod. It's air in the system, or like mine, I could never get my Ram to work right with the stock hydraulics. Ram told me the same things. They just don't always work with the stock hydraulics like they say. I switched to the McLeod master and the clutch disengaged much better. It's a bigger bore that pushes more fluid and makes your slave travel further, maby too far. Ram does mention you should do the drill mod. It helps the clutch to engage faster when shifting fast. I had the powergrip that has a different facing on the flywheel side. Good luck with yours, I have a powergrip for sale with 1000 miles on it for $200.00 if anyone wants it. I gave up on mine and didn't like the leg cramps the Ram gave me. I also dumped the stock slave for a Mcleod 1373. I think the stock slave causes much more trouble with aftermarket clutches than people realize. I truely hope your clutch works. People have had them work, but not all with the stock master.

LordOfChaos

iTrader: (3)

well... i can still put it in gear, i just can 'feel' it 'bump' the car.. as in the car moves 1/2" or so if the brake isnt on!


No prob at all engaging reverse.

it only does it in 1st gear... 2nd etc. doesnt do anything. Sounds like I may indeed need to do the drill mod... as I um... rarely do anything BUT powershift the car (I bought it to beat the hell out of...)

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like air in they line to me too. If you are going to get an adjustable master then that would be the best time to do the drill mod as you will have the master out of the car.

Pull the hose out of the master cylinder. Its held in by a roll pin. Insert the drill bit (1/8") into the end of the hose and drill out the restriction. Blow the hose out with air to get all the metal out. You will need to depress the end of the quick disconnect to allow the air to flow thru. I use an old female quick disconnect off of an old slave to make the job a lil easier.

Brad

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

minde does the exact same thing, only in 1st

i think the reason it does it in 1st is because 2nd gear is too high a gear to "pull" on drivetrain when stopped

i can mash my pedal 3/4 down and still not shift

i have to put it near the floor to shift

all of my clutch action is happening an inch or so off the fllor

LordOfChaos

iTrader: (3)

well.. i'm gonna go ahead and do the drill mod this weekend and bleed the system out... just to make sure this nice clutch stays nice :-D

anyone got directions for the drill mod? i'm not sure where the line is etc...