BrandonSS

iTrader: (1)

I love my Spec III so far as well. But no way did the II glaze over before 400 miles without you tearing on it. I think that is the problem with these negative comments. I bet 80% of the negative comments are coming from someone that did not completely follow the break in period! They just dont want to owe up to it and push it off on someone else. The other 20% is bad installation or hydraulics causing a clutch failure, OR the other 10% being it actually being a SPEC problem.

I myself DID do a handfull of 75% runs with easy shifts before the 600 mile mark. I didnt do any dumps, but if the clutch dies on me, its more than likely b/c I did those 3-5 75% runs before the break in was complete. I'll owe up to it now incase it does happen. You have proof I blame myself!

But so far with around 1000 on it. Its been to the track for 3 runs and plenty of stop light WOT 1-2nd runs. Holding like a champ with very very minimal chatter and still grabbing like a mo'fo,

1ScrudeDude

I have a Spec 3 with only ~1000 miles on it and 20 passes. I think it's starting to slip already, but I am not sure.

Can anyone tell me what to look for? In the past, I have sold my car before changing the clutch. But being there are no 2005 Z28's, I'm going to keep this one.

BGImportkiller

iTrader: (5)

I have a Spec Stage 3, the old kind as the 3i was not out then. I have had it for almost 2 years and it has almost 6,000 miles on it and it works great. It chattered at first, but that went away and its smooth and hooks like none other.

Vents

iTrader: (9)

just on more pat on the back for spec.

i've had the same spec S3 in my car for almost 4 years now. 660 RW and 730+ ft lbs.

no problems.

1ScrudeDude

Spec 3 with those numbers?! Man, I would go with the Spec 4. Do you hit the strip often?

BadAzz96Z28

iTrader: (8)

MY car sat on jackstands for 3 weeks b/c of a warped pressure plate. when I finished the install I had my buddy up top while I was uner the car to start the bleeding slave process, when he told me he couldnt push the petal i got in the car and it didnt want to move. I put all 210lbs of *** on it and it gave. I blew the hydraulic line out of the slave quick connect. Called spec and they told me it would be a 2 day turn around for the warranty. I pulled the tranny and overnighted them their clutch. Took 3 weeks for it to be replaced and it was a factory defect, warped pp.

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

heres another one for you you guys and girls. I got back my spec clutch today and opened it up to find that they only put new rivots in the disc and then resurfaced the flywheel. This is odd to me because its brand new and I want a new clutch back, Isnt that what I payed for? So I talked the owner of spec and asked him why I wasnt given a new setup since it was only 3 days old when came apart and he said that it was to cut down on the breakin time. WTF????? I only had 82 miles on it.Then when I opened up the package the old rivots that I was told to send to them was in the assembly, the flywheel had some sort of oil on it and then all the bolts were missing and of course I never noticed the bolts were MIA until I went to install the SOB. Those guys flat out S U C K !!!!!! But hay I got more stickers

thesource

iTrader: (60)

I think 99% of the problem with the F body cars is the hydraulics . They suck plain and simple . No matter how bad *** the clutch is , if it is not releasing fully or disengauging completely due to hydraulics then it will fail . It just builds up too much heat and slips or pulls the liner off the disc .

SilverFox_SS

All I can say is i liked my spec 3 untill.....the pressure plate grenaded at about 5k rpm shifting into 5th on the highway and came through the floor. (only 5000-5500mi on it and 2 track passes 12.07 @ 118 1.88-60', installed about 6 months a go) . It took with it the flywheel (wich was also spec alu.), stock bellhousing, headders, floor pan, pass. side subframe ,1 o2 sensor, and blower motor-heater assembly, starter, and alot of wiring.
In all about $4500 in damage and thats just parts. I called spec's tech line a few times and all i could get out of anyone there is that "they would not do anything b/c it was passed the 120 day warranty". WTF??? I'm sitll trying to get them to do something about it (new clutch and flywheel at least) but i keep getting the run arround about who to talk to up there.
i guess when they work they work but you'ed better get an sfi bellhousing just in case. My disk still looked fine just everything else was broke, so good luck to everyone out there brave enough to run a spec...lol



P.S. It was broke in for exactly 1000mi, nothing over3500. but after that......................................boom
also if anyone knows how to get ahold of the person i need to talk to up there or anything feel free to pm me

Strahley

iTrader: (4)

I've heard too many horror stories with spec clutches, so I went with a ram stage 4. I've had zero problems and zero chatter with mine, maybe you could try one of these as your next one? Sorry to hear spec is being a ******** company about this

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

the strangest problem i had was that i had to dremel out a PP bolt hole when i installed my clutch because the hole would not line up with the bolt hole on the flywheel. very odd problem, but relatively a simple fix. otherwise, i just don't have enough miles on my clutch to really hail or criticize it!

SERIALPIMP

iTrader: (4)

So I ask the question is there an aftermarket Clutch out there that is badass, that no one complains about? That can handle power?

98 SNAKE EATER

It's $h!t like this that really burns my ***


Last Summer, my slave crapped out on me and even though my dealer installed Z06 replacement clutch still had plenty meat on it, I thought it would be a good time to upgrade


I had countless clutch packages to choose from


CenterForce was out of the question because I had heard far too many horror stories about disengagement problems....

McLeod was just too much money and I didn't like the fact that it needed an adjustable Master.....

Cartek also required an adjustable Master and it seemed that the only way you could have one properly installed was to take your car directly to Cartek and have them do it

ClutchMasters was over my budget and I only knew one person that had one....

And although he seems to love it, I didn't want to base my purchase on one person's opinion....


RAM seemed to be hit or miss at the time....


After plenty of reading, I went with a Spec Stage 3 X-Pad and Flywheel because everyone on the forums as well as sponsors raved about it being the most problem free aftermarket clutch out there

The fact that it worked with factory hydraulics and that there were numerous GP's going on at the time pretty much sold me

Installation went smoothly....

Break-in was kinda rough cause it had much more chatter than I expected

After 2500 miles of easy City driving, there was still a bit a chatter, but nothing too serious.....


Pedal pressure, pedal position, clamping force and shifting feels better than it ever did

I'm able to smoke 2nd, get sideways in 3rd and chirp 4th HARD!!

But now, with all this talk about problems, I'm beginning to second guess my purchase


I guess only time will tell.....





Rick

Aztek T/A WS7 & 70 RAM AIR IV T/A
Moderator @ LS2, FAST LS1, FUELSLUT,
The F-Body Hideout, LS1Turd & ChopperForums

HUGGER ORANGE SS

iTrader: (2)

Ladies And Gentlemen Easy there Killer's... Any clutch will have their problems, why we hear more about Spec, Because most people have SPEC for aftermarket clutches, only makes sence. All I can say is sorry you guys are having problems... The reason SPEC and other Clutch Company’s out there warranty their product for such a period of time is the fact that clutch issues are traced back to...

A) Improper install..
B) Improper break-In Procedure..
C) Poor / Damaged Hydraulics..
D) Owner Abuse..

All of which is not SPEC's fault..

Of course there is no excuse for poor customer service, ive had good success with them.. But guys think of it from a company's thoughts... They run these clutches on a assembly line, making hundreds at a time. They expect people to have call in's for problems, ect, but the whole time, they ask themselves, sure this guy, and or this guy are having a problem, but the other 100's that bought our clutches out there are fine.. It must be from one of the problems above A - D, and say sorry your having problems, step up to the next stage.. Or, bring your clutch back and we will take a look at it, AKA see if we can find out if it was owner abuse, or our own fault.. If the pads are all worn and glazed, they will cout that up for constant clutch slippage and state again one of the 4 reasons above. Believe me.. There are too many variables to consider when it comes to proper install, hydraulics and break in procedure and owner abuse on a clutch.. Even GM dealers won't warranty a clutch, or if they do your lucky.

I personally have owned 3 different SPEC clutches, and installed many more. Only 1 of them have failed, mine. Okay 1st was a Stage 3 Kevlar Clutch.. Held my Power at that time, just fine, it hooked at the track great however it did chatter a lot when leaving a light.. The clutch never failed. Sold my stage 3 to a guy online when I rebuilt my motor and never heard back from him. Upon Motor Re-build and lots more power I went to a stage 4 Carbon, stage 5 was not out yet. Followed proper break in procedure. The Carbon engaged much smoother than the Kevlar stage 3, but only lasted about 2,000 miles. It failed on me after doing a long pull on the hywy up to 140Mph one night, I got off the hywy and I could not get it back into gear. The metal discentraged around the engagement springs and popped out of the clutch itself, keeping the flywheel, pressure plate and the clutch to rotate at all times.. Called up SPEC and sent her back. After receiving the clutch they quickly saw that the clutch just failed, as the carbon pads did not show any excessive wear, or problems.. They called me back and stated they were supprised this happened and asked my setup. After tell them they understood and told me about the stage 5. They gave me credit to get a stage 5 ceramic clutchnow available. I installed her and never looked back again.. 12,000 miles on my stage 5 and many hard launches.. This clutch is soo strong in fact, it smoked my 315/35/R17 Dunlop tires that I had at the time at 65MPH. Just a shift into 3rd, bring up the rpms and let the clutch out... = SPIN Believe me it's a scary notion to have your car go a little sideways at 70mph.. Now that's a strong clutch guys... I have my motor and tranny out now to be worked on and the clutch still looks in great shape!

Back to the issue at hand..

1st.. I truly believe every F-Body out there needs to get their hydraulics checked, AKA do the drill MOD.. I use Wilwood 570deg Brake fluid for Hydraulic clutch fluid. It withstands hotter temps. On some customers cars I wrap the steel braded master cylinder line with header wrap, due to the fact the line is close to aftermarket headers. Follow these steps and this will help save your clutch and your trans...

2nd.. Have a reputable shop install the clutch..
3rd.. Follow correct break in SPEC, Centerforce, ETC. procedure..
4th.. Have some fun...

Take care guys...

Clint

HUGGER ORANGE SS

iTrader: (2)

After looking at the prices.. I can see why SPEC is popular.

2002z28

iTrader: (1)

nice write-up HUGGER ORANGE SS. i have been babying my new spec 3 and the chatter is starting to go away. i had a gm master mechanic install mine. no drill mod, i dont think he would have done it. so i would say i have a 95% chance of having a great clutch after about 100 more miles of city driving.
its easy for 5-10 people that have had bad luck with the spec clutches to take over the forums, but what about the 1000's of people that have had good luck with their spec's?
justin

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

i have only had spec clutches in my car, some lasted longer than i thought they would, some the opposite...one thing is for sure i sure beat the hell out of all of them with more than what they are rated to handle.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

My Spec 3I **** the bed in 5000 miles... No races, no launches, nothing. My Cartek held up 700 RWTQ for about 1.5 years before it started to slip and I beat the ever living **** out of it.

Dont know what clutch to use anymore but I wont even go over 3000 RPMS (when it gets there) anymore because I happen to like my legs.

HUGGER ORANGE SS

iTrader: (2)

HUH?? I guess your clutch slips after 3000 rpms?

Give a Stage 5 SPEC a try.. They are rated to handle 850 FWHP.. I'm pushing the limit right now and it's still holding up...

Again.. Lots of people are having problems with Hydrolics.. Unless you have gone with a Mc-cloud master cylinder or done the drill mod on the regular GM mastercylinder your hurting the clutch and trans when you get on it and do a 1st through 4th gear pull...

Clint

991LE

iTrader: (2)

He is talking about the grenading clutches. There are a few pics floating around here of clutches that have come apart at high RPM. I have to admit, that it makes me feel a little funny too!