Spec Clutches are a SCAM!!!
05-25-2005, 01:40 PM
#61
I know that a mcloud bellhousing is in my future... simply because I don't wanna take the chance. I went with a spec 4I as it should be total overkill for the power I am making.. took the car to the track last week for the first time, ran better then expected, came home, took teh car out last friday night.. no issues to speak of... but I know that I don't wanna have any either... hence why the housing is on the top of my parts list.
I didn't do the drill mod, when the tranny comes out again to put in the housing, I'll probably do it then, and hopefully be able to get the stock 01 master bleed correctly.... and I'll swap to the highest temp brake fluid I can get when I cross that road. Until then, it's enjoy the car and hope for the best.
For what it's worth, I had the clutch in for about 980 miles before going to the track with it, and 650 of them were before I added the cam and rear to my car.. so the first 650 the clutch saw literally no abuse and didn't see much power at all... so I'm hoping the break in I gave it was adequate. see what it looks like when I get to putting in that housing... probably have about 4000 miles on the clutch by then, and about 6 track passes.... gotta go make 3 more before the end of the summer, test out whatever I can get done between now and then... hopefully it stays together.
I didn't do the drill mod, when the tranny comes out again to put in the housing, I'll probably do it then, and hopefully be able to get the stock 01 master bleed correctly.... and I'll swap to the highest temp brake fluid I can get when I cross that road. Until then, it's enjoy the car and hope for the best.
For what it's worth, I had the clutch in for about 980 miles before going to the track with it, and 650 of them were before I added the cam and rear to my car.. so the first 650 the clutch saw literally no abuse and didn't see much power at all... so I'm hoping the break in I gave it was adequate. see what it looks like when I get to putting in that housing... probably have about 4000 miles on the clutch by then, and about 6 track passes.... gotta go make 3 more before the end of the summer, test out whatever I can get done between now and then... hopefully it stays together.
05-25-2005, 02:10 PM
#62
I've thought about putting Dynamat inside the Bellhousing, but came to the conclusion that if that stuff ever comes loose and falls into the clutch or pressure plate that would wreak havoc on the system, obviously.. So forget that idea...
How much is the other bell housing?
Clint
How much is the other bell housing?
Clint
05-25-2005, 03:47 PM
#63
Originally Posted by HUGGER ORANGE SS
HUH?? I guess your clutch slips after 3000 rpms?
Give a Stage 5 SPEC a try.. They are rated to handle 850 FWHP.. I'm pushing the limit right now and it's still holding up...
Again.. Lots of people are having problems with Hydrolics.. Unless you have gone with a Mc-cloud master cylinder or done the drill mod on the regular GM mastercylinder your hurting the clutch and trans when you get on it and do a 1st through 4th gear pull...
Clint
Give a Stage 5 SPEC a try.. They are rated to handle 850 FWHP.. I'm pushing the limit right now and it's still holding up...
Again.. Lots of people are having problems with Hydrolics.. Unless you have gone with a Mc-cloud master cylinder or done the drill mod on the regular GM mastercylinder your hurting the clutch and trans when you get on it and do a 1st through 4th gear pull...
Clint
Stge 5.. no way. A local one just blew up and came through the floor of his vette and broke the brake pedal assembly.... no thanks, I still like my legs.
The clutch is hard to get to 3000 RPMs. Taking off from a light, I completely let off the clutch pedal and it starts to grab when it feels like it.
My hydrolics are fine. I have the McLeod Master and the drill mod and I wrapped the line in heat wrap....
05-25-2005, 05:19 PM
#65
Originally Posted by HUGGER ORANGE SS
You did the Drill Mod on the Mc Cloud???
Also No matter what clutch you have or use the possibility of the flywheel could come off. It's due to HP levels and improper install or maintanance <--spelling.
Clint
Also No matter what clutch you have or use the possibility of the flywheel could come off. It's due to HP levels and improper install or maintanance <--spelling.
Clint
Yes, the McLeod master doesnt come with a new line.... at least they didnt use to..
The pressure plate came apart, not the flywheel on the Vette.
05-25-2005, 06:05 PM
#66
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ok guys heres what i got going on i was going to wait to see what spec says but screw it i am going to tell everyone now i just installed my spec stage 2 about 800 miles ago it had a horrible rotational vibration removed it monday night my flywheel i had resurfased by a reputable shop 01 slave from gm new pilot bearing so i take the prssure plate off and it has 2 hot spots on it and thats it disc never touched the pressure plate anywhere else only wear on the outer 1 inch of the disc i look at the flywheel and it is nice brown from where the disc has been making full contact so i call spec they have the nerve to tell me that i should have had the pp and flywheel balanced together i said NO and WHY? cause thats what we REQUIRE ok how about saying that in the instructions that you don't send with the clutch thats nice and i have never heard of that unless you have your whole rotating assembly balanced your flywheel should be neutrally balanced along with the new pressure plate that the sell so off to the dealer for answers i go talk to several people there and they tell me i am holding the problem in my hands which was the pp and disc sorry to rant but it has been driving me crazy had to talk about it
05-26-2005, 11:14 AM
#68
12 Second Club
5,000+ mi. and 20 track passes(10 w/125 shot) on my Stg.3 so far and working great!
9" w/spool,4.33's and 275/60-15 MT DR's going on in the next couple of weeks so we'll see.
Did guy's that had probs. wipe the clutch disk(pads) down w/brake cleaner? or just the pp? Everyone says to wipe the pp and flywheel, but the disk is shipped with the pp(which is oiled to protect it until install). I had never seen this discussed but made sure ALL parts were clean and oil free during install.
9" w/spool,4.33's and 275/60-15 MT DR's going on in the next couple of weeks so we'll see.
Did guy's that had probs. wipe the clutch disk(pads) down w/brake cleaner? or just the pp? Everyone says to wipe the pp and flywheel, but the disk is shipped with the pp(which is oiled to protect it until install). I had never seen this discussed but made sure ALL parts were clean and oil free during install.
05-26-2005, 02:43 PM
#69
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iv had my cartek for almost 2 years now no probs out of it still grabs hard. lots of hwy abuse and what not. and plenty of track passes with naws and sticky tires
Originally Posted by 98 SNAKE EATER
It's $h!t like this that really burns my *** 
Last Summer, my slave crapped out on me and even though my dealer installed Z06 replacement clutch still had plenty meat on it, I thought it would be a good time to upgrade
I had countless clutch packages to choose from
CenterForce was out of the question because I had heard far too many horror stories about disengagement problems....
McLeod was just too much money and I didn't like the fact that it needed an adjustable Master.....
Cartek also required an adjustable Master and it seemed that the only way you could have one properly installed was to take your car directly to Cartek and have them do it
ClutchMasters was over my budget and I only knew one person that had one....
And although he seems to love it, I didn't want to base my purchase on one person's opinion....
RAM seemed to be hit or miss at the time....
After plenty of reading, I went with a Spec Stage 3 X-Pad and Flywheel because everyone on the forums as well as sponsors raved about it being the most problem free aftermarket clutch out there
The fact that it worked with factory hydraulics and that there were numerous GP's going on at the time pretty much sold me
Installation went smoothly....
Break-in was kinda rough cause it had much more chatter than I expected
After 2500 miles of easy City driving, there was still a bit a chatter, but nothing too serious.....
Pedal pressure, pedal position, clamping force and shifting feels better than it ever did
I'm able to smoke 2nd, get sideways in 3rd and chirp 4th HARD!!
But now, with all this talk about problems, I'm beginning to second guess my purchase
I guess only time will tell.....
Rick
Aztek T/A WS7 & 70 RAM AIR IV T/A
Moderator @ LS2, FAST LS1, FUELSLUT,
The F-Body Hideout, LS1Turd & ChopperForums
Last Summer, my slave crapped out on me and even though my dealer installed Z06 replacement clutch still had plenty meat on it, I thought it would be a good time to upgrade
I had countless clutch packages to choose from
CenterForce was out of the question because I had heard far too many horror stories about disengagement problems....
McLeod was just too much money and I didn't like the fact that it needed an adjustable Master.....
Cartek also required an adjustable Master and it seemed that the only way you could have one properly installed was to take your car directly to Cartek and have them do it
ClutchMasters was over my budget and I only knew one person that had one....
And although he seems to love it, I didn't want to base my purchase on one person's opinion....
RAM seemed to be hit or miss at the time....
After plenty of reading, I went with a Spec Stage 3 X-Pad and Flywheel because everyone on the forums as well as sponsors raved about it being the most problem free aftermarket clutch out there
The fact that it worked with factory hydraulics and that there were numerous GP's going on at the time pretty much sold me
Installation went smoothly....
Break-in was kinda rough cause it had much more chatter than I expected
After 2500 miles of easy City driving, there was still a bit a chatter, but nothing too serious.....
Pedal pressure, pedal position, clamping force and shifting feels better than it ever did
I'm able to smoke 2nd, get sideways in 3rd and chirp 4th HARD!!
But now, with all this talk about problems, I'm beginning to second guess my purchase
I guess only time will tell.....
Rick
Aztek T/A WS7 & 70 RAM AIR IV T/A
Moderator @ LS2, FAST LS1, FUELSLUT,
The F-Body Hideout, LS1Turd & ChopperForums
05-26-2005, 06:02 PM
#70
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
Stge 5.. no way. A local one just blew up and came through the floor of his vette and broke the brake pedal assembly.... no thanks, I still like my legs.
The clutch is hard to get to 3000 RPMs. Taking off from a light, I completely let off the clutch pedal and it starts to grab when it feels like it.
My hydrolics are fine. I have the McLeod Master and the drill mod and I wrapped the line in heat wrap....
The clutch is hard to get to 3000 RPMs. Taking off from a light, I completely let off the clutch pedal and it starts to grab when it feels like it.
My hydrolics are fine. I have the McLeod Master and the drill mod and I wrapped the line in heat wrap....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/negative-trader-feedback/285757-spec-customer-service-excellent.html
have 1500miles on the the Spec 5 now. When I let out from a light the thing grabs so hard it puts my head into the seat. Getting tuned with a 200shot within the next week. Should put down somewhere in the vacinity of 700rwtq. After the tunning I will have an idea of how the clutch handles high load, but for now I'll just put a few more miles on it.
Clutch is not meant for the street, but with a sensitive foot and hard acceleartion from a stop I seem to manage fine.
my .02
05-26-2005, 07:48 PM
#71
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just put 750 miles on my spec 3. did my first two hard launches/shifts tonight. it felt great. still a little chatter if i try to ease out the clutch. it likes to be slipped around 1300 to take off smooth.
justin
justin
05-26-2005, 10:58 PM
#72
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I always have a laugh when I read the posts by SPEC cheerleaders.... "My clutch works cause I did everything right, its the best blah blah" If you notice, 1/2 the posts are complaints about workmanship.
No matter how well my clutch was installed, it wouldnt help the fact it was pressed together wrong during assembly and bent back an ear. The fact that SPEC denied this and tried to blame UPS all while my car is up on a lift for several days didn't help.
Everyone makes mistakes. Its how the problem is resolved that counts.
No matter how well my clutch was installed, it wouldnt help the fact it was pressed together wrong during assembly and bent back an ear. The fact that SPEC denied this and tried to blame UPS all while my car is up on a lift for several days didn't help.
Everyone makes mistakes. Its how the problem is resolved that counts.
05-31-2005, 02:16 PM
#74
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When I installed my stage 3 I had a rude chatter,took it apart and started measureing
things.Fitted the clutch plate on the lathe and spun it to check for staightness,wobbled
like a drunk.Straightend it as best I could and its much better now and still in the car
after 6000 mi and 38 passes.Don't know how it got bent but it sure was.The pressure
plate was put on a suface plate and checked and that was not bad.
things.Fitted the clutch plate on the lathe and spun it to check for staightness,wobbled
like a drunk.Straightend it as best I could and its much better now and still in the car
after 6000 mi and 38 passes.Don't know how it got bent but it sure was.The pressure
plate was put on a suface plate and checked and that was not bad.
05-31-2005, 04:26 PM
#75
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i wish i would have seen this before i bought mine. i had one in my lt1 and had no problems. thats why i bought this one. if i would have seen this i would have not bought a spec.
05-31-2005, 07:59 PM
#76
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heres the pics of what my spec looked like when i took it apart after 800 mile bad vibration i wonder why
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/328101-pics-my-spec-stage-2-help-where-s-problem.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/328101-pics-my-spec-stage-2-help-where-s-problem.html
