need help getting my tranny back in
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
need help getting my tranny back in well I cant get my trans back in after installing a new clutch. I used the alignment tool that was provided and torques everything down to spec. I got the splines on the input shaft to line up so it goes in most of the way but I just cant get the damn thing in all the way. There is about a 1/4 inch of space between the trans and bellhousing.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,242
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From: Lakeland, FL
If you can start the bolts just use them to snug it up, just make sure you go a couple turns at a time and use 4 bolts 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom to do this so you don't strip anything out.
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 270
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Originally Posted by Mike K.
If you can start the bolts just use them to snug it up, just make sure you go a couple turns at a time and use 4 bolts 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom to do this so you don't strip anything out.
Here is a safe thing to try. I discovered this trick yesterday getting my tranny in. Get one of those tie down straps. Warp it over the top of the tranny and attach it to the front k-member. Make sure strap is straight then just pull one time. I did this and it slid right in. It is just the tension from the slave cylinder spring is all and I couldn't get enough "umff" to push it in. This is safer than the bolts because it is an even pull all the way and it won't damage or strip anything if something is not right. Enjoy. 
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 35
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Originally Posted by ElChiefWS6
well I cant get my trans back in after installing a new clutch. I used the alignment tool that was provided and torques everything down to spec. I got the splines on the input shaft to line up so it goes in most of the way but I just cant get the damn thing in all the way. There is about a 1/4 inch of space between the trans and bellhousing.
Reconnect the SLAVE. I did this 3 times w/o doing that and used bolts. The 4th time i connected the slave and it slid in like....well, it went in just fine. If it still doesn't go in after you reconnect the slave then you DIDN'T line everything up perfectly. The slave spring is NOT stout enough to keep you from pushing a 200lb(?) tranny into the bellhousing.
I would fight w/ this thing for quite a while and always gave up and did the bolts...just do yourself a favor and try connecting the slave.
Hope this helps,
- Jeff
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you have to put effort into getting the tranny completely flush with the bellhousing. regardless of how you do that - using the bolts, a tie down strap, 3 friend's feet, you are going to have to force the transmission that last half an inch or so...that's just the way it is.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
I took the tranny back out, checked the alignment using the alignment tool, put the damn thing back up and in the car
I now have less than a 1/4 inch to go, it just wont go in. how hard is it supposed to be get that damn thing in. I checked a haynes manual and it says not to force it in. Is the pilot bearing a press fit on the input shaft?
Any ideas as I am starting to really get frustrated and I dont feel comfortable tightening down the bolts to the tranny in, just doesnt seem right.
I now have less than a 1/4 inch to go, it just wont go in. how hard is it supposed to be get that damn thing in. I checked a haynes manual and it says not to force it in. Is the pilot bearing a press fit on the input shaft?
Any ideas as I am starting to really get frustrated and I dont feel comfortable tightening down the bolts to the tranny in, just doesnt seem right.
try this. crack the bleeder loose. thats the only way i have gotten mine to go FLUSH with the motor. I to did not like the idea of pulling the trans with bolts. The strap idea, no offense who posted that idea, but it sounds absolutely foolish. Think about it, if you strap something to the trans and fasten it to something lower than the trans, you run a very high risk chance of damaging the input shaft, bearing, pilot, disk and even the slave. Just crack the slave bleeder and all you have to do is lightly push the trans onto the housing. Give it a shot.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,242
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From: Lakeland, FL
Originally Posted by ElChiefWS6
I thought about that but I didnt want to force anything. Have you done this before. Thanks for the tip
Yep have done it several times, just make sure its lined up and turn each bolt equal turns and don't turn one to far without turning the others so you don't bind on anything.
that's exactly what you have to do, like i said before. just use the bolts to draw it in. the reason it's so stiff is because the input shaft is being guided into the pilot bearing for a tight fit - that fit, being guided by a ~100lb transmission and being torqued from underneath a car, can't be a simple task to do.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
well I ried the bolt method and it worked, went right in very easily actually. Now my question is this with a new clutch it will grab a lot sooner apon realeasing the clutch pedal correct???
Also how long of a break in period for a stock replacement clutch?
Thanks again for the help
Also how long of a break in period for a stock replacement clutch?
Thanks again for the help