Digging deeper into the clutch stuck to the floor problem
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (48)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,354
Likes: 1
From: Columbus, ohio
Digging deeper into the clutch stuck to the floor problem ok trying to find the real cause of this, ussaully everyones response is do the drill mod or replace your hydraulics. Well i did all of those and didnt work. i replaced my clutch and fixed it for a short time, but stated to come back
I had a spec 3 at first then tried a ram 6130/402
the ram wasnt as bad as the spec, but it slowely got that feel of the clutch loosing all pressure, and would stick after a full throttle run, and even a spongy feeling at normal shifting.
the only thing i havent replaced is the hydraulic line, which im going to be doing now.
well i went and sent my clutch in to ram to have them test it. other then the burn marks, the pressure plate was warped .050". He asked me if i had been slipping it exesivly. I told him i wouldnt call it extensive but normal slippping.
he asked me if i had a spacer in the trowout bearing, which i do not. so he's sending me one. Also he sugested upraging my clutch plate to the 900/30 series which he thinks it would better suite my application.
so i will be having 980/402. Ill get my flywheel resurfaced again then put it back in and see if it holds up.
I had a spec 3 at first then tried a ram 6130/402
the ram wasnt as bad as the spec, but it slowely got that feel of the clutch loosing all pressure, and would stick after a full throttle run, and even a spongy feeling at normal shifting.
the only thing i havent replaced is the hydraulic line, which im going to be doing now.
well i went and sent my clutch in to ram to have them test it. other then the burn marks, the pressure plate was warped .050". He asked me if i had been slipping it exesivly. I told him i wouldnt call it extensive but normal slippping.
he asked me if i had a spacer in the trowout bearing, which i do not. so he's sending me one. Also he sugested upraging my clutch plate to the 900/30 series which he thinks it would better suite my application.
so i will be having 980/402. Ill get my flywheel resurfaced again then put it back in and see if it holds up.
I had the stuck pedal prob after I installed my Textralia and I was using a brand new stock master cylinder which I had fully and completely bench bled. So I put my old Mcleod adj master in and havent had the problem since.
I think it is just air in the lines that causes it, but I am sure there can be other causes as well. Maybe the air gets trapped somewhere during hard accel and it takes a manual pull back on the pedal to move the fluid back where it should be????
All I know is, make sure you have FULLYYYY bled the system before you start examining other causes...
I think it is just air in the lines that causes it, but I am sure there can be other causes as well. Maybe the air gets trapped somewhere during hard accel and it takes a manual pull back on the pedal to move the fluid back where it should be????
All I know is, make sure you have FULLYYYY bled the system before you start examining other causes...
My buddy has this problem only after WOT runs. It will stick to the floorboard and he has to pull it up with his toe... If you guys figure it out let me know so I can foreward the knowledge on to him.
josh
josh
Originally Posted by smokinHawk
ok trying to find the real cause of this, ussaully everyones response is do the drill mod or replace your hydraulics. Well i did all of those and didnt work. i replaced my clutch and fixed it for a short time, but stated to come back
I had a spec 3 at first then tried a ram 6130/402
the ram wasnt as bad as the spec, but it slowely got that feel of the clutch loosing all pressure, and would stick after a full throttle run, and even a spongy feeling at normal shifting.
the only thing i havent replaced is the hydraulic line, which im going to be doing now.
well i went and sent my clutch in to ram to have them test it. other then the burn marks, the pressure plate was warped .050". He asked me if i had been slipping it exesivly. I told him i wouldnt call it extensive but normal slippping.
he asked me if i had a spacer in the trowout bearing, which i do not. so he's sending me one. Also he sugested upraging my clutch plate to the 900/30 series which he thinks it would better suite my application.
so i will be having 980/402. Ill get my flywheel resurfaced again then put it back in and see if it holds up.
I had a spec 3 at first then tried a ram 6130/402
the ram wasnt as bad as the spec, but it slowely got that feel of the clutch loosing all pressure, and would stick after a full throttle run, and even a spongy feeling at normal shifting.
the only thing i havent replaced is the hydraulic line, which im going to be doing now.
well i went and sent my clutch in to ram to have them test it. other then the burn marks, the pressure plate was warped .050". He asked me if i had been slipping it exesivly. I told him i wouldnt call it extensive but normal slippping.
he asked me if i had a spacer in the trowout bearing, which i do not. so he's sending me one. Also he sugested upraging my clutch plate to the 900/30 series which he thinks it would better suite my application.
so i will be having 980/402. Ill get my flywheel resurfaced again then put it back in and see if it holds up.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (48)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,354
Likes: 1
From: Columbus, ohio
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
one other worthwhile thing to do while you have all this apart is to wrap your lines in some type of thermal shield. I believe heat is also a factor.
I was making 512/536 on the mustang dyno. was turbocharged, built engine and cam. still had the problem when i went back to NA for a while, but it wasnt as bad, it didnt stick but got a very spongy feeling with a WOT run. When i went back to NA, i was probably only making 300rwhp as the LCR engine and not enough timing was realy putting me down on power.
Trending Topics
with the 6130 and the 402L pressure plate you need either an adjustable master cylinder or the 598 shim kit from ram...
otherwise...you will have these problems.
you also NEED to perform the "drill mod"
otherwise...you will have these problems.
you also NEED to perform the "drill mod"
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
I have found various reasons for it. Usually a weaker clutch allowing alot of heat build up.Then the pedal suffers.
I've had good luck keeping the fluid clean w/ frequent flushes. Then my McLeod master (rebuilt of course) w/a twin disc. The pedal now stays consistant & predicatable.
I had a few single disc set ups, they held for a while then the pedal feel would degrade as the clutch did.
I would love to come up w/a mechanical release set up someday....
I've had good luck keeping the fluid clean w/ frequent flushes. Then my McLeod master (rebuilt of course) w/a twin disc. The pedal now stays consistant & predicatable.
I had a few single disc set ups, they held for a while then the pedal feel would degrade as the clutch did.
I would love to come up w/a mechanical release set up someday....
Mine does it sometimes after a full pass, seems like the longer I am at WOT, and the more gears I run through, the worse it is. And if I spray it, FORGET about it. I sprayed at the top of 2nd on a couple street races a few weeks back. When I went for 4th the pedal wasn't there. Had to pump it to get pressure so I could get it in gear 
I have flushed out the old fluid more than once, bled it, insulated the line, and did the drill mod. Seems to get worse as power increases. I wish someone made a cable actuated kit for these cars, I would rather have that.....
I have flushed out the old fluid more than once, bled it, insulated the line, and did the drill mod. Seems to get worse as power increases. I wish someone made a cable actuated kit for these cars, I would rather have that.....
Yea, I asked East Side about my problem, and they said they want to start by bleeding the system, but most likely it was time to replace the stock clutch. I've had this issue on and off, and actually it hasn't done it in a while, but similarly to many of your accounts in this thread, my pedal sticks usually 3-4 shifts at WOT.
I had this problem a while back and tried Nineball's writeup and that has fixed it. I've never had the pedal not come back up after doing this. Wrapped 3/8" rubber fuel line around the master to slave line along with a crap load of reflective aluminum heat shield finished by aluminum tape. I also relocated the line as far away as possible from the headers. Replacement LS6 Clutch, flywheel, PP, Drill Mod, new slave
Worked great also on my original LS6 clutch.
Worked great also on my original LS6 clutch.
I have a theory,several years ago we had a vette in the shop that kept getting air in the system from the rotors being warped and "pumping" the 4 brake pistons at every wheel.I wonder ,a warped fly or plate would make the PP fingers uneven and could cause the slave to be pumped in and out at high rpm displacing the fluid back up to the master or making the fluid overheat?BTW,I have a Ram HD w/billet fly and no shim with zero problems,even hotlapping.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I am just starting to have this problem in my 99 SS M6. It is at the shop right now, waiting to hear the call, hopefully it wont be too bad. I will post the problem and there attempted fix. Hopefully itll all work out. -Win
yea me too but only with the turbo on. weird ... so I replaced the clutch with a centerforce gold and didnt have the turbo on one time and no problems till I hit just under 3,000 miles and BOOOM no more clutch. Im looking seriously at the Mcleod twin and alum flywheel and slave. found it for like 1,200.00 any suggestions ??
~Guy
~Guy
Originally Posted by BriancWS6
Mine does it sometimes after a full pass, seems like the longer I am at WOT, and the more gears I run through, the worse it is. And if I spray it, FORGET about it. I sprayed at the top of 2nd on a couple street races a few weeks back. When I went for 4th the pedal wasn't there. Had to pump it to get pressure so I could get it in gear
I have flushed out the old fluid more than once, bled it, insulated the line, and did the drill mod. Seems to get worse as power increases. I wish someone made a cable actuated kit for these cars, I would rather have that.....
I have flushed out the old fluid more than once, bled it, insulated the line, and did the drill mod. Seems to get worse as power increases. I wish someone made a cable actuated kit for these cars, I would rather have that.....
mine started sticking to the floor at WOT. then it started sticking under normal driving. then one day it just laid on the floor and it wouldn't come up. anyways, to make a long story short, i replaced the master with the RAM adjustable, replaced the hydraulics with DOT 4 and i bled it with a mityvac and that seemed to cure the problem. i just finished it earlier today and seems to be doing good. i had a chance to run through the gears with no probs.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: Mechanicsville, VA
Yea I had my first experience with it yesterday at the track. Track was extremely prepped and I had just driven an hour and a half to get there with only about 20min of cooldown. Went leave and it slipped in first, went to second (pedal was still there), slipped bad in 2nd, went to go to third and no pedal. I look down and the pedal was stuck to the floor. Put it in neutral and it popped right back up.
Made another pass later in the day, after 2-3hrs of cooldown, and it performed flawlessly. Drove it an hour and a half back and to wrok this morning with no probs.
I just figured it was hot from driving up there and that all of the slipping I was doing in 1st/2nd on my run caused it to overheat and F up???
Made another pass later in the day, after 2-3hrs of cooldown, and it performed flawlessly. Drove it an hour and a half back and to wrok this morning with no probs.
I just figured it was hot from driving up there and that all of the slipping I was doing in 1st/2nd on my run caused it to overheat and F up???