Transmission gets "stiff" after racing...
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Since I've owned the car, which is the last year and a half, whenever I take the car to the strip and beat on it for awhile, the trransmission gets stiff and is difficult to put into gear. It stays like this for a couple days after racing and then through normal driving goes back to normal and there are no issues whatsoever.
I went to the track today and after about 10 runs it was almost physically impossible to get it into reverse, and 1st wasn't much better. It literally took all the strength in my arm I've got to put it into reverse. All of the gears are very hard to shift into, but it can be done. It's a lot worse today than it ever has been before, so I figured I'd ask if people have any ideas as to what could be causing it. Also I didn't miss a shift today, so that's not the reason it's worse today, I don't powershift either. I'll see in the next couple days if it goes back to normal again. Thanks for the help.
I went to the track today and after about 10 runs it was almost physically impossible to get it into reverse, and 1st wasn't much better. It literally took all the strength in my arm I've got to put it into reverse. All of the gears are very hard to shift into, but it can be done. It's a lot worse today than it ever has been before, so I figured I'd ask if people have any ideas as to what could be causing it. Also I didn't miss a shift today, so that's not the reason it's worse today, I don't powershift either. I'll see in the next couple days if it goes back to normal again. Thanks for the help.
#3
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
its most likely your hydraulics, that fluid could be getting hot, bubbling up, and you cant get full pressure to disengage the pressure plate from the clutch, therefore, its partially engaged, and when thats happeneing, it doesnt like to shift. i would re-bleed the hydrualics, and buy a mccloud master w/drill mod if you dont already have those 2 mods. i had the same problem in the past, and it lead me to premature trans wear and tear
#4
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Everything in the system is stock right now. The main problem is when the car is sitting, it's almost physically impossible to get the into gear. When you put it into reverse it makes a slamming sound, and the car almost jolts, that's when you're sitting perfectly still. However once you're driving it's easier to shift, it's still hard but if you shift firmly it just "hangs" between the gears for a second and then shifts in.
#5
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
your case is a little different than mine, but i still think that your problem is partial engagement even with the pedal all the way in . new hydraulics solved my problem. check your master resivoir, and see if its got some nasty dark colored fluid in it. not only is your hydraulic system stock, its got a 2000 slave in it, which sucks. usually when you have this problem, it never effects you when your racing or driving hard, in my case and my friends cars, we have learned that hydraulics effect normal driving and bent forks, broken pads etc.... effect the performance
#7
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by five0killr
check your master resivoir, and see if its got some nasty dark colored fluid in it.
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by five0killr
its most likely your hydraulics, that fluid could be getting hot, bubbling up, and you cant get full pressure to disengage the pressure plate from the clutch, therefore, its partially engaged, and when thats happeneing, it doesnt like to shift. i would re-bleed the hydrualics, and buy a mccloud master w/drill mod if you dont already have those 2 mods. i had the same problem in the past, and it lead me to premature trans wear and tear
#11
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's one of the few successes I've heard. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=mcleod+master
That's the usual story for the McLeod's that happened to me and I've heard of time and again.
That's the usual story for the McLeod's that happened to me and I've heard of time and again.
#12
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Desert wasteland
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Ls1Joe
I have a McLeod in mine and recommend it to my customers. I think that is one of the only products that they make I would recommend to everyone. I have had mine for almost 2 years and have never had any trouble with it.
#13
TECH Addict
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Ru2n00n3er
Where is this? Is it the reservoir right next to the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay? If it is, the fluid is solid black.
I've also heard bad reviews about the McCleod (sp?) master cylinder. I'd stick to the OEM parts.
#14
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I talked to RPM Transmissions and he recommended me to soak up the fluid in the clutch reservoir with a towel, and then put new in. Then I bled that into the system by pumping the clutch with the reservoir open, and this helped A LOT. It shifts unbelievably easier now. It's still not back to completely normal, but it's much better.
He thinks there is probably a leak in the system that is letting air get in, and bleeding the system got the air out.
He thinks there is probably a leak in the system that is letting air get in, and bleeding the system got the air out.
#15
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think you definitely boiled your clutch fluid. Also, if you have the stock master w/o the drill mod I would recommend a new GM 01-02 master and completely bleed the system. You can try a Mcleod master but I have yet to see a significant advantage over updated OEM stuff.
#16
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Any other thoughts guys? I haven't been driving the car over the winter much so it's been put off until now. The problem went away completely after a couple days, as it normally does, but I went back to the track the next week or so and it came back again, then fixed itself again, etc. Since those two incidents though, the trans. has been a bit harder to get into gear, and I've also started noticing a bit of grinding into 2nd and 3rd. Maybe once a month it'll grind a bit going into those gears, but if I put it back in neutral and put it back in, it's fine.
The other strange thing is that when the trans. gets really stiff after racing, my cruise control doesn't work. It starts working again when the transmission gets back to normal.
I'm going to try replace the fluid and bleed the system this week, and change the trans. fluid as well.
The other strange thing is that when the trans. gets really stiff after racing, my cruise control doesn't work. It starts working again when the transmission gets back to normal.
I'm going to try replace the fluid and bleed the system this week, and change the trans. fluid as well.
#18
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NW Houston, TX
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Regaurdless of the opinions in this thread, you now know its the hydraulics. You know it needs to be bled, so check around for leaks in the system so see if anything needs to be repplaced, and go from there.