View Poll Results: Is the lighter upgrade shaft worth the extra $$$?
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driveshaft poll
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driveshaft poll Driveshaft poll for a 500RWHP (including a 100 shot) drag radial only car
3" aluminum stocker with 1350 joint
performance steel upgrade
3.5" aluminum .125 wall
Is the 3.5" aluminum worth the extra $$$?
I put the poll here because its an M6 and the auto guys don't seem to worry to much about upgrading driveshafts.
3" aluminum stocker with 1350 joint
performance steel upgrade
3.5" aluminum .125 wall
Is the 3.5" aluminum worth the extra $$$?
I put the poll here because its an M6 and the auto guys don't seem to worry to much about upgrading driveshafts.
Last edited by pasbonsimon; Nov 16, 2005 at 08:31 AM.
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the Mark Williams 3.5 aluminum shafts start at $489
steel is cheaper and twice the weight
so how much RWHP am I gonna lose with a steel shaft? A search yeilds no results....
steel is cheaper and twice the weight
so how much RWHP am I gonna lose with a steel shaft? A search yeilds no results....
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the rear is a Moser 12 bolt -
if an upgraded steel shaft weighing twice as much is only going to cost me 5-RWHP that may be the way to go. I was anticipating more like 10-12.
if an upgraded steel shaft weighing twice as much is only going to cost me 5-RWHP that may be the way to go. I was anticipating more like 10-12.
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Originally Posted by NLinnear
With nitrous, I would go with a steel unit. You don't want to see what happens to your car when a driveshaft breaks; loop or no loop.
Originally Posted by CHEVYXTREME_00
If you want steel you can get one made out of cromoly or if you want the look and stength factor carbon fiber is really good.
Steel ... Its stronger and cheaper. Who cares if it weights a little more or if it costs you a couple of hp , just remember that'll be last you buy as long as you take care of your u-joints.
What about chrome moly? Billingsely offers them from by stange.
Mine stayed together even when I broke my torque arm at the line.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/402689-broke-spohn-torque-arm-w-e.html
I'd have to weight it but dont seem to be alot heavier than the aluminum stocker.
Mine stayed together even when I broke my torque arm at the line.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/402689-broke-spohn-torque-arm-w-e.html
I'd have to weight it but dont seem to be alot heavier than the aluminum stocker.
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Originally Posted by Tally TransAm
For high horesepower applications 1200+. Seamless 4130 tubing with chromoly heavy duty 1350 yokes and cryo treated solid u-joints. Welded within .0010 total runout and electronically balanced to insure smooth operation. Price: $339.00. A complete line of forged transmission slip yokes is also available.
This is very interesting- gonna find out what it weighs
Thanks
Last edited by pasbonsimon; Nov 17, 2005 at 10:52 AM.
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Originally Posted by Steve Burger
I have the Strange from Billingsly. It is a DOM tubing and a very nice peice. It is not a lot lighter than steel.
Thanks
Originally Posted by smokeum99ta
Steel ... Its stronger and cheaper. Who cares if it weights a little more or if it costs you a couple of hp , just remember that'll be last you buy as long as you take care of your u-joints.
Alum i tend to avoid too many horror stories
C/F price range is quite high although I really would like to try one.
C/M is probbly how i'll end up going.