M6 and 12 bolt =No No?
12-13-2005 | 06:39 AM
#41
Originally Posted by Slow00ls1T/a
12 Bolt isnt bad at all some since you have a m6 which are harder on rears they say a 9' is best for m6s since the rears take so much of a shock on launch
This is where my vote is.
12-13-2005 | 09:47 AM
#42
Originally Posted by Toasty
Why not go with the 9"? It seems to be about $400 cheaper than the 12-bolt, and stronger. Where's the drawback?
And yes they hold up to 400rwhp and 4k dumps quite easily
12-15-2005 | 05:48 AM
#43
http://media.putfile.com/aarontrack005
http://media.putfile.com/aarontrack007
Leaving at 6500. My tranny is getting rebuild this winter though, it doesn't like going into 2nd, 3rd, or 4th while racing. As of now, I have no 3rd gear.
12 bolt with 390 gears on MT drag radials.
http://media.putfile.com/aarontrack007
Leaving at 6500. My tranny is getting rebuild this winter though, it doesn't like going into 2nd, 3rd, or 4th while racing. As of now, I have no 3rd gear.
12 bolt with 390 gears on MT drag radials.
12-15-2005 | 06:47 AM
#44
I wish i had either one 
But i have got dozens of 3 grand drops with et streets on spray. LOL but it was with a stock burnt clutch now its a spec stage 3. So i think this season is going to the end for the 10bolt 
But i have got dozens of 3 grand drops with et streets on spray. LOL but it was with a stock burnt clutch now its a spec stage 3. So i think this season is going to the end for the 10bolt
12-15-2005 | 09:45 AM
#45
Originally Posted by TAwananbe
5-6K????? on a manual?can you teach me how to do this?
I feel like im going to break the car doing 2k or so and easing into it.
I know, I know.....the car is still damm fast even without good 60s.......1.9s to be exact.
i couldnt imagine pulling a 1.6 and lowering my car into the low elevens or 10s on spray......
im just to afraid to break a 2-3k dollar piece on the car.
12-15-2005 | 09:29 PM
#46
Originally Posted by Ryan02SS
The 12 bolt itself is a very strong piece. When set up right with the proper parts and splined axles it can take all the abuse most of us here could throw at it. There are very few LS1's on this board that actually NEED a 9". When you hear of the 12 bolt taking a crap it's hardly ever a shaft or the R@P. It's always the damn posi. Add a Detroit Locker to your 12 bolt or spool and don't worry.
12-15-2005 | 10:02 PM
#47
Originally Posted by ramairstyle00
just remember slipping it out hurts the clutch. you have a good rear end so give it hell
Originally Posted by smokeum99ta
I wish that was true for me! I just sold my 12 bolt because I kept braking R & P about every 8-10 launches. A billingley's 9" is on its way, hope that holds up.
12-16-2005 | 03:31 AM
#48
we have a local with a heavy vert and a stage 4 clutch and an lt1 thats h/c to the gills both running around on slicks with the 12 bolt. they have had no problems what so ever, even with posi units. its my opinion that you don't need a 12 bolt till your running single digits.
12-16-2005 | 05:51 AM
#49
How much power were you putting down? Slicks or DR's?[/QUOTE]
400rwhp380rwqt N/A . 28" ET streets. My car has mininal weight reduction. I launch at 6k using the nitrous (150). After 2 R & P's broke then went the posi, so I went to a spool. This time broke R & P , twisted the splines on one of the axles (33 spline) and broke output shaft on tranny. All that happened on one same launch. You couldn't have imagined how pissed I was after getting my tranny rebuilt, proshifted, chronetic(sp), viper outputshaft and so on then installed it only to find out that the rear was broke also. So I figured why keep wasting money on this 12 bolt knowing that it's not gonna last that long for me ? So I sold it a couple of weeks ago.
400rwhp380rwqt N/A . 28" ET streets. My car has mininal weight reduction. I launch at 6k using the nitrous (150). After 2 R & P's broke then went the posi, so I went to a spool. This time broke R & P , twisted the splines on one of the axles (33 spline) and broke output shaft on tranny. All that happened on one same launch. You couldn't have imagined how pissed I was after getting my tranny rebuilt, proshifted, chronetic(sp), viper outputshaft and so on then installed it only to find out that the rear was broke also. So I figured why keep wasting money on this 12 bolt knowing that it's not gonna last that long for me ? So I sold it a couple of weeks ago.
12-17-2005 | 08:29 PM
#51
We've got a Moser 12bolt on our M6 car with a 408, pushing about 520hp at the wheels. Normally drop the clutch around 5000~5500 rpm with slicks on. Its been holding up great with the 40,000+ miles on it. Still on the bone stock trans too. 
::knock on wood::
::knock on wood::
12-17-2005 | 08:44 PM
#52
a 9 inch is overkill. it takes more power to turn than a 12 bolt. smokeum, you must have had a shitty rear or a lot of HP if you broke that 12 bolt. my dad has a moser 12 bolt with 33 spline axels in his 68 SS. and he has a BBC putting 600hp to the crank and turnin a richmond 5 spd. with 4.10's in the rear and 5k clutch dumps on wrinkle walls he has had no problems since he got it goin 4 years ago.
12-17-2005 | 11:03 PM
#53
Well the rear was a moser 12 bolt w/ 33 spline axles and eaton posi. I've had some luck with it for awhile, but once shi- started breaking it seemed to be a common accurance. If i'm not mistaken I think I broke the R&P 5 times, twisted one axle, and broke one posi unit. My car is just about full weight, Launch at 6k, I made 400/380 n/a on a dyno, spray nitrous (150) out the hole, and run a 28" ET street tire. I know that my car is kinda heavy to be launching the way I do but thats how i'm gonna drive it. I guess if I would ease out of the hole the 12 bolt would last a lifetime. Oh well it my money ,not yours.
12-18-2005 | 03:02 AM
#55
Originally Posted by smokeum99ta
Well the rear was a moser 12 bolt w/ 33 spline axles and eaton posi. I've had some luck with it for awhile, but once shi- started breaking it seemed to be a common accurance. If i'm not mistaken I think I broke the R&P 5 times, twisted one axle, and broke one posi unit. My car is just about full weight, Launch at 6k, I made 400/380 n/a on a dyno, spray nitrous (150) out the hole, and run a 28" ET street tire. I know that my car is kinda heavy to be launching the way I do but thats how i'm gonna drive it. I guess if I would ease out of the hole the 12 bolt would last a lifetime. Oh well it my money ,not yours.
12-18-2005 | 10:53 AM
#56
I was thinking along the same lines, or he got one of a shitty lot of castings for his rear, and the case/axle tubes are weak and flexing too much.
My 12 bolt/M6 are holding up ok other than whining all day long, and the posi is still fine, but I'm not exactly cutting any times worth writing home about just yet.
My 12 bolt/M6 are holding up ok other than whining all day long, and the posi is still fine, but I'm not exactly cutting any times worth writing home about just yet.
12-18-2005 | 12:32 PM
#58
Originally Posted by Tim @ EADPerformance
There was talk awhile back that the axle tubes on the Moser 12bolt housing would flex and bend about .060" on a HARD launch, and that is where most of the problems arise on the 12 bolts. Once you bend that axle tube and its not straight anymore, you will always have issues with it.
12-18-2005 | 02:02 PM
#60
Originally Posted by SKI
12 bolt is a great rear.i have one in my 67 chevelle for years and have not had any problems with it .A 9 inch rear takes more horse power to turn than a 12 bolt.
how much more power? i've seen all these people talk about 9 inch is such a power robber but i lost know a few people who only lost 3-4 hp going from a stock rear end to a 9 inch. if you have a 12 bolt in there now, leave it. if your buying from scratch, i say get a 9 inch. more options, cheaper parts, and parts are EVERYWHERE