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Issue with drill mod.

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Old 02-02-2006, 09:52 PM
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Default Issue with drill mod.

ok today i did the drill mod and everything went ok i drilled it out and all. But we try to bleed the system and the pedal just doesnt wanna get hard weve done it several times but nothign. I drilled out the braided line that goes the master cylinder and installed everything right. and foollwed thsi procedure for bleeding it.
Press and hold clutch

crack bleeder

wait

Close bleeder

release clutch

continue.

any help would be appreciated
Old 02-02-2006, 10:13 PM
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also when we pulled the master out the rod that goes to the pedal, was not staying straight it could rotate and move around
Old 02-02-2006, 10:36 PM
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i made one of these, and modified their procedure a little... http://www.ls1camaro.net/sections.ph...ticle&artid=71

Whenever i did it, i had someone pumping fluid through the lines, and i opened the bleeder until it came out good. This worked alright for me. If you dont wanna do that, just try letting it gravity bleed overnight, and see if that helps.
Old 02-02-2006, 10:54 PM
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waht do u mean gravity bleed?

also do you think it is possible that i did not bench bleed it good enough? is this an import step?
Old 02-03-2006, 08:29 AM
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i knw someone else has to of run into problems like this?
Old 02-03-2006, 09:25 AM
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by gravity bleed he means just put fluid in it, pump it a couple times, and then go to bed. come back to it in the morning or afternoon and crack the bleeder screw loose and see what ya got. then start bleeding again. we had the same problem after installing all new brake lines, proportioning valve etc. just dont leave the bleeder screw open all night, the fluid will eventually run out and get on the floor, FUBARING ur floor.
Old 02-03-2006, 10:09 AM
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Fill master and open bleeder let master run down but not emty .fill it again shut bleeder your done.Or bleed it like you
bleed brakes pump...pump...hold..open...close.
Old 02-03-2006, 10:17 AM
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To bleed the brakes, I had received these instructions from Textralia:

pump a couple times.
OPEN BLEED SCREW
pess clutch pedal to floor
CLOSE BLEED SCREW
release clutch pedal.
Repeat as necessary (a few times)

This drives the fluid out and doesn't suck any air back into the system through the bleed screw opening.

Hope this helps.
Old 02-03-2006, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Schantin
To bleed the brakes, I had received these instructions from Textralia:

pump a couple times.
OPEN BLEED SCREW
pess clutch pedal to floor
CLOSE BLEED SCREW
release clutch pedal.
Repeat as necessary (a few times)

This drives the fluid out and doesn't suck any air back into the system through the bleed screw opening.

Hope this helps.
ok thanks i will try this method tonight

should i have to bleed it alot? like 30 times
Old 02-04-2006, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by LightEmUpLs1
ok thanks i will try this method tonight

should i have to bleed it alot? like 30 times
I was told it should only take "a few times" to get all the air from the system. You'll feel the clutch pedal stiffen up and feel normal when the air is gone.
Old 02-04-2006, 07:24 AM
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yeah i did it last night and ended up using the mity vac to get it fixed.

we pulled the master cylinder and stuck the lil needle thing on the mity vac and sucked out the air, then connected the m/c up with the pedal and tranny. then did the old way we with a person under there open and closing the bleeder valve while i press the pedal.

I notice when i drive it at WOT it wants to stick and not go in or out of gear, could there still be air in the system still.

I plan on going back with the mity vac and doing the whole system with it
Old 02-04-2006, 12:24 PM
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Yeah.. I have fabbed up a setup to use a vacuum bleeder pump for this prob. It seems to be the only way to do it when the master cylinder has sucked air. Vacuum bleed = way to go

Last edited by Steve01SS; 02-04-2006 at 12:31 PM.
Old 02-05-2006, 06:11 PM
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Yeah it works fine execpt under WOT it still gets rather mushy i bleed the system again and it seems to still have air in the system because it has gotten better but still a lil off.

Could it be the slave cylinder that needs replaced with an 01 02?

Any help would be great

also i plan on upgrading to a new clutch along with slave/master some time soon
Old 02-05-2006, 11:30 PM
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Ive used this on an older ford pickup, works great IF you have an air compressor. Get an extra cylinder cap and tap it for an air chuck nipple, install nipple. Set the compressor pressure for about 20 psi and plug into the cap, making shure the boot is out of the master and its filled to the top with fluid. I admit its a trip to get an extra master cap but it worked awesome the last time I had to do a f-350 slave!!!
Old 02-07-2006, 10:18 AM
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Get yourself a mity vac and you'll be able to bleed just fine. I've tried the method where you pump the clutch a million times and it's a waste of time.
Old 02-07-2006, 04:06 PM
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i have a mity vac but how many times do i need to bleed it with the vac?
Old 02-08-2006, 12:34 PM
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Use the mity vac until no more air comes out. The mity vac works great and you can do it by yourself. It worked like a charm for me and that was the only way I could get the system bled right.
Old 02-08-2006, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
Get yourself a mity vac and you'll be able to bleed just fine. I've tried the method where you pump the clutch a million times and it's a waste of time.
u must have been doing something wrong then. using a vaccum to bleed the system is good but sometimes it wont seal that well for the hose and actually let some air back in. thats y the pump hold loosen tighten method is best. it leaves no room for error if performed correctly.



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