Issue with drill mod.
Issue with drill mod. ok today i did the drill mod and everything went ok i drilled it out and all. But we try to bleed the system and the pedal just doesnt wanna get hard weve done it several times but nothign. I drilled out the braided line that goes the master cylinder and installed everything right. and foollwed thsi procedure for bleeding it.
Press and hold clutch
crack bleeder
wait
Close bleeder
release clutch
continue.
any help would be appreciated
Press and hold clutch
crack bleeder
wait
Close bleeder
release clutch
continue.
any help would be appreciated
i made one of these, and modified their procedure a little... http://www.ls1camaro.net/sections.ph...ticle&artid=71
Whenever i did it, i had someone pumping fluid through the lines, and i opened the bleeder until it came out good. This worked alright for me. If you dont wanna do that, just try letting it gravity bleed overnight, and see if that helps.
Whenever i did it, i had someone pumping fluid through the lines, and i opened the bleeder until it came out good. This worked alright for me. If you dont wanna do that, just try letting it gravity bleed overnight, and see if that helps.
by gravity bleed he means just put fluid in it, pump it a couple times, and then go to bed. come back to it in the morning or afternoon and crack the bleeder screw loose and see what ya got. then start bleeding again. we had the same problem after installing all new brake lines, proportioning valve etc. just dont leave the bleeder screw open all night, the fluid will eventually run out and get on the floor, FUBARING ur floor.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 7
From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
To bleed the brakes, I had received these instructions from Textralia:
pump a couple times.
OPEN BLEED SCREW
pess clutch pedal to floor
CLOSE BLEED SCREW
release clutch pedal.
Repeat as necessary (a few times)
This drives the fluid out and doesn't suck any air back into the system through the bleed screw opening.
Hope this helps.
pump a couple times.
OPEN BLEED SCREW
pess clutch pedal to floor
CLOSE BLEED SCREW
release clutch pedal.
Repeat as necessary (a few times)
This drives the fluid out and doesn't suck any air back into the system through the bleed screw opening.
Hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by Schantin
To bleed the brakes, I had received these instructions from Textralia:
pump a couple times.
OPEN BLEED SCREW
pess clutch pedal to floor
CLOSE BLEED SCREW
release clutch pedal.
Repeat as necessary (a few times)
This drives the fluid out and doesn't suck any air back into the system through the bleed screw opening.
Hope this helps.
pump a couple times.
OPEN BLEED SCREW
pess clutch pedal to floor
CLOSE BLEED SCREW
release clutch pedal.
Repeat as necessary (a few times)
This drives the fluid out and doesn't suck any air back into the system through the bleed screw opening.
Hope this helps.
should i have to bleed it alot? like 30 times
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 7
From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
Originally Posted by LightEmUpLs1
ok thanks i will try this method tonight
should i have to bleed it alot? like 30 times
should i have to bleed it alot? like 30 times
yeah i did it last night and ended up using the mity vac to get it fixed.
we pulled the master cylinder and stuck the lil needle thing on the mity vac and sucked out the air, then connected the m/c up with the pedal and tranny. then did the old way we with a person under there open and closing the bleeder valve while i press the pedal.
I notice when i drive it at WOT it wants to stick and not go in or out of gear, could there still be air in the system still.
I plan on going back with the mity vac and doing the whole system with it
we pulled the master cylinder and stuck the lil needle thing on the mity vac and sucked out the air, then connected the m/c up with the pedal and tranny. then did the old way we with a person under there open and closing the bleeder valve while i press the pedal.
I notice when i drive it at WOT it wants to stick and not go in or out of gear, could there still be air in the system still.
I plan on going back with the mity vac and doing the whole system with it
Yeah.. I have fabbed up a setup to use a vacuum bleeder pump for this prob. It seems to be the only way to do it when the master cylinder has sucked air. Vacuum bleed = way to go 
Last edited by Steve01SS; Feb 4, 2006 at 12:31 PM.
Yeah it works fine execpt under WOT it still gets rather mushy i bleed the system again and it seems to still have air in the system because it has gotten better but still a lil off.
Could it be the slave cylinder that needs replaced with an 01 02?
Any help would be great
also i plan on upgrading to a new clutch along with slave/master some time soon
Could it be the slave cylinder that needs replaced with an 01 02?
Any help would be great
also i plan on upgrading to a new clutch along with slave/master some time soon
Ive used this on an older ford pickup, works great IF you have an air compressor. Get an extra cylinder cap and tap it for an air chuck nipple, install nipple. Set the compressor pressure for about 20 psi and plug into the cap, making shure the boot is out of the master and its filled to the top with fluid. I admit its a trip to get an extra master cap but it worked awesome the last time I had to do a f-350 slave!!!
Use the mity vac until no more air comes out. The mity vac works great and you can do it by yourself. It worked like a charm for me and that was the only way I could get the system bled right.
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
Get yourself a mity vac and you'll be able to bleed just fine. I've tried the method where you pump the clutch a million times and it's a waste of time.
