Clutch problem on daily driver.....need help!
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Clutch problem on daily driver.....need help! I have a SPEC 3 in my 02 Z28. The clutch only has about 3K miles on it, or so. Its a daily driver. Well, tonight, the pedal felt really soft. I didnt give it much thought until it progressively got worse. After about a 10 mile round trip, the pedal doesnt work until its on the floor, and you have to try and put your foot through the floorboard to get it to go into gear. There is no resistance in the pedal until its on the floor. The pedal does return up though, to normal position. The slave and master are the original equipment. The fluid has never been changed, from what I know. The clutch doesnt seem to be slipping at all. It just doesnt want to work until the pedal is being pressed very hardly on the floor.
Do any of you guys have any idea of what this might be, or what I should look at first? Have any of you experienced the same problem? Any input would be greatly appreciated, since this is my daily driver, and I need it to get around. Thanks!
Do any of you guys have any idea of what this might be, or what I should look at first? Have any of you experienced the same problem? Any input would be greatly appreciated, since this is my daily driver, and I need it to get around. Thanks!
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From: Charleston, SC
Originally Posted by lowchevy2go
i have the same problem exactly... i bought a new ram adj. master cylinder..hopefully it will help
Any other opinions?
p.s. Thanks a ton for your opinion, lowchevy2go!
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From: Charleston, SC
Originally Posted by pontiacfireTAWS6
try bleeding the lines, sounds like its as simple as that really. I dont think its anything major as far as a part going bad.
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Originally Posted by lowchevy2go
i bled mine for 45 min. and it never got better. by the time i was done all the fluid in the system was fresh...didnt help
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Bleeding the hydraulics would be the first step I would take. Is the fluid black? If so, bleed all that black fluid out via the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, then use a mityvac to suck all the air bubbles out via the hole in the master cylinder reservoir. If your problem persists, then move onto replacing the slave or master.
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From: Charleston, SC
Originally Posted by Krab
Bleeding the hydraulics would be the first step I would take. Is the fluid black? If so, bleed all that black fluid out via the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, then use a mityvac to suck all the air bubbles out via the hole in the master cylinder reservoir. If your problem persists, then move onto replacing the slave or master.
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From: Charleston, SC
Originally Posted by lowchevy2go
sorry lol...
Last edited by Nittany_marine; Mar 20, 2006 at 01:08 AM.
It is highly unusual for clutch problems to develop over only a 10 time span. It is usually more like weeks or months as the clutch disc begins to reach the end of its' serviceable life and then you begin to feel slippage or difficult shifting. If the pedal travels that far before it releases (disengages the transmission from the engine) you may have air in the system and bleeding is in order. You have to bleed the air at the slave just like you would a hydraulic brake system.
You have to vacuum bleed it from the top reservoir find a old car somewhere get a vacuum bleeder like the mighty vac (25$) drill a small hole in the old cap you'll already see a little hole in it just drill there with one of the adapters from the mighty vac place it in the hole pull to about 15in of vacuum do not exceed 15 in you'll see the fluid come up and hear air bubbles bubbling. Repeat till you do not hear any bubbles. Done no going under the car. I Have a factory service bulletin on the upgrade bleeding procedure ill try to dig it out and post it.
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From: Charleston, SC
Originally Posted by 98SS2836
You have to vacuum bleed it from the top reservoir find a old car somewhere get a vacuum bleeder like the mighty vac (25$) drill a small hole in the old cap you'll already see a little hole in it just drill there with one of the adapters from the mighty vac place it in the hole pull to about 15in of vacuum do not exceed 15 in you'll see the fluid come up and hear air bubbles bubbling. Repeat till you do not hear any bubbles. Done no going under the car. I Have a factory service bulletin on the upgrade bleeding procedure ill try to dig it out and post it.
bleed first
check and make sure bellhousing bolts didnt come loose (trust me..i know
)
replaced master and/or slave.. one at a time or both at once since the slave is a high wear item. pilot bearing should be replaced also since your already there.
check and make sure bellhousing bolts didnt come loose (trust me..i know
)replaced master and/or slave.. one at a time or both at once since the slave is a high wear item. pilot bearing should be replaced also since your already there.
did u see any leaks on the line itself? if not, then your slave took a ****.