Well my clutch just died driving into work so time for my Cartek. I've never done a clutch install before so this should be really fun, do you guys have any links that could help me out here?

Also any tools that I should make sure I have like a clutch alinment and such?

Thanks a lot.

 

I think www.installuniversity.com may have something on it. I know when I did mine I made a few mental notes and they are as follows:

~Have lots of extensions and a few swivels as this comes in handy when trying to remove the top tranny/bellhousing bolts.I think I had about 2' of extensions.

~Have something to pry the bellhousing from the block with.

~You'll need a 1/4" drive 10mm socket and ratchet to bleed the slave. Some people have even duct taped a socket to a screwdriver so that you don't have to try to switch the ratchet from tighten to loosen a hundred times to bleed it, keep in mind there isn't a lot of room to maneuver your hands/fingers near the bleeder.

~get the car as high off the ground as you can.

~Grease the splines on the input shaft.

~You'll need a new pilot bearing and a pilot bearing puller and slide hammer and a clutch alignment tool (all of these tools can be rented from autozone for free)

~you might want to even grease the dowels on the tranny case so that you don't have to fight for hours to get them to go into the bellhousing properly when reinstalling the thing.

~keep in mind that you're working with aluminum and that a lot of force to pry things apart or to torque things down isn't a real good idea as aluminum isn't as strong as other materials that you may be used to working with.

~Refill the tranny with GM synchromesh tranny fluid. I know it says to use Dexron III ATF, but I have found that GM's Syncromesh is better.

Keep in mind this is in no way a step by step but rather a collection of mental notes from when I did mine last.

 

Goto Cartek's page there is an indepth write up on how to install a new clutch. Step by step.

-CC

 

Defantly check out Carteks website and print out the instructions, they come in handy.
1 major thing that you should do that I found out after having to take the tranny out 3 times. Remove the pins on the Flywheel and leave them out Bleeding the master/slave is a huge PITA. The best way to do it is to reverse bleed it. If you are going to normal bleed it, then try and get the car on an angle so the slave is straigh up and not at an angle. With the slave at an angle air tends to sneek in. If you are using the Cartek master then you will have to move your clutch pedal up quite a bit. The pedal will be noticably higher than stock. My next cluth I will be switching to the McCloud master for I have heard good things about it, and I beleive that the clutch pedal high is same as stock w/that unit. Make sure you have plenty of time, and it is a huge PITA on your back, but it can be done. Good Luck. Michael

<small>[ April 18, 2002, 08:06 AM: Message edited by: MAFs 00 Ws6 ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RutanZ28:
<strong>I think www.installuniversity.com may have something on it. I know when I did mine I made a few mental notes and they are as follows:

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My notes:

I installed a new GM 2001 master and slave when I did mine (Z06 clutch). They came pre-bled but I bled them a little just to make sure. I installed the new master cyl. first. Then I hooked the slave to the master hyd. line before installing the slave. Then gravity bled. Do not step on the clutch pedel with the slave hanging loose!! (ask me how I know... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> ) That way I could have easy access to the slave bleeder, and position the slave so the bleeder was pointing straight up. Then, with the slave still connected to the master, I just slipped it over the input shaft of the tranny as I was putting the tranny up into place, and bolted it up.

Be sure to center the bleeder in the housing opening!! There is enough play in the two bolt holes in the slave to allow the bleeder to get too close to one side or the other of the opening, and not allow you to get a socket on the bleeder once everything is installed.

I used Never-Sieze on all the bolts going into aluminum.

I did mine on Rhino ramps (front) and jackstands (rear). It was a little close, but I got it done!

Didn't remove the Y-pipe. Just slid tranny tailshaft over the Y till the input shaft cleared the bellhousing, then dropped the front of the tranny down and it slid right out.

Didn't use a tranny jack, just a regular floor jack. I did use a friend to help me juggle and balance things, though!

<small>[ April 19, 2002, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: SS_Steve ]</small>