Here's how to bleed the clutch without getting under the car.
09-16-2006, 12:20 AM
#61
I was having major shifting problems after my heads/cam. Tonight I got rid of the stock master in place of a new Mcleod adjustable unit. I also installed an Energy Suspension poly trans-mount. I used the Mity-Vac to finish off bleeding the clutch after gravity bleeding and some conventional bleeding. To sum it all up....**** on the bleeder valve method after using the Mity-Vac.
I stayed below 12 hg and it didn't take but a few minutes to get the remaining air out. My pedal feels firmer now than it ever has as far as I can remember. It hits the next gear alot harder now. The shifts are silk compared to before. I couldn't be happier.
I stayed below 12 hg and it didn't take but a few minutes to get the remaining air out. My pedal feels firmer now than it ever has as far as I can remember. It hits the next gear alot harder now. The shifts are silk compared to before. I couldn't be happier.
05-14-2007, 05:14 PM
#67
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Oh sweet... I've gradually developed a little bit of trouble shifting into 1st and R, and had planned to bleed the clutch before I gave in and had a shop install a new clutch and hydraulics. Now I can do the bleeding part easily myself.
Thanks!
Thanks!
10-31-2007, 01:31 PM
#70
Teching In
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How did you determine that the seals were "flipped"? Did you take the master apart and see them flipped?
04-21-2008, 12:18 PM
#71
FormerVendor
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Actually no its not better...it just worked well for you. Ideally, remote bleeder + vacuum would be ideal.
I've done both methods dozens of times...I think manual bleeding first and then vacuum bleeding is ideal, but vac alone does a great job
04-21-2008, 09:25 PM
#72
Holy thread revival, but I too had great success using the mityvac method. I pumped it up to about 10-12 Hg vacuum and then held it suspended above the master cylinder, and slowly pumped the clutch peddle. 2-3 big bubbles came out, but I decided to leave it attatched at 10 Hg vacuum for a little while because I was getting some tiny, suspended bubbles. Now my clutch is rock solid with clear fluid.
04-21-2008, 10:44 PM
#73
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Holy thread revival, but I too had great success using the mityvac method. I pumped it up to about 10-12 Hg vacuum and then held it suspended above the master cylinder, and slowly pumped the clutch peddle. 2-3 big bubbles came out, but I decided to leave it attatched at 10 Hg vacuum for a little while because I was getting some tiny, suspended bubbles. Now my clutch is rock solid with clear fluid.
07-07-2010, 03:10 PM
#75
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did this yesterday, normal bleeding wasn't working good enuff to get full peddle so I went to oriellys and got the mighty vac, worked pretty good, not sure if i did it right but i kept it at 9-10, so I wouldn't damage any seals. worked like a charm, we bleed it for so long, we had to stop lol, was still getting air bubbles!!!
thanks...
1 rant, our local oriellys charged me $40 bucks for the mighty vac!!!!!
thanks...
1 rant, our local oriellys charged me $40 bucks for the mighty vac!!!!!
07-07-2010, 03:35 PM
#76
Holy crap this is sweet. Thanks for bumping this tread because I've never heard of bleeding a clutch this way. I'll have to give it a try soon.
BTW, I have a vacuum pump I got from Harbor Freight that works great, and with one of those 20% coupons you get in pretty much every magazine it was like $16 or so. It pulls and holds a vacuum very well.
BTW, I have a vacuum pump I got from Harbor Freight that works great, and with one of those 20% coupons you get in pretty much every magazine it was like $16 or so. It pulls and holds a vacuum very well.
08-24-2010, 07:44 PM
#78
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How much air could be in the system ?The air just keeps on comming !
NO leaks and the system works great....BUT the air bubbles are still comming out at a fast pace.
Last edited by PSJ; 08-25-2010 at 08:37 AM.
08-26-2010, 10:49 PM
#79
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