Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Clutch install, now slips?

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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 08:37 AM
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Default Clutch Slave cylinder install, now slips?

I just read a post that was similar, but I wanted to get your guys take on this.
Have a RAM clutch installed.
Had to get the adjustable master to make it work.
The master is adjusted all the way out to push as much fluid as possible. It works fine. Well the slave bearing died and ended up replacing the slave and throwing in the shim they recommend. The pedal travel (clutch Release) went from the very bottom of the floor, to right up top. Perfect. Took a 700 mile trip and the car was a joy to drive.
Yesterday, I was driving to my parents house and gassed it from 1st to second and I thought my rear broke loose, but I was planted. Figured out it was my clutch. It was barely engaging. Pedal feel completely changed. It reminded me of the old issue with the drill mod. I did the drill mod long ago with the adjustable master cylinder (Mcleod). Now, the clutch pedal will need to go to the floor to get it out of gear, and need to be completely released to go into gear.
Threw a bleed on it for ten minutes, still nothing. Any advice? To me, it almost seems like the pressure plate still has pressure being appiled to it, as if the pedal is slightly pushed in or something. Very upsetting. Last thing I want to do is remove the tranny again, or pay for a new clutch. No smell, no other issues though. In first, it feels like it holds a lot better, but if I go into second or any other gear and give it some revs, it just shakes a sec, then the rpms raise. Input is greatly needed!

Last edited by Twister; Apr 23, 2006 at 03:44 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 10:33 AM
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Bump for me!
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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Post updated with more info. Need help.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 11:45 AM
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Default ram

did you find out yet what was wrong im having the same problem with the same clutch
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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Not yet. Dreading the worst.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 12:52 PM
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When you say 700 mile trip...Is that highway or city driving conditions. Try giving it a full 500 miles of city driving. Did you replace your flywheel, which one are you running?
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 01:32 PM
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These kind of problems are why I'm going to have a professional mechanic install my pimp clutch when I buy one. Too many problems to mess with for it to be worth the $300 you save having someone else do it.

Sorry for the issues man...I know what it's like to have an problem you can't resolve easily.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by zdawg28
When you say 700 mile trip...Is that highway or city driving conditions. Try giving it a full 500 miles of city driving. Did you replace your flywheel, which one are you running?

The clutch has about 25,000-30,000 miles on it. I just replaced the slave, didn't touch the clutch at all. What bothers me so much is the different in pedal pressure all of a sudden!
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 05:58 PM
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Lightbulb Well, since no one else has...

Since no one else has taken a stab at it...I'm going to give you some of my input...for the last couple of months (2), my car has been in the shop. A new clutch was put in....i got the car back and gave it back, constantly complaining that the clutch was slipping and they needed to fix it, because i was losing acceleration and i could feel the clutch pedal vibrate along with the shiftknob.

They drove the car several times and kept telling me that it felt fine and that it was a misfire problem, Not the clutch...i looked at them funny several times and kept egging on about the clutch. Eventually, I gave in and told them to fix the "Misfire" problem...Well low and behold, when i got my car back, I didn't have trouble with it anymore....I don't trust the shop anymore....but maybe they were right???

They ended up replacing all the Knock Sensors - 3 if I remember correctly.
It costed $270.24

Any Opinions?
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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I wish, I so so wish this was the issue. Two things that tell me that this is not the issue. One, I can do the 6th gear test. Actuall, I can do the first, second third fourth fith and sixth test. Same thing in 1st with the e brake on. Again though, thank you so much. I will watch the misfire light next time, but I am 99.9% sure this isn't the issue.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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readjust your master to as close to stock as possible,those adjustable masters have only so much adjustabilty in them
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:42 PM
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Right now, the master is adjusted all the way it will go out. This was the one thing I overlooked when I put the shim in to correct the issue. So, are you suggesting if I move the adjustable back to the factory (like) setting, it might help correct things? The other thing I was thinking, but I would look to someone that has knowledge on this, is it possible that the Master pushed too much fluid out? And maybe the TO fell off the slave? I am just grasping at straws now!
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 10:16 PM
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you can only move so much fluid from the master, you can't get 10 gallons of liquid out of a 5 gallon bucket, you can however over extend the piston in the master damaging it or the cylinder itself...if you have the pedal all the way out chances are the piston in the master isnt going back far enough to relieve pressure from the slave
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by oange ss
you can only move so much fluid from the master, you can't get 10 gallons of liquid out of a 5 gallon bucket, you can however over extend the piston in the master damaging it or the cylinder itself...if you have the pedal all the way out chances are the piston in the master isnt going back far enough to relieve pressure from the slave
This is making me feel better! I will give the pedal a look at tonight and report back!
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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Hey All. Need to up date. Check the pdeal throw. I shortened it up and brought the pedal down about an inch. Well, same thing. Clutch will engage at the floor and let out at the top of the pedal. I can drive the car, as long as I keep the RPMs below 3 K and the speed/ RPM proportional to the gear.
Can someone throw some logic at me. If my clutch has worn down (I have no problem replacing it if I have too) wouldn't the clutch pedal engagement point not change too much? The pedal feel is COMPLETELY different. I am running a RAM 422pp and a 6230 (I think this is the combo I have) PP. Again, the story is the car was running great after changing out the slave cylinder, then all of a sudden the pedal completely changed and the clutch slipped. Next, I have the adjustable McLeod master. Love the piece, but before I had the RAM shim, I had to have it all the way out (pedal was like 4 inches above the gas). I didn't move the pedal until today. Could I have blown out the slave? If so, why wouldn't hydro fluid be leaking. Again, as many of you can tell, I am really grasping at straw now. Can't drop too much money on the car, but I need it running. Any advice?
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