Manual Transmission FAQ - Look Here First!
04-04-2007, 09:23 PM
#21
Originally Posted by JD_Z28
Amber,
I was wondering what method do you recommend for bleeding the clutch?
I was wondering what method do you recommend for bleeding the clutch?
*I think thats everything*
I asked how long the shop thought it would take, they said 45-1hour. Just what you said.
Last edited by Ragtop 99; 04-06-2007 at 08:36 PM.
04-04-2007, 10:27 PM
#22
Originally Posted by 02NBMWS6
i just ordered my trans from you guys and i wanted to know, how many splines does the viper output shaft have?
trying to get my driveshaft slip yoke changed so i can be ready when the trans arrives
trying to get my driveshaft slip yoke changed so i can be ready when the trans arrives
I supply you with the yoke. Call me in the morning and if the trans hasn't left I will overnight the yoke to you so you can have that done. It is a 1350 ujoint. Call me before you do anything thought so it will save you money on that yoke.
Amber
04-04-2007, 10:30 PM
#23
Originally Posted by JD_Z28
But whats the routine they recommend.
That pretty much sums it up. Have someone in the car. Have someone under the car at the slave. Have someone keeping an eye on the resevoir. Fill the resevoir. Pump the pedal 5-10 times. Open the bleed screw. Let drain. Close bleeder screw. Pull up pedal. Check fluid in resevoir. Repeat for 2 full bottles. That should do it. Long and painful but very accurate.
Thanks,
Amber
04-05-2007, 11:25 AM
#24
What about a Motive power bleeder?
Amber
Last edited by Ragtop 99; 04-06-2007 at 08:38 PM.
04-05-2007, 03:52 PM
#25
So to replace the stock mainshaft with a viper mainshaft all you need is a 1350 Ujoint? Would the tail housing need to be machined to install the seal and bushing?
Amber
Last edited by Ragtop 99; 04-06-2007 at 08:39 PM.
04-11-2007, 08:10 PM
#26
ok my car has been sitting for about 2 weeks due to a broken driveshaft so i finally got it running and now i canot get into reverse and it is very diffucult to get in first , and the few times i have got it into reverse i push the clutch all the way down and it still moves??
Why are 1st and reverse so hard to select. If the vehicle is stationary the syncros don't give you an advantage like they do when the vehicle is moving and the input shaft is turning. If you still have enough clutch to get into 1st and get rolling the syncros will do their part after that and help to make your shifts smoother including down shifting back into 1st gear from second. You're in pretty good shape until you come to a stop sign or red lite in which case you'd better leave the trans in 1st gear and just keep the clutch pedal depressed until it's time to start rolling again. Once you do have to come out of gear and go back into neutral your problem will be staring you in the face all over again when it comes time to select 1st or reverse.
Last edited by Ragtop 99; 04-16-2007 at 03:15 PM.
04-18-2007, 09:15 PM
#27
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OK, I have an 02 T/A. 35K miles. After a full throttle run the clutch gets stuck to the floor. If I wait just a few seconds the pressure will build again and the pedal will come back up. It used to only happen after a few 1/4 mile passes now even a quick trip through the gears on the street renders the clutch useless - not even a hard launch. The clutch does not seem to be slipping and under normal driving feels fine. I figured it was the clutch so I have a new clutch ready to install. Do you think the clutch will fix the problem or do I need to replace the slave and master while I am in there?
04-19-2007, 01:21 AM
#28
If you mean the clutch PEDAL gets stuck to the floor when you say "the clutch gets stuck to the floor" you may have a mechanical bind if the clutch pedal returns home via a spring or the spring could be broken. If you don't use a spring your master, slave or even the pressure plate could be at fault. You need to determine if your clutch pedal has a return spring which I don't believe it has. Check for a mechanical bind in the pedal pivot point. The next easiest thing to check is the master since it is on the firewall. You can remove it and check for a bind in the master. If you find one replace it. If not you're going to have to inspect the slave and pressure plate. When you release pressure on the clutch pedal the springs in the pressure plate should force the hydraulic fluid back up into the master from the slave. If you have a mechanical bind in the system somewhere that is stronger than the springs in your pressure plate you will have the symptom you're describing. Now you have to find the bind before you can fix this problem.
06-15-2007, 09:57 PM
#29
If you honest to goodness know how to drive a stick,and had the clutch installed properly then 98% of the time you wont be posting about your clutch slipping.And this post isnt meant for you.There have been a ton of threads or posts in threads especially about peoples clutchs starting to slip and what not.Im not just saying people who start threads about it,in alot of those threads people have come out of the worrdwork saying their clutch started slipping,almost bandwagoning it seems,which im sure isnt the case but sure looks that way.If youve had a clutch start slipping and you dont know why or didnt expect it,this post was for you.
Alot of you need to realize a few things.When you slip a clutch or ride a clutch over and over again you add ALOT of heat.Heat kills clutchs and pressure plates and flywheels MUCH faster.Proper installation is key and so is proper driving.Everyone is quick to blame the clutch or the company,and it is true that every company has defects(ill get to that later),but at least half of those threads is either an install error or.....gasp....driver error.
As far as driving an M6 car
Rule number 1,DO NOT ride a clutch.I did not say dont slip a clutch.I said dont ride a clutch.Slipping a clutch to me is letting the clutch out most of the way and give it just enough gas to keep the rpms at ~1k/idle to keep it running ok,minimal gas used and not continuously applied.its more of a momentary action.Riding the clutch is using the gas while the clutch is kept in even a tad bit,like going very slow in bumper to bumper traffic having the keep the clutch partly in while still giving it gas more continuously.riding the clutch is harder to describe online but its more of a continuous clutch/throttle action or prolonged action whereas slipping is doing it quickly/shortly/less throttle.Did you know that when let out properly the factory clutch needs ZERO throttle to get the car into first and moving.Ive driven stock clutchs and aftermarket clutchs and every clutch ive driven has been fine when slipped,but has been terrible when ridden.you can slip a clutch and make it last,if you ride a clutch youre boned.Now ive heard people complain that they have to ride their clutch to leave there home or a parking spot or whatever.you do NOT have to ride it.if youre leaving a spot or your driveway,and i dont care how big of a cam you have you can leave with minimal riding,even if you have to go between neutral and reverse or neutral and first,etc.its ok to have the car in neutral and let it roll,even with the clutch pedal in as sometimes that will let the car roll more.
Another problem is downshifting or launching.if you cannot rev match,dont downshift and let the clutch do the work as that puts unnecessary strain on the clutch.if your downshifting to take off rev it up in neutral and drop gears and away you go.if youre coming to a light and have trouble downshifting just make sure you have enough speed and put it in neutral.it saves gas,less strain on parts,makes the car quieter,etc.If youve never seen anyone who really knows how to drive or launch a car go for a ride with them.Theres been plenty of threads on how to launch a stick.practice is good too,get it so youre not sitting there with the clutch pedal partically depressed more than you have to.another tip,do not rest your foot on the clutch pedal while driving as it can partially engage it just enough to cause friction and thus wear.
The company
there are tons and tons of aftermarket clutchs out there.choose a company you feel comfortable with and make sure you get a clutch for your needs and power level.IE if you have a street car and tend to be in alot of stop and go traffic or ride the clutch dont get a race oriented clutch.There is a clutch out there for everyones needs.If you have too much or too little clutch it might start slipping early or just be a PITA on the street.If you want a car that drives and sounds like stock dont get a Spec 5 as itll prolli have the infamous speak.PS.....aluminum flywheels are harder to drive on the street and more road course/auto x oriented.the weight savings isnt worth it in most cases and the hp difference is minimal despite what your friend told you.EVERY company has defects issues.Spec is the major complaint,but there have been threads with every other clutch company out there with issues.youre pushing your car harder than it was designed to from the factory so these companies try to make a product that will stand up to that,so of course there will be issues especially with the hp and traction people are doing today.Spec has the most clutches in Fbodys hands down so of course there will be more issues,its simply numbers.follow whatever the company tells you as far as install,including torque specs,compatible flywheels,bolts,breakin,driving style,hp level,etc.
My experience and install
Ive had a Spec 3 which took over 40000 miles of abuse both on and off the bottle.i was making 475ft lb's of torque on the bottle and we did everything youre not supposed to....ie spraying below the magical 3k mark,clutch dumps,nitrous burnouts,etc.We took it out of my car and put it in a car that made almost 700rwhp on a stock shortblock on the bottle.make sure you have it installed properly even if that means not doing it yourself.Use a good flywheel,even if that means not resurfacing the stock 1 to save a buck.Personally ive been a fan of the SFI approved ebay steel flywheels on ebay,theyre cheap and work well.i dont like spec flywheels,JMHO.Use a good master and slave cylinders(01+),some have done the drill mod or heat wrapped the tranny lines or balance everything to help,anything you can do to keep things cool or making sure everything is aligned properly will extend the life.Ive heard it from plenty of mechanics and racers.....use pilot bushings,NOT bearings as theres less wear on the input shaft.weve always used bushings on the local race shop without issues.use good tranny fluid,ie find out whats recommended for your app.i was told to use Synchromesh since i have a rebuilt tranny,and even though its expensive i put that in.There are guildlines from each company for a reason.
curtesy of blacktransam
My previos job i worked for a distributor of LUK clutches.. luk is an extremely large manufacturer of clutch parts and you might be surprised how many of your aftermarket clutches have there name stamped in them.. (hell not every one can have a foundry) anyways he told me they had an 16-18% return rate under there 1yr warrenty time.. and 2% of those returns were actual defects.. he said by all means there are defects.. BUT 98% of clutch issues are user or installer error.. wether it be one of those guys who thinks hes gods gift with a clutch pedal but really sucks or MR thrifty who cheaps out on good hydraulics..
chances are if you've gone through 1 or 2 clutches you or your installer or the hydraulics is the problem..
now i ran my OLD *** 2003 model spec 3 for almost 35k miles..it went through 2 trannys.. 2 head cam setups.. and more nitrous then most would ever use in a lifetime.. when finally one day i slammed third on a 200 shot and she started to slip and well 2nd was on its way out of my tranny AGAIN.. so we pulled it all apart.. i through another T56 in with nicks (ddnspider's) 40k mile spec 3.. it lasted another good 10k with the car seeing a 300 shot from time to time.. holding 698hp and 742 ftlbs of torque.. when the hydraulics started drinking fluid.. and soaked that disc in fluid.. and now i'm converting to an auto for better ET's..
Stevieturbo's perspective
Ive said it so many times here too. The USA seems to be the land of the faulty clutch...
Something I just dont believe can be true. A LOT of the cases of "faulty" clutches, are down to a faulty driver lol
Clutches do slip a little, but that doesnt mean you should slip them.
Your foot should be in 2 places when driving. Either fully depressed, or not at all.If its in between for anymore than a second at a time, under 99% of driving conditions, you are driving it wrong, and prematurely wearing out your clutch, even more so if you are revving the crap out of it at the same time..
Photos of damaged clutches prove this. Most have been fried to a crisp... why ???
A Tuners Insight(Slowhawk)
I hope everybody on this site reads this post before buying a clutch
Today we got 3 clutch problem calls and they were 3 different brand clutches. I had to explain (again) the purpose of the clutch.
On my personal cars I'm very happy to get 4k miles out of a clutch due the abuse I give them at the track.Not afraid of 6500rpm launches and slipping them the whole 60'
But most people think the clutch can take that while living 100k miles due to the fact it's a stronger clutch.
If there was one clutch that did it all they would sell a million of them. Fact is that a clutch is a wear item and a race/high hp clutch is not made to last as long as a stocker (in a stock vehicle).It is made to handle the power/abuse for shorter periods of time.
Conclusion
Assuming you have the right clutch and tranny setup in your car for your application and you drive it right you can make your clutch last 98% of the time.Talk to slowhawk or myself about the dredded spec 5 clutchs in street cars,no issues here.2000 Trans Zam was making 900rwhp on pump gas on a Mcleod and it was holding at the time.Theres been moderators and sponsors on here that post about their stick setups going 11's,10's,even 9's with no issues after many track passes all using different clutchs,some with stock trannys.They have the right parts installed properly and driven properly,thats why they last,and you can do the same.
Alot of you need to realize a few things.When you slip a clutch or ride a clutch over and over again you add ALOT of heat.Heat kills clutchs and pressure plates and flywheels MUCH faster.Proper installation is key and so is proper driving.Everyone is quick to blame the clutch or the company,and it is true that every company has defects(ill get to that later),but at least half of those threads is either an install error or.....gasp....driver error.
As far as driving an M6 car
Rule number 1,DO NOT ride a clutch.I did not say dont slip a clutch.I said dont ride a clutch.Slipping a clutch to me is letting the clutch out most of the way and give it just enough gas to keep the rpms at ~1k/idle to keep it running ok,minimal gas used and not continuously applied.its more of a momentary action.Riding the clutch is using the gas while the clutch is kept in even a tad bit,like going very slow in bumper to bumper traffic having the keep the clutch partly in while still giving it gas more continuously.riding the clutch is harder to describe online but its more of a continuous clutch/throttle action or prolonged action whereas slipping is doing it quickly/shortly/less throttle.Did you know that when let out properly the factory clutch needs ZERO throttle to get the car into first and moving.Ive driven stock clutchs and aftermarket clutchs and every clutch ive driven has been fine when slipped,but has been terrible when ridden.you can slip a clutch and make it last,if you ride a clutch youre boned.Now ive heard people complain that they have to ride their clutch to leave there home or a parking spot or whatever.you do NOT have to ride it.if youre leaving a spot or your driveway,and i dont care how big of a cam you have you can leave with minimal riding,even if you have to go between neutral and reverse or neutral and first,etc.its ok to have the car in neutral and let it roll,even with the clutch pedal in as sometimes that will let the car roll more.
Another problem is downshifting or launching.if you cannot rev match,dont downshift and let the clutch do the work as that puts unnecessary strain on the clutch.if your downshifting to take off rev it up in neutral and drop gears and away you go.if youre coming to a light and have trouble downshifting just make sure you have enough speed and put it in neutral.it saves gas,less strain on parts,makes the car quieter,etc.If youve never seen anyone who really knows how to drive or launch a car go for a ride with them.Theres been plenty of threads on how to launch a stick.practice is good too,get it so youre not sitting there with the clutch pedal partically depressed more than you have to.another tip,do not rest your foot on the clutch pedal while driving as it can partially engage it just enough to cause friction and thus wear.
The company
there are tons and tons of aftermarket clutchs out there.choose a company you feel comfortable with and make sure you get a clutch for your needs and power level.IE if you have a street car and tend to be in alot of stop and go traffic or ride the clutch dont get a race oriented clutch.There is a clutch out there for everyones needs.If you have too much or too little clutch it might start slipping early or just be a PITA on the street.If you want a car that drives and sounds like stock dont get a Spec 5 as itll prolli have the infamous speak.PS.....aluminum flywheels are harder to drive on the street and more road course/auto x oriented.the weight savings isnt worth it in most cases and the hp difference is minimal despite what your friend told you.EVERY company has defects issues.Spec is the major complaint,but there have been threads with every other clutch company out there with issues.youre pushing your car harder than it was designed to from the factory so these companies try to make a product that will stand up to that,so of course there will be issues especially with the hp and traction people are doing today.Spec has the most clutches in Fbodys hands down so of course there will be more issues,its simply numbers.follow whatever the company tells you as far as install,including torque specs,compatible flywheels,bolts,breakin,driving style,hp level,etc.
My experience and install
Ive had a Spec 3 which took over 40000 miles of abuse both on and off the bottle.i was making 475ft lb's of torque on the bottle and we did everything youre not supposed to....ie spraying below the magical 3k mark,clutch dumps,nitrous burnouts,etc.We took it out of my car and put it in a car that made almost 700rwhp on a stock shortblock on the bottle.make sure you have it installed properly even if that means not doing it yourself.Use a good flywheel,even if that means not resurfacing the stock 1 to save a buck.Personally ive been a fan of the SFI approved ebay steel flywheels on ebay,theyre cheap and work well.i dont like spec flywheels,JMHO.Use a good master and slave cylinders(01+),some have done the drill mod or heat wrapped the tranny lines or balance everything to help,anything you can do to keep things cool or making sure everything is aligned properly will extend the life.Ive heard it from plenty of mechanics and racers.....use pilot bushings,NOT bearings as theres less wear on the input shaft.weve always used bushings on the local race shop without issues.use good tranny fluid,ie find out whats recommended for your app.i was told to use Synchromesh since i have a rebuilt tranny,and even though its expensive i put that in.There are guildlines from each company for a reason.
curtesy of blacktransam
My previos job i worked for a distributor of LUK clutches.. luk is an extremely large manufacturer of clutch parts and you might be surprised how many of your aftermarket clutches have there name stamped in them.. (hell not every one can have a foundry) anyways he told me they had an 16-18% return rate under there 1yr warrenty time.. and 2% of those returns were actual defects.. he said by all means there are defects.. BUT 98% of clutch issues are user or installer error.. wether it be one of those guys who thinks hes gods gift with a clutch pedal but really sucks or MR thrifty who cheaps out on good hydraulics..
chances are if you've gone through 1 or 2 clutches you or your installer or the hydraulics is the problem..
now i ran my OLD *** 2003 model spec 3 for almost 35k miles..it went through 2 trannys.. 2 head cam setups.. and more nitrous then most would ever use in a lifetime.. when finally one day i slammed third on a 200 shot and she started to slip and well 2nd was on its way out of my tranny AGAIN.. so we pulled it all apart.. i through another T56 in with nicks (ddnspider's) 40k mile spec 3.. it lasted another good 10k with the car seeing a 300 shot from time to time.. holding 698hp and 742 ftlbs of torque.. when the hydraulics started drinking fluid.. and soaked that disc in fluid.. and now i'm converting to an auto for better ET's..
Stevieturbo's perspective
Ive said it so many times here too. The USA seems to be the land of the faulty clutch...
Something I just dont believe can be true. A LOT of the cases of "faulty" clutches, are down to a faulty driver lol
Clutches do slip a little, but that doesnt mean you should slip them.
Your foot should be in 2 places when driving. Either fully depressed, or not at all.If its in between for anymore than a second at a time, under 99% of driving conditions, you are driving it wrong, and prematurely wearing out your clutch, even more so if you are revving the crap out of it at the same time..
Photos of damaged clutches prove this. Most have been fried to a crisp... why ???
A Tuners Insight(Slowhawk)
I hope everybody on this site reads this post before buying a clutch
Today we got 3 clutch problem calls and they were 3 different brand clutches. I had to explain (again) the purpose of the clutch.
On my personal cars I'm very happy to get 4k miles out of a clutch due the abuse I give them at the track.Not afraid of 6500rpm launches and slipping them the whole 60'
But most people think the clutch can take that while living 100k miles due to the fact it's a stronger clutch.If there was one clutch that did it all they would sell a million of them. Fact is that a clutch is a wear item and a race/high hp clutch is not made to last as long as a stocker (in a stock vehicle).It is made to handle the power/abuse for shorter periods of time.
Conclusion
Assuming you have the right clutch and tranny setup in your car for your application and you drive it right you can make your clutch last 98% of the time.Talk to slowhawk or myself about the dredded spec 5 clutchs in street cars,no issues here.2000 Trans Zam was making 900rwhp on pump gas on a Mcleod and it was holding at the time.Theres been moderators and sponsors on here that post about their stick setups going 11's,10's,even 9's with no issues after many track passes all using different clutchs,some with stock trannys.They have the right parts installed properly and driven properly,thats why they last,and you can do the same.
Last edited by ddnspider; 05-05-2008 at 09:17 PM.
06-20-2007, 10:30 PM
#30
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All great info, but what about us LT1 guys? Isn't the system completely different? I'm hearing throwout bearing noise and need a new clutch, but I don't know what else I should tackle while I'm at it...
07-03-2007, 12:01 AM
#31
the clutch is pull style instead of push style, but the transmission itself is the same principal. maybe a different input shaft, i dont remember.
now whats the deal with adjustable mastercylinders, shimming the slave, and all that? whats problems/symptoms does it fix?
now whats the deal with adjustable mastercylinders, shimming the slave, and all that? whats problems/symptoms does it fix?
07-27-2007, 02:45 PM
#32
all i am asking is how much hp/tq does a 6speed T56 take? and if it is recommended to get a rebuild on a 56k T56...what would be needed for about 700whp...i don't know how they are built or what all goes into a really good tranny...am currently in iraq and would like to get as much info as i can so i can decide what to do if and when i get home...thanks again for your time
Sgt knight
Sgt knight
12-11-2007, 10:54 PM
#33
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My transmission will grind when shifting into first with any kind of speed(in neutral and light turns green), although, I can shift slowly and it will be fine. It also randomly grinds into fourth and sometimes the others.
Any ideas??
Any ideas??
12-11-2007, 11:04 PM
#35
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Just bought the car with 124k miles. I can sit with the clutch in but it all depends on the speed of the shift. Also I can shift fast into second and it wont grind while still at a standstill.
Also I plan on a syncromesh fluid drain/fillup, think itll help?
Also I plan on a syncromesh fluid drain/fillup, think itll help?
12-27-2007, 03:41 PM
#37
faulty sychros? i've got the t56 and i'm having problems with my 3rd gear. sometimes (maybe 1 time in 10) the car pops out of 3rd gear no matter what rmp i'm at. and half of the time it grinds and bitches at me when i shift to 3rd. also, it's harder than i think it should be to get into reverse and sometimes it grinds going into 1st with the clutch all the way down. i've been reading alot of posts and i think my problem is the sychronizers and i should rebuild it. i am broke as hell so i'm going to have to do this myself if it's going to get done. i've never seen the inside of a transmission, do you think this will be a problem (i fancy myself as being a fairly intelligent and mechanically inclined specimen)? if you think its more than i think i'm bargaining for right now, do you reccomend i just wait a while and skip 3rd gear in the mean time?
12-27-2007, 04:29 PM
#40
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here you go http://www.ttcautomotive.com/
also here is a good writeup http://ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1877
also here is a good writeup http://ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1877