Blown02Camaro

iTrader: (4)

Why do you say no to the viper kit?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I'm not sayin no to it..I just didn't use it.

Blown02Camaro

iTrader: (4)

O got ya

dwfronk

9. MANUAL TRANSMISSION DRIVING TIPS ( for the newbie)

1) Do not rest your foot on the clutch pedal. Pressure applied to the clutch pedal can cause the clutch to slip and reduce the service life of the clutch release bearing.

2) Do not use the clutch to hold the vehicle on a hill. Use the vehicles brakes. Holding the vehicle on a hill with the clutch causes prolonged slipping and this will wear out the clutch prematurely.

3) Shift into neutral upon approaching stops. If traffic and road conditions permit, consider shifting into neutral and hold the vehicle with the brakes at longer interval traffic lights. When the light changes select first gear and drive away.

4) Downshifting as braking. Downshifting can be used to reduce the speed of the vehicle; however, excessive or aggressive use of downshifting can increase the wear on the clutch. Consider using the brakes and shift into a lower gear to match engine RPM’s and road speed.

5) Do not lug the engine and drivetrain. Lugging is driving in a higher gear (5th or 6th for example) when road speed requires a lower gear to correctly match the engine RPM’s to the road speed. The use of a higher gear than the engine speed and road speed requires is called lugging and creates unnecessary strains on the engine, clutch and transmission.

6) Pickup trucks must not exceed the vehicles gross vehicle weight rating. Carrying or towing excessive loads will reduce the clutch service life. The GVWR can be found on the drivers side door or pillar on the certification label.

7) Starting loaded pickup trucks in motion. If equipped with a creeper gear transmission, the lowest gear should always be used to start the truck from a standing start when loaded. Using the correct gear to start the truck moving reduces wear on the clutch.

8) Refer to your owner’s manual. Your owner’s manual will contain any required adjustment or scheduled service requirements.

Clutches, when properly used, will provide a long and trouble free service life with a minimum amount of maintenance or driver attention.

Use caution and sound judgment when driving any vehicle![/QUOTE]

Ok I think it is a great idea to post tips for the newbie but make them Good tips these are stupid tips that has nothing to do with a newbie. I.E. #6. A newbie should NOT be pulling a load in a strait shift because they do NOT have the exp. give some tips that would help the NEWBIE.

Swt SS

I have a t-5 question. I have a '89 w/c t-5 tranny in my 88 mcss, I want to bolt it up to a '01 5.3L engine. with the bellhousing be a direct bolt on to it? will I still be able to use the stock 5.3L starter? if not, want parts would I need to get or change out to make this t-5 work?...any help/sugesstions appreciated...tks

superchomper2003

iTrader: (1)

I have a question myself. I just purchased a very nice 01 ws6 about a week ago. Basically just has some bolts on car and 4.11 rear gears. Anyways it has a stg 2 monster clutch in it and a short throw shifter. Driving around normally it shifts into all gears with no problem but if I hammer down on it I cant ever get it to hit third. Its like i just slam the stick into where third is supposed to be but it wont go. I have read a lot of the forum and gathered that it could be a syncro problem but also that the drill mod may fix this problem. Am I understanding this correct? I really don't have the cash for a rebuild so I hope the drill mod would work. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance for the help!

ItalianZ28Stallion

iTrader: (3)

nice write up

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Drill mod elminates a restriction that reduces fluid flow during clutch engagement NOT during release which is when gears are being shifted and when your having your problem. Drill mod won't help you. If you know the inside of a manual trans you know there is a large ring that is moved by a shifter fork. The fork can move in two directions to select one of two gears, but between the ring and the gear you want to select is the syncro. The syncro is sort of a caged roller bearing assembly with springs in it for each roller. When you move the shift lever the lever moves a rod which has the shift fork attached to it. Depending on which way you slide the shift lever(left or right) determines which rod gets moved(there is move than one rod) and then depending whether you move he shift lever fore or aft determines and gear that is selected. It the vehicle is moving the gear you are currently in is moving too. You have to match the speed of the gear you want to go into with the speed of the gear you are currently in to make a smooth transition to the next gear. When you are selecting the next gear of choice the syncro slowly strarts squeeze the next gear forcing it to start to spin faster and faster until it is spinning at the same speed as the gear you just exited from. Now the gear speeds match and you make a smooth shift. You didn't describe grind of gears. You said lack of engagement. This sounds like a fitment issue. This sound complicated and looks intimidating on the inside of the transmission case until you understand the process. If you can understand how one gear cluster works you'll know all the others too. You have to pull the trans and look on the inside with the case split open. If you don't know what you're doing I wouldn't recommend you do this as an experiment. Once everything is open you can manually select different gears as you spin the input shaft. Watch the rods move the different shift forks. How do they "feel"? Is there any binding? What about the syncros? Are they moving smoothly? As the syncros begin to move do you see the selected gears also start to come up to speed? Everything must be smooth and free. You can't have any binding or stiff points in the movement of the rods, forks, rings, syncros, gears or shafts. We didn't even talk about detents. The only thing you can do right now short of a tear down is to drain the fluid and put in synthetic. You can sit there and slowly shift the trans(engine off/clutch disengaged). How does it feel. Is gear selection smooth? Does each gear selected "feel" like the one before it? Are there any glitches? Do you "feel" resistance at a certain point in the shift lever travel? Maybe the shift linkage is worn and you don't have enough "travel" to select the gear you want? You have to answer these questions to know whether it's time for a tear down.

ColoWs6

Bought me a very nice 02 ws6 a few months ago. 6speed and 40k. The other day it started grinding when I try to put into 1st. Reverse is fine and all other gears are too. Also when I let out the clutch and not giving it gas to bring the revs around 2k it jerks. Is the a sign of the clutch going out, or did the previous owner install a different clutch. Thanks for any insight.

ColoWs6

Oh and also if I take me time and slowly put into 1st gear it will slide in without grinding

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

The clutch has to be fully released to prevent grinding especally in first. It sounds more like driver error than a clutch problem. If you have to ask this question you need more seat time.

ColoWs6

Wow so quick to judge me. Been driving manuals for a while. And this just started to.
*update. Changed tranny fluid and flushed out clutch fluid, and still no difference

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

OK, here's how to tell a worn out clutch disc. Find a steep long hill(mountain). Build speed as you approach the hill. As you begin to climb instead of down shifting(for extra climbing torque)up shift instead. Now watch engine speed AND RPM. Of course the engine is going to lug, but you're not worried about that for the moment. You watch RPM and vehicle speed. They should be in about lock step. If the RPM begins to out pace the vehicle speed the clutch disc is worn down to where the pressure plate can no longer keep it clamped tightly against the flywheel. New dise needed. If the RPM and vehicle speed move together the clutch is OK. Changing fluids is a good idea, but they don't make up for a worn clutch disc or internal gear issues. Also, it is NOT a sign of a worn clutch if the car jerks when you let out the clutch WITHOUT applying some gas. You are lugging the engine when you do this and the engine doesn't like that so it jerks. A little gas pedal during the launch will provide the added torque needed to get the vehicle moving from a dead stop.

ColoWs6

Cool I'll check it out next time I'm in the car, just never had a car require so much throttle to take off, like I said around 2k to get a smooth take off. But if it isn't the clutch disc causing the grinding what else could it be? This is at a stop with the pedal to the floor. But most of the time if I slowly ease it into gear it won't grind and slips in eventually.. This is my main concern. The jerking has done that since I bought the car, the grinding just started.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

First of all who lets the clutch out on a Corvetter at 2K RPM? Even the Little Old Lady From Pasadena launched harder than that. PLEASE! When you disengage the clutch the trans and engine are no longer married. They have to be divorced. A trial seperation will result in gear grinding because the input shaft of the trans is still turning even though it is just a small amount, but the output shaft is stopped because the vehicle isn't moving. That's a problem for syncronization. Some shafts turning and others not. Gears don't like that. You want the input shaft to be stopped when the vehichle is stopped(output shaft not turning) so you can get into 1st gear without grinding. If the clutch disc is not fully disengaged meaning the input shaft is spinning you'll get some grinding going into first. Why aren't you disengaging FULLY? You probably have a concentric throw out. Is it traveling far enough to pull the pressure plate back all the way? Do you have air in the slave system? Do you have a problem with the pressure plate? You can pull the inspection cover and have someone depress the clutch pedal as you watch the throw out. You might be able to spoke something, but the trans has to come out on a concentric system regardless. It not a big deal.

ColoWs6

See everyone is mis understanding. The car is completely stopped. Going from neutral to first, with the clutch on the floor, it grinds. If I slowly and I mean slowly and gently push it into first its mostly ok. Other than that it will grind. That's all I'm concerned about. Never mind though I'll just figure it out, nobody has really been much help and just like to talk chit.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

If you can figure it out on your own why bother to ask for help. Maybe you just don't understand the explaination. It the car is stopped just say the car is stopped. If the car is stopped it is even MORE IMPORTANT that the clutch disengage the tranmission from the engine than when it is moving and the syncros can do their job. When you're stopped and gears are not moving the syncros can't help you. This means there must be an airgap between the friction disc and the pressure plate and flywheel. Without that the pressure plate is going to spin somewhat and you're going to get grinding going into first gear. You need to find out why your clutch isn't being fully disengaged. The concentric slave is most suspect, but the master could cause you to have reduced travel of the throwout bearing. The pressure plate is also on the short list of suspects. Of those the master is the easiest to change since the trans doesn't have to come out to change it, but for the other two it does.

777

iTrader: (21)

If it's a disengagement problem you should be able to tell by pressing in the clutch and revving the car to about 4k. If it's not disengaging the car should move forward some (make sure you are on level ground)

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I think his clutch is disengaging, but not fully. That's not enough purchase to get the car moving from a standing start even at 4K RPM, but it may be enough to cause him difficulty getting into 1st gear smoothly.

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

if you hold the clutch in for a couple seconds and it still grinds, the clutch is not releasing all the way. check for a leaking slave or air first. i'd also be looking at my engine oil level and be looking for a rear main leak. engine oil (or clutch fluid) will make the disc swell and make it grabby. thats a long shot though, as i've never seen that on a 4th gen f-car (idk where 'Corvetter' came from??) bad enough to swell the disc. the answer to the questions in post 89 is no to both. the last thing a shot clutch disc with do is cause a grind, and an aftermarket piece wont be working good for the longest time and then suddenly cause this. if holding the clutch in for a few seconds does let it go into gear, that means the input shaft is eventually spinning down like its supposed to and stopping, so the grind is due to an internal deal like the synchro cones or teeth. what suckss is the first scenario can lead to the second, so u cant be 100% sure even if you do find a clutch issue that fixing it will kill the symptom. u may still have to go into the tranny. to get some good idea positively, the trans is going to have to come out either way in the end unless you find a leak in the M/C or line itself...hope that helps