proper method for install/bleed of hydraulics
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From: Palos Hills, IL
proper method for install/bleed of hydraulics from bolting to the trans, to installing the the steel braded line, to bleeding. I have a feeling that something may be leaking so i am looking for specifics as there is no fluid drip. I think it might be the bleeder screw or soemthign cuz of me. Anywho.... Steps 1-XX When to have the bleeder open, closed etc.
I need everything, time, tools, any advice that can be given. I greatly appreciate the help as i have been trying this now for the 3rd/4th time. thanks fellas
Adam
I need everything, time, tools, any advice that can be given. I greatly appreciate the help as i have been trying this now for the 3rd/4th time. thanks fellas
Adam
Hello,
Sorry to hear of the frustration. But without a leak of hydraulic fluid, there probably isn't a leak in the system--only air. Was the Master or Slave cylinder replaced? When you refer to the "steel braided line" are you referring to the Master to Slave connecting line or to a remote bleeder line such as the one I offer?
As far a bleeding procedure, this is what I recommend based upon many successful occassions. It will work for any system regardless of whether it has a remote bleeder on it. The remote bleeder is designed to just make the job a lot easier.
**Make sure the reservoir is full and the cap is off during the procedure. It is best to remove the old fluid with a $1.79 turkey baster from Kmart. Refill with new fluid.
**Have a helper operate the clutch pedal;
**Crack the bleeder valve open, and then slowly and evenly push the pedal to the floor, and hold it. Catch the fluid in a cup or glass jar if you have the remote or in a rag if no remote.
**Close bleeder valve, slowly bring pedal back to the top, repeat three or four times and test the feel of the pedal.
**Keep Master Cylinder (MC) full. Don’t let it go dry or you’ll have to start from scratch.
**Upon completion, close bleeder, fill MC, place rubber insert into the MC reservoir, close MC cap Finished!!
Let us know how this procedure may differ from what you're doing.
Regards
Steve
Sorry to hear of the frustration. But without a leak of hydraulic fluid, there probably isn't a leak in the system--only air. Was the Master or Slave cylinder replaced? When you refer to the "steel braided line" are you referring to the Master to Slave connecting line or to a remote bleeder line such as the one I offer?
As far a bleeding procedure, this is what I recommend based upon many successful occassions. It will work for any system regardless of whether it has a remote bleeder on it. The remote bleeder is designed to just make the job a lot easier.
**Make sure the reservoir is full and the cap is off during the procedure. It is best to remove the old fluid with a $1.79 turkey baster from Kmart. Refill with new fluid.
**Have a helper operate the clutch pedal;
**Crack the bleeder valve open, and then slowly and evenly push the pedal to the floor, and hold it. Catch the fluid in a cup or glass jar if you have the remote or in a rag if no remote.
**Close bleeder valve, slowly bring pedal back to the top, repeat three or four times and test the feel of the pedal.
**Keep Master Cylinder (MC) full. Don’t let it go dry or you’ll have to start from scratch.
**Upon completion, close bleeder, fill MC, place rubber insert into the MC reservoir, close MC cap Finished!!
Let us know how this procedure may differ from what you're doing.
Regards
Steve
Last edited by steve-d; May 22, 2006 at 09:43 AM.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
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From: Palos Hills, IL
the steel braided line from the master to the slave is what i am talking about.
So crack bleeder open, connect, push pedal down and then close it, pump, open, press, close?
So crack bleeder open, connect, push pedal down and then close it, pump, open, press, close?
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: NY
Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
the steel braided line from the master to the slave is what i am talking about.
So crack bleeder open, connect, push pedal down and then close it, pump, open, press, close?
So crack bleeder open, connect, push pedal down and then close it, pump, open, press, close?
1. Connect line from master to slave.
2. Make sure someone is on reservoir duty to make sure it always has fluid in it, constantly filling it throughout the bleed process.
3. Have someone pump the clutch up and down a few times to build some pressure, then have that person hold the clutch to the floor applying constant pressure.
4. With the Clutch Pumper's foot all the way to the floor, now is the time to crack the bleeder, but only crack it for a second and then close the bleeder.
5. Clutch Pumper can now release clutch pedal (may have to pull it up from the floor, this is normal) and pump it several times again to build up pressure. Make sure your man on reservoir duty is carefully watching and maintaining fluid levels in the reservoir.
So in short, it's: Pump, Hold to Floor, Crack, Close, Release. Repeat several times (it can take quite a few times until proper clutch pedal feel returns.
Watch that reservoir fluid or you will suck even more air into the system than you had before. Very important.
Good Luck brudda. I just went through this yesterday and all is well.
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: NY
Originally Posted by keliente
It's at the top of the page in the FAQ and that would have been too easy. 
By the way.. Nice Z!!! Silver would have been my second choice if I didn't go black.
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Originally Posted by Keysplayr
It takes almost as much energy to rank on the guy as to just tell him what to do. Don't be a forum snob, and I mean that with luv.....
By the way.. Nice Z!!! Silver would have been my second choice if I didn't go black.
By the way.. Nice Z!!! Silver would have been my second choice if I didn't go black.
The car is actually pewter not silver.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 143
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From: NY
Originally Posted by keliente
It's moreso the notion that people can save time by clicking the FAQ instead of waiting for replies. But anyway.
The car is actually pewter not silver.
The car is actually pewter not silver.
I was going to say gunmetal, but it was too light. Could not make my brain come up with the word pewter at the time.
Looks really good, especially with the black rims. 