HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Any reason to put supports under the engine oill pan before removing the tranny? Seems like a lot of pressure on the motor mounts once the crossmember is removed. Nice write up...thanks!

KCRickSS

Sorry - I missed this questions earlier. If you get a new master I think it comes "pre-bled". But doing the drill mod will require that you rebleed it. If you need to bleed it there are good writeups in the forum section of ls2.com - there is a sticky at the top of the manual tranny section with FAQ info including bleeding methods. http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=197695

I think there are several methods to bleed without removing the master. First, the old fashioned way of using the slave bleeder valve. Can be tedious and a PITA but will work. You can also try to use a Mityvac from the clutch resevior. I've done this method before and it works pretty well (this is how I checked it earlier this week after being worried that it had some air in it). You just attach the MityVac hose to the bottom of the resevior and pump it up (be sure you have some fluid in the tube first). Pump the clutch pedal a few times until you don't see any bubbles. Or you can go with one of the 2 methods listed on LS2.com - "Buschman's method"and the "Ramos method" which are both similar.

We may be talking about different shims...I removed the shim between the slave and tranny that the Spec required. I didn't touch the slave TO bearing, spring or any other part of the slave (including the "stock" shim).

The first pic shows the shim I removed and what it looked like before taking it off - it is the green piece (Thanks to whomever I stole this pic from - I can't find the original poster). The second picture is the slave parts from the installuniversity clutch install writeup. It has the arrow pointing to the "stock" shim. The third pic, also from installuniversity has an arrow pointing to the pilot bearing but also shows where the stock shim is located - on the other side of the slave (the side pointing at the pressure plate springs, not the tranny). If you read the installuniversity writeup in that section you'll read the description for dealing with TO bearing and shims which requires messing with the slave. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this but I'm pretty sure we're talking about different things.

That is a good point that is mentioned on one of the writeups - you really should support the motor after the tranny is pulled, which I failed to mention.

rgaynor85

honestly im confused , so when i drop my tranny and put in this new clutch do i just leave everything how it was? and put it back together

KGSloan

so, has anybody really beat on this ls7 clutch yet with slicks on???

curious how it did

KCRickSS

From what I understand if you currently have the stock setup then you should be fine leaving everything as is in regards to the slave. Since you driving a 2001 then you already have the upgraded hydraulics so the slave and master should be OK.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Well, It depends on the milage and condition of your slave. I replaced the slave on my 2002 car cause it was over 100K miles. It was in good condition but since lately the pedal had been sticking to the floor at high rpm, i fiured id better change it out while i was in there.

HRJ

iTrader: (2)

One thing I've noticed on my LS7 clutch that makes it feel like the stock unit, besides the overall pedal stiffness, is that the pedal effort increases up to the point of dis-engagement, then once past that point, it softens up. Just like the stock units. On the Spec clutch equipped cars that Ive driven, the pedal effort is the same all the way through the range of pedal travel. The LS7 unit is easier to modulate....being easier to "feel" the release point through your foot.

rgaynor85

yes im completely stock now but my pedal sticks to the floorat hgh rpms so im changing the slave also. figure while im in there do it up with the ls7

sdbrown84

iTrader: (22)

Concerning the master replacement on cars:

I needed a new master and slave with my LS7 swap. Car has 90K miles and started to leak from the master after the LS7 clutch package. Replaced with a new 2001+ model from GM. Shop did all the installs. Probably a good idea to replace your master while you are swapping to this clutch if you have high miles or a 98-2000 car.

97MysticZ

iTrader: (16)

I know the tranny has to be removed to replace the slave cylinder, but you can put in a new master cylinder with the tranny still installed can't you??

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Yes, you can. You will need to quick disconnect the hose from the tranny and pull the master and hose out from the top.

KCRickSS

yep...check out the drill mod instructions on www.installuniversity.com for details on getting everything out.