LS7 clutch installed this weekend
06-13-2006, 12:34 AM
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LS7 clutch installed this weekend - pics added I installed my LS7 clutch installed this weekend - got it from Fred Beans along with the Pilot Bearing. My 2000 already had the upgraded master and slave hydraulics and drill mod. It was a first time clutch install for me and it went about as smooth as I could expect. Took me and a buddy about 6-7 hours to do it and we took our time - no major suprises thanks to all of the good info out there about what to expect.
I'm still breaking it in and have only 60 miles so far. A couple of observations: right now is it engages RIGHT off the floor just as everyone reported. Since the Spec engaged way at the top of the pedal it is very odd training myself to deal with it engaging so low but I'm getting used to it. The 4.11's help out as I can just release slow and move without bogging anyway. The other oddity is how much more like stock it is compared to the Spec. The Spec had trained my left leg to press harder than I have to now, so it feels very light in comparison.
I took some install pics that I just added. Anxious to get some miles and pound on it a bit.
I'm still breaking it in and have only 60 miles so far. A couple of observations: right now is it engages RIGHT off the floor just as everyone reported. Since the Spec engaged way at the top of the pedal it is very odd training myself to deal with it engaging so low but I'm getting used to it. The 4.11's help out as I can just release slow and move without bogging anyway. The other oddity is how much more like stock it is compared to the Spec. The Spec had trained my left leg to press harder than I have to now, so it feels very light in comparison.
I took some install pics that I just added. Anxious to get some miles and pound on it a bit.
Last edited by KCRickSS; 06-14-2006 at 12:43 AM.
06-13-2006, 12:50 AM
#2
sweet. what spec did you have before? i had the spec 3 and it literally fell apart after 6,000 miles. (total POS) and it engauged just like yours did...way at the top of the pedal....i just ordered an LS7 clutch and the LS2 flywheel...im very anxious to get it back together. my best friends dad owns a chevy dealership, and i've drove 2 different C6 Zo6's...so i kinda know what to expect from the clutch (and damn are those Zo6's nice!!) hope you get a lot of pleasure from the new clutch! i know my spec was a POS and chattered like hell!
06-13-2006, 01:30 AM
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I had a Spec Stage 3 ceramic...it chattered like an SOB too up until it started slipping on me. It only lasted me 18K - I wasn't sure what to expect as far as life but really had hoped for a lot longer than what I got out of it.
Good luck with yours! I'll update after I get mine broken in.
Good luck with yours! I'll update after I get mine broken in.
06-13-2006, 08:44 AM
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Driving to work this AM and had to struggle to get into gear at various times on the way in. I have a very short (5-10 mile), all city drive to work but it was making me nervous that the pedal is not going up like I'm hoping. During my previous break-in drives I noticed that it seemed to get better as I drove more, but I didn't really get to find out this AM (didn't wake up early enough to drive extra miles).
I never pulled the hydraulics on the install, just let the slave hang and left it all connected. I guess I might try to MightyVac later today but I don't think that should be the problem.
I never pulled the hydraulics on the install, just let the slave hang and left it all connected. I guess I might try to MightyVac later today but I don't think that should be the problem.
06-13-2006, 10:47 PM
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After driving all day I think all is well. I got about 60 miles done today (total of about 110 miles now) and I can tell that the pedal has begun to move a TINY bit up. No problems moving into gears but I have been grannying it since this AM.
I also checked the hyrdaulics with the Mityvac and got no air, so that seems fine. PICS COMING!
I also checked the hyrdaulics with the Mityvac and got no air, so that seems fine. PICS COMING!
06-13-2006, 11:29 PM
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Here are some pictures. First, the clutch and bearing as ordered from Fred Beans. Go to www.fredbeansgmparts.com - click "Our Catalogs" and enter the following part numbers:
"LS7Clutchkit" with the Chevy/Geo "make". (Flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate)
I also ordered the pilot bearing: 14061685
Probably should have got the 6 pressure plate bolts too but didn't. Part number 12561465.
The clutch kit and Pilot bearing cost me $528.48 delivered to my door.
YOU WILL ALSO need a standard Camaro alignment tool. I got one for $2 from my local Parts America, P/N: 14523.
more coming...
"LS7Clutchkit" with the Chevy/Geo "make". (Flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate)
I also ordered the pilot bearing: 14061685
Probably should have got the 6 pressure plate bolts too but didn't. Part number 12561465.
The clutch kit and Pilot bearing cost me $528.48 delivered to my door.
YOU WILL ALSO need a standard Camaro alignment tool. I got one for $2 from my local Parts America, P/N: 14523.
more coming...
06-13-2006, 11:50 PM
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Here is some more prep info. I used a "blind hole puller" from the local Autozone. It is part number: OEM 27128. This tool is PERFECT for pulling the pilot bearing and literally took me 5 minutes or less to pull it. The old pilot looked to be in good shape but I pulled it anyway.
I also used the clutch swap guide at www.installuniversity.com as a general guide to help with the necessary steps.
Next up...install pics.
I also used the clutch swap guide at www.installuniversity.com as a general guide to help with the necessary steps.
Next up...install pics.
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06-14-2006, 12:03 AM
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First group of install pics...
First...up, up and away. We lifted it as high as the jack stands would get it. That is my buddy Travis on the ground getting things situated while I "supervised".
Next, shifter removal. Notice the parking brake straight up (installuniversity also describes this). Shifter removed (but not cleaned up yet).
Next, removed the drive shaft. Notice my nice NEW 9" with the 1350 yoke...still waiting to pound on it as my clutch failed before the rear was broke in.
Not pictured: removal of the exhaust mount, cross member, and torque arm mount.
Also not pictured, the removal of the tranny and bell housing bolts. It seemed like it would be VERY difficult but we used a bunch of extensions and hit the top bolts from straight back by where the tranny ends towards the rear of the car - not as bad as it seems.
We also just used a regular floor jack to hold the tranny. I wish I had bought a tranny jack attachement for the floor jack - I priced them at about $50-60 but never got around to buying one. It would probably have been well worth it to be able to stabilize and adjust the angle of the tranny easier. Obviously a tranny jack would be best.
First...up, up and away. We lifted it as high as the jack stands would get it. That is my buddy Travis on the ground getting things situated while I "supervised".
Next, shifter removal. Notice the parking brake straight up (installuniversity also describes this). Shifter removed (but not cleaned up yet).
Next, removed the drive shaft. Notice my nice NEW 9" with the 1350 yoke...still waiting to pound on it as my clutch failed before the rear was broke in.
Not pictured: removal of the exhaust mount, cross member, and torque arm mount.
Also not pictured, the removal of the tranny and bell housing bolts. It seemed like it would be VERY difficult but we used a bunch of extensions and hit the top bolts from straight back by where the tranny ends towards the rear of the car - not as bad as it seems.
We also just used a regular floor jack to hold the tranny. I wish I had bought a tranny jack attachement for the floor jack - I priced them at about $50-60 but never got around to buying one. It would probably have been well worth it to be able to stabilize and adjust the angle of the tranny easier. Obviously a tranny jack would be best.
Last edited by KCRickSS; 06-14-2006 at 12:09 AM.
06-14-2006, 12:15 AM
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Next group of install pics...
After the tranny was loose we removed the 2 10mm bolts holding the slave. I had already replaced mine with the newer 2001+ version (FYI - the new one is stamped with a "16" and the older version has an "8" on it). Notice the picture where we let it just hang loose. This avoids disconnecting the hydraulics and then having to bleed the system again.
Removed the tranny and then the bell housing and you can see the flywheel in this pic still mounted. Got some decent heat spots on it.
Last pic shows all of the old clutch removed as well as the Pilot bearing - get that blind hole puller it that baby is a breeze to pull out!
After the tranny was loose we removed the 2 10mm bolts holding the slave. I had already replaced mine with the newer 2001+ version (FYI - the new one is stamped with a "16" and the older version has an "8" on it). Notice the picture where we let it just hang loose. This avoids disconnecting the hydraulics and then having to bleed the system again.
Removed the tranny and then the bell housing and you can see the flywheel in this pic still mounted. Got some decent heat spots on it.
Last pic shows all of the old clutch removed as well as the Pilot bearing - get that blind hole puller it that baby is a breeze to pull out!
06-14-2006, 12:21 AM
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Last group of pics...ran out of steam with the camera.
Next 2 pics show the removed Spec Stage 3 Ceramic flywheel, PP, and disk. Notice the inside of the disk is very worn down which was causing the slip. I don't think it was going to last much longer! In fact it started slipping much worse on my drive over to pull it out, so I was happy I didn't wait any longer.
Third pic shows the blind hole puller with the Pilot Bearing still attached. As I mentioned, it looked OK but I figure it is a good idea to slap a new one in there while I had the chance.
Final pic - the new clutch all ready to go!
Next 2 pics show the removed Spec Stage 3 Ceramic flywheel, PP, and disk. Notice the inside of the disk is very worn down which was causing the slip. I don't think it was going to last much longer! In fact it started slipping much worse on my drive over to pull it out, so I was happy I didn't wait any longer.
Third pic shows the blind hole puller with the Pilot Bearing still attached. As I mentioned, it looked OK but I figure it is a good idea to slap a new one in there while I had the chance.
Final pic - the new clutch all ready to go!
06-14-2006, 12:34 AM
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I also went ahead and drained my tranny while it was out of the car. I have done it once already so it looked VERY clean (Travis was giving me crap for doing it but again, it was just too easy to pass up). I filled it back up after we got everything reinstalled except the shifter - make sure the car is level and you can just fill her up from the shifter itself - 4 quarts fills it up and I just used standard Dexron III ATF.
One note about reinstallation of the tranny -- don't waste your time trying to start ALL of the bolts before tightening them. You should be able to line things up and start the bottom 4 or 5 bolts. Tighten them all up and the top bolts will then be ready to bolt. You can waste a lot of effort/frustration trying to get them started.
Also, the torque arm can be moved around by putting another jack under the rear and lifting/lowering it to line up the front of the torque arm to the bracket.
My resources for installation were:
- THIS SITE!
- the other large LSx board (ahem...not LS1 but the other one)
- http://www.installuniversity.com (McCleod clutch swap write-up)
- http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/clutch.html
And that is all I got....hope that helpful to someone out there!
One note about reinstallation of the tranny -- don't waste your time trying to start ALL of the bolts before tightening them. You should be able to line things up and start the bottom 4 or 5 bolts. Tighten them all up and the top bolts will then be ready to bolt. You can waste a lot of effort/frustration trying to get them started.
Also, the torque arm can be moved around by putting another jack under the rear and lifting/lowering it to line up the front of the torque arm to the bracket.
My resources for installation were:
- THIS SITE!
- the other large LSx board (ahem...not LS1 but the other one)
- http://www.installuniversity.com (McCleod clutch swap write-up)
- http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/clutch.html
And that is all I got....hope that helpful to someone out there!
06-14-2006, 12:18 PM
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the pedal will come up more after some more miles but im wondeirng did u have to change the shim from stock for the ls7/ls2 combo or did u bolt it right on with no issues, and where does the pilot bearing go/what is it on. ive never done a clutch and am preparing to do it but i wanna know what im goin at and where before i dig into it
06-14-2006, 12:24 PM
#14
Originally Posted by rgaynor85
the pedal will come up more after some more miles but im wondeirng did u have to change the shim from stock for the ls7/ls2 combo or did u bolt it right on with no issues, and where does the pilot bearing go/what is it on. ive never done a clutch and am preparing to do it but i wanna know what im goin at and where before i dig into it
06-14-2006, 12:25 PM
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congrats on the install...Your gonna love it..I have around 9K miles on mine now and ABSOLUTELY LOVE it..grabs great, feels like stock. I also had a spec stage 3 and mone took a dump after about 10K miles..Congrats on the clutch like i said..and have fun.
06-14-2006, 01:15 PM
#16
KC Nice Install and Great info on part #s and tips. I'm tackling my install this weekend. And I wish I had a helper for the complete install. I may get a friend but prolly wont want to help from start to finish. I'm goin to gather the remaining install items and if I get stuck somewhere with the install I hope you dont mind if I ask ya for some advice.
However I do have to replace my slave, remind me what are the steps to bleed the clutch hydraulics without removal of the master?
Thanx
However I do have to replace my slave, remind me what are the steps to bleed the clutch hydraulics without removal of the master?
Thanx
06-14-2006, 01:35 PM
#18
autozone had a pilot bearing remover tool that screws on to the end of a slide hammer. It was similar to those tools, kind of a 2 jaw inner diameter puller. It didnt fit at first until i destroyed the old bearing and knocked all the needles out of it. Then the puller got it out in maybe 5 slides.
06-14-2006, 10:49 PM
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Thanks for all the positive comments! More miles today and it keeps getting better...still counting down with about 320 left.
This is exactly right...the shim was installed with the Spec 3 and I just removed it completely and then reattached the slave without it installed. And the pilot is the last thing left after you remove all the rest. BTW, I've read that you should NOT do the "wet toilet paper method" for removing the pilot bearing (if you don't know what it is I won't tell you!). Apparently there is a seal behind the bearing and you don't want to cause more problems. Just get that blind hole puller (or equivolent) and it is cake to remove.
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
No shim, and the pilot bearing needs to be pulled out of the center of the back of the crank.