94 T56 hydraulic problem
94 T56 hydraulic problem hi, i just did my master cyl and slave, and had a problem right at the end of my job.
everything was going great, got the master in, and the lines without kinking, and got the pedal on.
but when it came to bleeding thats when things went bad. i bled the clutch my pushing up on the slave rod and having the air bubbles come out through the resivoir. when no more air came out i bolted the slave back up, and went to pump the clutch pedal. the pedal was soft 3/4 of the way down, then really really stiff the last 1/4. i pumped it a few times and went to the floorboard and i heard something pop, turned out to be the slave cylinder's seal underneath the rubber scrunchie, and the spring bent all to hell. well i put my old slave on thinking that that slave was defected and the same thing happened. i was told to bleed it that was as there is no other way to do it besides a mighty vac. the thing is, i did it before on the old slave before it broke and nothing happened to it when i reassembled everything.
i was having a problem getting into gear in 1st, 2nd, and R. R required force to get in and 1st aswell with some notchyness. 2nd gear was notchy and wierd. also i noticed the car rolling foward when i would put it in gear so i know its the hydraulics.
whoa.. long post.. sorry about that
does anyone know a reason why the slaves blew the seals like that?
thanks
everything was going great, got the master in, and the lines without kinking, and got the pedal on.
but when it came to bleeding thats when things went bad. i bled the clutch my pushing up on the slave rod and having the air bubbles come out through the resivoir. when no more air came out i bolted the slave back up, and went to pump the clutch pedal. the pedal was soft 3/4 of the way down, then really really stiff the last 1/4. i pumped it a few times and went to the floorboard and i heard something pop, turned out to be the slave cylinder's seal underneath the rubber scrunchie, and the spring bent all to hell. well i put my old slave on thinking that that slave was defected and the same thing happened. i was told to bleed it that was as there is no other way to do it besides a mighty vac. the thing is, i did it before on the old slave before it broke and nothing happened to it when i reassembled everything.
i was having a problem getting into gear in 1st, 2nd, and R. R required force to get in and 1st aswell with some notchyness. 2nd gear was notchy and wierd. also i noticed the car rolling foward when i would put it in gear so i know its the hydraulics.
whoa.. long post.. sorry about that
does anyone know a reason why the slaves blew the seals like that?
thanks
I , too, think that theres an assembly issue. The slave over travel is the result . I would look at the assembly of the fork relative to the Tstud/ pivot stud.Also see if the throw out bearing is out of position on the fork.
I have similar problems my 2nd gear has popped out 4 times, and reverse clashes when I go into it.
B4 I rebuilt her 1-2 have always shifted fine and upon inspection reflected that. Slider was in good shape had some wear the teeth edges were not SHARP but they were still in proper shape and the edges that would be sharp on a new one were still defined. Also on the actual gear they were fine too.
B4 i put the tranny in I slapped the 5.0 shifter in and then adjusted the stops on it but I really think I only used the 3-4 shift to do it. There is good chance actually that the 1-2 shift has slightly more travel becuz they are larger gears with a larger slider definitely at least in diameter but I cant say for sure in thickness which is where it would call for more travel.
The gear clash in reverse has to be improper clutch engagement, what I did to bleed was to keep pushin in and out the slave till there were no mo bubbles, then to bleed the master I used a mityvac gun and centered it inside the fluid container and pressurized to 15 lbs. then pumped the master till there were no more air bubbles. This worked but after a good while, I had to keep doing it until finally the slave seemed to engage the clutch fork but it must not be doing it enough.
Is there a guaranteed method out there?? help this an entirely newly installed drivetrain.
B4 I rebuilt her 1-2 have always shifted fine and upon inspection reflected that. Slider was in good shape had some wear the teeth edges were not SHARP but they were still in proper shape and the edges that would be sharp on a new one were still defined. Also on the actual gear they were fine too.
B4 i put the tranny in I slapped the 5.0 shifter in and then adjusted the stops on it but I really think I only used the 3-4 shift to do it. There is good chance actually that the 1-2 shift has slightly more travel becuz they are larger gears with a larger slider definitely at least in diameter but I cant say for sure in thickness which is where it would call for more travel.
The gear clash in reverse has to be improper clutch engagement, what I did to bleed was to keep pushin in and out the slave till there were no mo bubbles, then to bleed the master I used a mityvac gun and centered it inside the fluid container and pressurized to 15 lbs. then pumped the master till there were no more air bubbles. This worked but after a good while, I had to keep doing it until finally the slave seemed to engage the clutch fork but it must not be doing it enough.
Is there a guaranteed method out there?? help this an entirely newly installed drivetrain.
Wow I think you may have posted this in the wrong spot! This is really not the same issue that he was posting. Although there were bleed issues, he overtraveled the slave(twice). This is nothing to do with the trans. or synchronizer function.
i dont know how the slave would've over extended, i had the rod on the pivot dip on the fork. i put the slave back on with the straps that compress it , then pushed the clutch pedal o snap them after i was done pushing on it to bleed it.
the second time the slave rod was out of the cylinder and clearly was over extended.
i had everything set the way i took it out so im stumped.
only thing i remember was when i took the master rod off the pedal, i pushed up on the pedal towards the driver seat and it clicked 3 times or something but i dont think it moved the pedal travel or anything would it?
the second time the slave rod was out of the cylinder and clearly was over extended.
i had everything set the way i took it out so im stumped.
only thing i remember was when i took the master rod off the pedal, i pushed up on the pedal towards the driver seat and it clicked 3 times or something but i dont think it moved the pedal travel or anything would it?
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Originally Posted by calhoon
Wow I think you may have posted this in the wrong spot! This is really not the same issue that he was posting. Although there were bleed issues, he overtraveled the slave(twice). This is nothing to do with the trans. or synchronizer function.
The rest is in there in case some1 has somthing WORTHwhile to lend to it.
Anyways I used this method on mine:
http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm
but as stated previously it was not a smooth operation, and this method is for LS1 which I think have bleeders on the slaves.
for Lt1s we don't(another simalirity for captain obvious)
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Verdad Gallardo so what are possible causes of overextending the slave?
i went under the car and looked at the shift fork. its able to move towards me (rear of the car) and side to side. i dont think its bad as its a new one (8 mos old).
i went under the car and looked at the shift fork. its able to move towards me (rear of the car) and side to side. i dont think its bad as its a new one (8 mos old).
well i think i may have dry bled the slave.
i went under, pushed the slave in 20mm, and capped the resivoir. then let go of the slave rod and when it was out, uncapped the resiv. then pumped the slave 10mm at a time until all the air bubbles were gone.
also my other slave that blew, bent the rod somewhat.
i went under, pushed the slave in 20mm, and capped the resivoir. then let go of the slave rod and when it was out, uncapped the resiv. then pumped the slave 10mm at a time until all the air bubbles were gone.
also my other slave that blew, bent the rod somewhat.
I really wish we had bleeders. But whatever your doing it's great cuz somehow your creating extra pressure but I guess too much.
I didn't do what u did with the cap being put on and then taking it off. I'm gonna try it tommorrow. To see if it helps.
I didn't do what u did with the cap being put on and then taking it off. I'm gonna try it tommorrow. To see if it helps.
yeh i got the read out from work from the program we use.
i only did the capping once right at the beginning, but it seems like it was way too much pressure. i did the bleeding this way before without capping the res and nothing happened. im wondering if the resivoir dropped too low or empty right before my dad uncapped it and drew alot of air in.
it felt really stiff the last 3/4, almost like a had a twin disc or iron disc in the trans.
i only did the capping once right at the beginning, but it seems like it was way too much pressure. i did the bleeding this way before without capping the res and nothing happened. im wondering if the resivoir dropped too low or empty right before my dad uncapped it and drew alot of air in.
it felt really stiff the last 3/4, almost like a had a twin disc or iron disc in the trans.
all i did with the master was bolt it on and pushed the rod in a little to put the pedal back on the rod and clipped it.
Originally Posted by License2Ill
u dont have hard copies or instructions to the TEE I really want to duplicate whatever u've done. I think where u messed up is when u pulled on the master, thats how u created overpressure
*1994 Camaro Z28*
clutch hydraulic line bleeding.
1. loosen clutch master cylinder nuts to ends of U bolt (do not take the nuts off completely). clean resivoir cap. remove the cap and condom in resivoir.
2. while vehicle is in the air, remove slave cylinder leaving the hydraulic line connected. hang cylinder from wire. lower vehicle. grasp actualor cylinder and push rod into bore about 20mm and hold in this position. have an assistant install diaphram and cap onto resivoir. release actuator pushrod.
3. hold actuator cylinder vertically with pushrod end facing down. ensure actuator cylinder is lower than master cyl. press pushrod into actuator cylinder with short 10mm strokes. check for air bubbles in resivoir. if bubbles are present, continue pressing pushrod into actuator cylinder until bubbles no longer enter resivoir.
4. raise vehicle and install actuator cylinder. tighten master cylinder nuts, and fill resivoir.
clutch hydraulic line bleeding.
1. loosen clutch master cylinder nuts to ends of U bolt (do not take the nuts off completely). clean resivoir cap. remove the cap and condom in resivoir.
2. while vehicle is in the air, remove slave cylinder leaving the hydraulic line connected. hang cylinder from wire. lower vehicle. grasp actualor cylinder and push rod into bore about 20mm and hold in this position. have an assistant install diaphram and cap onto resivoir. release actuator pushrod.
3. hold actuator cylinder vertically with pushrod end facing down. ensure actuator cylinder is lower than master cyl. press pushrod into actuator cylinder with short 10mm strokes. check for air bubbles in resivoir. if bubbles are present, continue pressing pushrod into actuator cylinder until bubbles no longer enter resivoir.
4. raise vehicle and install actuator cylinder. tighten master cylinder nuts, and fill resivoir.
Perfect thanks a million I will do this and see what happens. I managed to go out tonight and open up the stop bolt on my 5.0 shifter and guess what?? whalla 2nd gear no longer pops out!!!! so my T56 rebuild looks good again.
Reverse didn't clash today when I was putting it in. But I want to be sure I'm getting proper clutch disengagement so im gonna re-bleed.
Reverse didn't clash today when I was putting it in. But I want to be sure I'm getting proper clutch disengagement so im gonna re-bleed.
Oh by the way I was thinking about the 3 clicks u said u heard when u pulled on the master.... u should go down there and inspect to see if the boot or cap on it is what u heard popping off, and what is happening is that its hanging by its last edge and your master is overextending and then overpressurizing the slave. But since u got the clip in the master isn't falling apart or spilling out the fluid. a longshot but possible in theory.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 256
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From: st louis
just an fyi for you guys who wished you had bleeders
a slve froma 92 350 5 speed camaor is identical to a lt1 slave ( i used one in my swap) there is only one difference is that it has a bleeder valve
a slve froma 92 350 5 speed camaor is identical to a lt1 slave ( i used one in my swap) there is only one difference is that it has a bleeder valve