View Poll Results: go stick or stay auto
auto
23
23.47%
stick
75
76.53%
Voters: 98. You may not vote on this poll
go stick or stay auto?
#1
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go stick or stay auto?
im debating on what i should do, i love autos for consistency but 6spd on the street, just want to get some other ppl pov's...i posted this in auto section and manual section btw
#3
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I voted auto, but only because you already have an auto. Doing the swap isn't worth it. If you're talking about selling your car and buying a M6, I'd do that if I knew I wouldn't end up losing too much money (and I'd definitely factor in the price of a 12-bolt rear in that equation.)
#4
It all depends on you. I have a Nova thats an original manual car, I swapped it from auto to manual several times before staying with an automatic. But I also drag race it often.
My camaro is a driver, meaning I don't need to drive it, I have three other vehicles. Swapping to an M6 on that made the car more fun to drive, yet I kept all the auto stuff to bolt back in if I change my mind. I can't imagine selling and buying another car just for a different transmission, my swap cost $2700 including rear gears and a lot of new parts I could have gotten used. I bought the car with low mileage and they're not easy to find around here.
PS The transmission I bought had a few thousand less miles than the car.
My camaro is a driver, meaning I don't need to drive it, I have three other vehicles. Swapping to an M6 on that made the car more fun to drive, yet I kept all the auto stuff to bolt back in if I change my mind. I can't imagine selling and buying another car just for a different transmission, my swap cost $2700 including rear gears and a lot of new parts I could have gotten used. I bought the car with low mileage and they're not easy to find around here.
PS The transmission I bought had a few thousand less miles than the car.
#5
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I'm converting my car over as we speak (actually, the transmission is supposed to be showing up TODAY!!)...
...my motives were that A) I debated getting the M6 vs. A4 before I even bought my car, and that was over 4 years ago, B) I've run the 1/4 mile enough to know what my car is capable of as an auto, I can afford to lose some consistancy, because I don't race competitively anyway, and C) I smoked my 4L60E while road racing the car, and if I have any thoughts of continuing that, I'll keep smoking the A4 every time I go out.
...SO, I'm going with the T56 at this point. The swap really isn't all that difficult, and cost wise, it was going to cost me well over ~$2000 (closer to ~$2500) to get a well built 4L60E and a new, high stall converter. The T56 conversion is costing me around ~$3000. For ~$500 difference, it's not worth selling your car and buying another one, IMO.
Honestly though, it depends on what you want to do with your car. How can somebody else decide for you what you want???
...my motives were that A) I debated getting the M6 vs. A4 before I even bought my car, and that was over 4 years ago, B) I've run the 1/4 mile enough to know what my car is capable of as an auto, I can afford to lose some consistancy, because I don't race competitively anyway, and C) I smoked my 4L60E while road racing the car, and if I have any thoughts of continuing that, I'll keep smoking the A4 every time I go out.
...SO, I'm going with the T56 at this point. The swap really isn't all that difficult, and cost wise, it was going to cost me well over ~$2000 (closer to ~$2500) to get a well built 4L60E and a new, high stall converter. The T56 conversion is costing me around ~$3000. For ~$500 difference, it's not worth selling your car and buying another one, IMO.
Honestly though, it depends on what you want to do with your car. How can somebody else decide for you what you want???
#6
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Originally Posted by Cap'n Pete
I'm converting my car over as we speak (actually, the transmission is supposed to be showing up TODAY!!)...
...my motives were that A) I debated getting the M6 vs. A4 before I even bought my car, and that was over 4 years ago, B) I've run the 1/4 mile enough to know what my car is capable of as an auto, I can afford to lose some consistancy, because I don't race competitively anyway, and C) I smoked my 4L60E while road racing the car, and if I have any thoughts of continuing that, I'll keep smoking the A4 every time I go out.
...SO, I'm going with the T56 at this point. The swap really isn't all that difficult, and cost wise, it was going to cost me well over ~$2000 (closer to ~$2500) to get a well built 4L60E and a new, high stall converter. The T56 conversion is costing me around ~$3000. For ~$500 difference, it's not worth selling your car and buying another one, IMO.
Honestly though, it depends on what you want to do with your car. How can somebody else decide for you what you want???
...my motives were that A) I debated getting the M6 vs. A4 before I even bought my car, and that was over 4 years ago, B) I've run the 1/4 mile enough to know what my car is capable of as an auto, I can afford to lose some consistancy, because I don't race competitively anyway, and C) I smoked my 4L60E while road racing the car, and if I have any thoughts of continuing that, I'll keep smoking the A4 every time I go out.
...SO, I'm going with the T56 at this point. The swap really isn't all that difficult, and cost wise, it was going to cost me well over ~$2000 (closer to ~$2500) to get a well built 4L60E and a new, high stall converter. The T56 conversion is costing me around ~$3000. For ~$500 difference, it's not worth selling your car and buying another one, IMO.
Honestly though, it depends on what you want to do with your car. How can somebody else decide for you what you want???
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#11
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Originally Posted by Ghostintheshell
how would you smoke your Auto street racing?
#13
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I did the swap too. I always wanted a 6 speed because I have always liked road racing but just bought my car with an auto because at the time i didn't know how to drive a manual. So after the swap i've been more happy driving the car than i did with the stalled auto.
Also if you like going to the drag strip all the time then you're going to hate the 6 speed. You build a car for the type of driving you do and like.
Also if you like going to the drag strip all the time then you're going to hate the 6 speed. You build a car for the type of driving you do and like.
#15
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Originally Posted by RaNsOm
he didnt say street racing, he said road racing....aka tracks with a bunch of turns in it, like Laguna Seca. Manual cars are 10x better for that kind of racing anyways, I voted manual.
"Street racing" is a different story ... consider it like drag racing, you've got better odds of winning with an auto.
And FWIW, I just got the car put together late last night ... but so far so good! I'm very glad I went through with this swap!
#16
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I have had both, and the only reason I got rid of my previous car was because it was an a4. I wanted a m6 from the start and came across the auto with low miles and a good price and jumped on it back in 03. 1.5 yrs later, several mods, and some low 11 sec timeslips and I let it go so I could start fresh with my current car, m6 of course Absolutely NO regrets
#18
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Originally Posted by UA-Plumber
I voted manual because I am doing a swap this winter. I have everything but pedals and crossmember.
#19
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Stay Auto!
Here's my story...Just a realistic thought on the M6 swap. I recently purchased a 99 WS6 with a manual 6 speed. It needed to have the rear main seal replaced so my cousin and I who are more than your average mechanics decided to replace it. We dropped the tranny, clutch, flywheel the whole works and replaced it. Well while we were down there we noticed the clutch and pressure plate were pretty cooked so I went and got another one from Summit Racing out of Reno, NV. I got the Centerforce DFX clutch, new pressure plate and got the flywheel resurfaced. All of this costing about $600.00 total. Well we needed a new slave cylinder too and pilot bearing so went and got those at Kragen...$167.98. After we bench bled the clutch and master cylinder we hooked everything backup with no air in the lines...so we thought. After reassembling the shifter, and most of the interior and got it all reassembled we noticed the clutch pedal would just fall the the floor. No hydraulic pressure...So we went through about 2 quarts of DOT 3 brake fluid tying to do the pump, crack bleeder method, close bleeder and nothing would build pressure. Had to get the car towed to mechanic where he had a modified mity-vac which fixed it in about 10 minutes. Another $102.00 for tow and $65.00 at the mechanic. I was happy...then the the 3-4 tranny fork got bent from shifting as well as the 3rd syncro started to go out and jump out of gear. So I got an estimate of $700.00 in labor to rebuild the tranny not including parts. So the steel upgraded fork cost $39.00 from t56rebuilds.com and the rebuild kit cost $169.00 the 3-4 syncronize assembly came together which cost another $115.00. All this not including all the strife, downtime, manhours, screaming, yelling, driving and gas costs ... total: $1957.98. Now I want you to seriously think about that manual 6 speed and the hydraulic clutch system. Don't make the same mistake I did please. Hopefully you factor in my little story before you make that swap.