Problem with LS7 install?
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
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Problem with LS7 install? Took my car to a local transmission shop with parts needed for the clutch swap already in hand. Bought a Fenco/or Brakewear Slave cylinder from autozone and Luk master cylinder (has no braided line). Also bought LS7 clutch w/ LS7 flywheel from Fred Beans. Anyway, I read around that you need the LS2 flywheel for it to work. Now is that the LS2 flywheel on a GTO or Corvette because if its the Corvette then it doesn't matter because the LS2 and the LS7 flywheel are the same part number from the dealership and are the same thing right?
The problem the shop had was the clutch pedal having no feel/ not engaging in their terms, while they were bleeding it the old fashion way. Their were trying to pump the clutch I guess. They said the did this method for about an hour and that my car was the longest they've bleed like this with no results.
I read around different boards that bleeding takes a while and that some even vacummed it with a mityvac. Could the way they're bleeding it be the problem??
Anyway, the shop told me that I needed to get a stock clutch and return the one I bought since they said the LS7 clutch was to narrow in width and wouldnt engage as the LS1 did ( guess he was refering to the forks being raised on the LS1 and not on the LS7). I called and asked around and some trans shops & performance shops said they had problems with the install while some said its a direct bolt on. Frusterated because I should be driving her already.
The problem the shop had was the clutch pedal having no feel/ not engaging in their terms, while they were bleeding it the old fashion way. Their were trying to pump the clutch I guess. They said the did this method for about an hour and that my car was the longest they've bleed like this with no results.
I read around different boards that bleeding takes a while and that some even vacummed it with a mityvac. Could the way they're bleeding it be the problem??
Anyway, the shop told me that I needed to get a stock clutch and return the one I bought since they said the LS7 clutch was to narrow in width and wouldnt engage as the LS1 did ( guess he was refering to the forks being raised on the LS1 and not on the LS7). I called and asked around and some trans shops & performance shops said they had problems with the install while some said its a direct bolt on. Frusterated because I should be driving her already.
TECH Addict
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It's a direct bolt on LS2 flywheel + LS7 clutch, I installed it myself first time around (first time installing a clutch in my life ever too!) and had no issues. My pedal is finally back to stock position and feel after almost 1500 miles of driving. The initial engagement point had it grabbing hard within the first inch, after driving like that for a few miles it moved up to the 2-3 inch mark and slowly but surely it moved almost perfectly back to stock position engagement and feel.
The last week of daily driving in stop/go really really has brought up the engagement position. I can feel it starting to engage about 2-3 inches off the floor with full engagement at about the half mark.
I also changed the slave to an 01/02 updated one although it looked identical in size and dimension, but had a stronger spring and supposed beefed up internals. I also changed the pilot bearing and used ARP bolts on the flywheel. I kept my stock 98 master and it's been fine. I also did the standard bleed with my cousin's help, I crack bleeder, he pushed in pedal, I close bleeder he pulls back clutch pedal if it's stuck, rinse and repeat with fluid in resevoir kept topped off.
The last week of daily driving in stop/go really really has brought up the engagement position. I can feel it starting to engage about 2-3 inches off the floor with full engagement at about the half mark.
I also changed the slave to an 01/02 updated one although it looked identical in size and dimension, but had a stronger spring and supposed beefed up internals. I also changed the pilot bearing and used ARP bolts on the flywheel. I kept my stock 98 master and it's been fine. I also did the standard bleed with my cousin's help, I crack bleeder, he pushed in pedal, I close bleeder he pulls back clutch pedal if it's stuck, rinse and repeat with fluid in resevoir kept topped off.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
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I didn't have the chance of feeling where the clutch engaged; if at all.?
So I guess what everone is saying is that the clutch is not the problem??
Can anyone answer my clutch part# question about the LS2 and LS7 flywheel??
How would one check the hydrualic line, slave, master cylinder for it functioning properly?? BOth are new parts but the master didn't come with a braided line.
ANy help? Suggestions?/
I'll probably tell them to hook the LS7 back in even though they'll probably argue with me saying that its the culprit for the clutch not working.
So I guess what everone is saying is that the clutch is not the problem??
Can anyone answer my clutch part# question about the LS2 and LS7 flywheel??
How would one check the hydrualic line, slave, master cylinder for it functioning properly?? BOth are new parts but the master didn't come with a braided line.
ANy help? Suggestions?/
I'll probably tell them to hook the LS7 back in even though they'll probably argue with me saying that its the culprit for the clutch not working.
I think it was fine. I replaced my clutch over the weekend. Replaced my SPEC III for a SPEC III. At first when I was done, the pedal felt "squishy" and the engagement was about 2 inches off the floor. Compared to my old SPEC III it just felt wrong. Well after about 100 miles of driving, the engagement has moved to about 4-5 inches off the floor and the pedal is getting a little "heavier".
Just something fior you to compare to.
Just something fior you to compare to.
The LS7 is a direct bolt in. If the shop couldn't get it right take it somewhere else or do it in your driveway. The LS2 flywheel should have a outter raised lip.
I used the mity vac & it was done in about 20 minutes. Tell them the clutch is NOT the problem. It will engauge right off the floor at first, but after a few hundred miles it will be back at stock height.
I used the mity vac & it was done in about 20 minutes. Tell them the clutch is NOT the problem. It will engauge right off the floor at first, but after a few hundred miles it will be back at stock height.
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
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Back from local shop. Still no luck.
I read somewhere that the flywheel is installed different from the stock ls1
flywheel?? Is this true?? I know that its thicker. Could this be the reason
the slave is not reaching the forks on the clutch if this is "the actual problem??"
Are the Pressure plate and flywheel bolts bolted differently??
Or could this just be the hydraulic line? Bad slave? Or maybe just more bleeding?
I turned the car on and tryed to get it into gear but the clutch is not engaging at all. The clutch pedal pops back up though so there has to be some pressure their. The mechanic told me that it went into gear on the rack while lifted up.
Called MTI and they said its a direct bolt-on with stock hydraulics. Didn't tell me anything about anything thats done different when installing it.
Im thinking maybe the slave is pour quality?? Heard stories about slaves from autozone going out quick. Does the dealerships slaves really have less problems??
Is their any shim needed or different slave needed for the install??
Heard other people saying theirs engages right off the floor at first but then returns to stock after driving it. The local shop told me that could damage the synchros in the tranny.
Right now I'm tight on cash and don't know if I want to take it to another shop but if I do it'll be MTI in HOuston (thats gonna be pricey). Maybe I can luck out by the problem just being the bleeding.
I read somewhere that the flywheel is installed different from the stock ls1
flywheel?? Is this true?? I know that its thicker. Could this be the reason
the slave is not reaching the forks on the clutch if this is "the actual problem??"
Are the Pressure plate and flywheel bolts bolted differently??
Or could this just be the hydraulic line? Bad slave? Or maybe just more bleeding?
I turned the car on and tryed to get it into gear but the clutch is not engaging at all. The clutch pedal pops back up though so there has to be some pressure their. The mechanic told me that it went into gear on the rack while lifted up.
Called MTI and they said its a direct bolt-on with stock hydraulics. Didn't tell me anything about anything thats done different when installing it.
Im thinking maybe the slave is pour quality?? Heard stories about slaves from autozone going out quick. Does the dealerships slaves really have less problems??
Is their any shim needed or different slave needed for the install??
Heard other people saying theirs engages right off the floor at first but then returns to stock after driving it. The local shop told me that could damage the synchros in the tranny.
Right now I'm tight on cash and don't know if I want to take it to another shop but if I do it'll be MTI in HOuston (thats gonna be pricey). Maybe I can luck out by the problem just being the bleeding.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
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If the clutch is engaging within the first few inches of pedal, that's normal. I don't think that they would be worried about that. It sound's like they are complaining about the pressure plate being fully depressed. If they can't get the system to bleed out, more than likley either the master or slave or perhaps even the line is bogus. They should be able to look for leaks.
They may have also installed the clutch wrong? Probably not. It's safe to assume any half decent garage has preformed their number of ls1/2/7 stuff before so they should have a feel for it.
Also, check part numbers to ensure you actually recieved the correct eqipment.
They may have also installed the clutch wrong? Probably not. It's safe to assume any half decent garage has preformed their number of ls1/2/7 stuff before so they should have a feel for it.
Also, check part numbers to ensure you actually recieved the correct eqipment.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: houston
I think you should take it to MTI. Even if the shop that has it now gets it working.. are you really going to be 100% comfortable with the install? Probably not, i know i wouldnt. MTI may be pricey, but you get what you pay for IMO. Piece of mind is worth every penny. Go get it done right.
TECH Senior Member
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Bossier city,LA barksdale AFB
i have mine with a ls2 flywheel with ls7 clutch 5,000+ miles and still no problems!! when you get it working you will notice the clutch starts way at the bottom of the flour so dont worry it will adjust up!
Originally Posted by Dannyboy81
Back from local shop. Still no luck.
I read somewhere that the flywheel is installed different from the stock ls1
flywheel?? Is this true?? I know that its thicker. Could this be the reason
the slave is not reaching the forks on the clutch if this is "the actual problem??"
Are the Pressure plate and flywheel bolts bolted differently??
Or could this just be the hydraulic line? Bad slave? Or maybe just more bleeding?
I turned the car on and tryed to get it into gear but the clutch is not engaging at all. The clutch pedal pops back up though so there has to be some pressure their. The mechanic told me that it went into gear on the rack while lifted up.
Called MTI and they said its a direct bolt-on with stock hydraulics. Didn't tell me anything about anything thats done different when installing it.
Im thinking maybe the slave is pour quality?? Heard stories about slaves from autozone going out quick. Does the dealerships slaves really have less problems??
Is their any shim needed or different slave needed for the install??
Heard other people saying theirs engages right off the floor at first but then returns to stock after driving it. The local shop told me that could damage the synchros in the tranny.
Right now I'm tight on cash and don't know if I want to take it to another shop but if I do it'll be MTI in HOuston (thats gonna be pricey). Maybe I can luck out by the problem just being the bleeding.
I read somewhere that the flywheel is installed different from the stock ls1
flywheel?? Is this true?? I know that its thicker. Could this be the reason
the slave is not reaching the forks on the clutch if this is "the actual problem??"
Are the Pressure plate and flywheel bolts bolted differently??
Or could this just be the hydraulic line? Bad slave? Or maybe just more bleeding?
I turned the car on and tryed to get it into gear but the clutch is not engaging at all. The clutch pedal pops back up though so there has to be some pressure their. The mechanic told me that it went into gear on the rack while lifted up.
Called MTI and they said its a direct bolt-on with stock hydraulics. Didn't tell me anything about anything thats done different when installing it.
Im thinking maybe the slave is pour quality?? Heard stories about slaves from autozone going out quick. Does the dealerships slaves really have less problems??
Is their any shim needed or different slave needed for the install??
Heard other people saying theirs engages right off the floor at first but then returns to stock after driving it. The local shop told me that could damage the synchros in the tranny.
Right now I'm tight on cash and don't know if I want to take it to another shop but if I do it'll be MTI in HOuston (thats gonna be pricey). Maybe I can luck out by the problem just being the bleeding.
If it will go into all gears while the car is turned off then not while its running, it needs to be bled. Thats exactly what mine did on my install. After bleeding it worked perfect. I'm starting to think these guys are doin something wrong. We did my clutch in a driveway at night & got it right the first time. I don't understand why they are having such a problem.
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,379
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No offense to your mechanics, but I did a clutch for the first time ever in my life to my car and got it all taken apart, reinstalled, and bled properly on my first shot.
The LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel combo is a practically stock install. No shims, no fancy parts needed, just replace what needs replacing and go. For me I replaced pilot bearing (stock one looked brand new with only 70k on it), replaced slave to 01/02 slave, (new throwout bearing comes on it), replaced flywheel bolts to ARP bolts, red locktite on the flywheel bolts, reused pressure plate bolts, blue locktite on them. All torqued to spec properly.
After we bled it and I started it up, no problems. It grabbed immediately off the floor but not bad enough that I couldn't drive it. Heck I didn't even stall it once until a week later when it was nearly back to it's old position, I was careless trying to do a u turn on a small street.
The LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel combo is a practically stock install. No shims, no fancy parts needed, just replace what needs replacing and go. For me I replaced pilot bearing (stock one looked brand new with only 70k on it), replaced slave to 01/02 slave, (new throwout bearing comes on it), replaced flywheel bolts to ARP bolts, red locktite on the flywheel bolts, reused pressure plate bolts, blue locktite on them. All torqued to spec properly.
After we bled it and I started it up, no problems. It grabbed immediately off the floor but not bad enough that I couldn't drive it. Heck I didn't even stall it once until a week later when it was nearly back to it's old position, I was careless trying to do a u turn on a small street.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Monterey, CA
I just had my stock clutch replaced on my 99TA two days ago (87000 miles) with an LS7 kit with 01/02 slave cylinder and I've had a similar experience. My mechanic spent over an hour bleeding the clutch because he was convinced that the clutch wouldn't be drivable due to it catching at the carpet. I practically had to push the pedal thru the floorboard to get it into reverse. But, by the time I got her home it was better and it continues to work its way back to normal.
I didn't swap out the master cylinder with a new one. Is this a good idea? How are the 01/02 masters different?
I didn't swap out the master cylinder with a new one. Is this a good idea? How are the 01/02 masters different?
