Slave replacement coming up
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From: Tri-Cities, WA
Slave replacement coming up I have to replace the slave on my car in a bad way and I have it ordered and on it's way. My question is this. Do I need to fully drop the tranny to get the old one out or just back it off? I am sure it will be a mess in there with fluid. Just a simple brake cleaner spray down and shop rag dry will be good? I was also already prepped to just cut out the 1" hole so I could bleed solo once it is in. Any info is appreciated, just keep in mind that this will be the first time digging into the T56 since I paid for the clutch install when that was replaced. I am sure it will make more sense once I have my hands in there. Thanks for the help all!
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you have to drop the tranny to get to the slave. (sorry for the bad news) the good news is brake fluid cleans up with water. but you really need to dry things off after to prevent corrosion so some brake cleaner will work just fine. instead of a hole go here http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=6750 and get this
so you can put the bleeder screw allmost anywhere you want.
so you can put the bleeder screw allmost anywhere you want.
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So drop the full tranny, put it on the bench replace the slave and then reinstall? Spraying out the full bellhousing with brake cleaner and then rag drying is OK as well? When bleeding I crack the line (or hose if I get this) push the pedal down, close screw, pull pedal back up and repeat process. I keep doing this until when I push the pedal down it starts to leak from the bleeder screw right? Also waiting for the pedal to start leaking out at the comfortable height correct? That line does look awesome and the fitment is well reviewed but I hve no idea where I would mount it. I am still needing SFCs and don't want to install it on the frame in case it is the way for SFC install.
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yup just 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder. clean out the bellhousing and wipe it down. then bleed like you've stated. it may take several attemts to get the thing bled correctly, hence why I bought the line. you could mount it allmost anywhere with a couple of zip ties, adel clamps etc . I think it's long enough ti be mounted in the engine compartment making so you don't have to raise the car to bleed the clutch.
I just installed that exact setup on my car,and I ran the bleeder hose up the bellhousing and along the driver side coil packs. I used a length of safety wire as a fish tape to pull the braided hose up the backside of the engine. This makes bleeding the clutch a snap!
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I installed new hydraulics (master and slave) and installed the Steve slave extension - works great. I submerged the entire tip of the line in brake fluid and bled away and was done in 15 minutes. As far as dropping the tranny, take your time and read up on the various techniques. It's really not messy at all with respect to brake fluid since the quick-disconnect is the only issue.
Last edited by MrEddie; Dec 24, 2006 at 11:26 PM.
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Are there any torque specs that need to be used when putting the slave on? Come to think of it, I will need ALL torque specs for the whole procedure. Anyone know these, I am planning on doing the repair either tomorrow or Thursday. Thanks!
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let's see the 99 GM f Body manual sez
pressure plate 70 N-m or 52 lb ft
transnission bolt 50 N-m or 37 lb ft
drain plug 27 N-m 20 lb ft
transmission mount bolt 48 N-m 38 lb ft
transmission mount nut 105N-m 77 lb ft
transmission support bolt 57 N-m 42 lb ft
engine flywheel bolts
first pass 20 N-m 15 lb ft
second pass 50 N-m 37 lb ft
final pass 100 N-m 74 lb ft
and just for the hell of it the oil filter is rated to be at 30 N-m 22 lb ft lol
pressure plate 70 N-m or 52 lb ft
transnission bolt 50 N-m or 37 lb ft
drain plug 27 N-m 20 lb ft
transmission mount bolt 48 N-m 38 lb ft
transmission mount nut 105N-m 77 lb ft
transmission support bolt 57 N-m 42 lb ft
engine flywheel bolts
first pass 20 N-m 15 lb ft
second pass 50 N-m 37 lb ft
final pass 100 N-m 74 lb ft
and just for the hell of it the oil filter is rated to be at 30 N-m 22 lb ft lol
I'm sure you've read up on a few write ups, but here I tried to clarify the problems that were run into during the install that were not addressed in anything I read.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/627928-clutch-install-02-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/627928-clutch-install-02-a.html
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Finished the slave, bled it out and still have much of the same problem. My car if in reverse too long it will begin to engage even with the clutch pedal on the floor. Same for first gear to an extent. I am puzzled and will be replacing the master cylinder Tuesday. Any other ideas? The pedal neds to be physically lifted from about halfway return when starting off in first and also sometimes on upshifts. Any light on this would be greatly appreciated!
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Well the good thing is that the master is a much easier/quicker job. Before I updated the master/slave, if I was in first at a light with the pedal depressed, it would sometimes become notchy and difficult to shift. I had to pump the pedal 10 times or so to achieve pressure. Did you install the slave extension? That thing really does rock.
Last edited by MrEddie; Dec 30, 2006 at 04:19 PM.
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I have a 02 master on order, that should be no problem at all since all of our parts pretty much crossover right? I did not learn of the extension until the slave was well on it's way and so I do not have it in. However, I will do it with the next clutch for sure. I will buy it now even though I am (hopefully) far from a new clutch. I have the exact problem of needing to pump up the pedal to achieve a shift. That led me to believe that the master was leaking through it's seal and matching pressure on both sides and not allowing the pedal to snap back up.
