MAXIMUM HP FOR T56&10BOLT??
<small>[ August 27, 2002, 09:16 AM: Message edited by: chevyracing1069 ]</small>
To answer your question realisticly:
400 rwhp with stock radials and stock clutch
350 rwhp with Nitto/BFG drag radials and stck clutch
Slicks and an aftermarket clutch-Kablooie!!
Now this is just my opinion, hardly scientific. Just based on what I've heard from other Fbody guys at the track. There are a few mutant rearends out there that seem indestructable as long as you dont go over a 3.73 gear. 4.10's are the kiss of death due to the smaller teeth. Plan on buying a 12 bolt or a 9 inch.
The majority of 6 speed guys end up breaking them after they add just bolt ons and a cam. Throwing a big cube motor at the 10-Bolt and stock clutch is a joke. First launch on slicks or even a drag radial for that matter, and the rearends gonna make its exit.
Now some are lucky. By some, I pretty much mean the A4 guys. The automatic transmission doesn't put as much "shock" thru the rearend, and thats how they get away with retaining the factory 10-Bolt for a while longer.
So, I now have a McLeod single disk (for now), a steel driveshaft and as of last weekend a Moser 12 bolt. Yeah it's 3k but it's built like a tank. Short of having the T56 cryod and race prepped it should be damn strong on a hooking track. Yesterday at the track I couldn't even launch on the Nitto's this setup now lights those tires up like crazy! Time to go to a 10" tire!!! <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
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Fried the stock clutch the other day and I thought I broke it because I had no forward momentum but it turns out on top of frying the clutch I snapped the output shaft on the tranny. I know these trannies are pretty strong but mine must have had some sort of defect if the output shaft snapped with what little power I am pushing. Also with the slipping clutch it wasn't putting a full load on the tranny.
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