Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

My stocker was slipping at 80K miles so i'm uping now to a Ram HDX. I've heard good things. i WAS gonna do the install myself, but for $350 to have a garage do it right, i'll have them do it. If it's a botched install i got somebody to bitch at lol I'll keep ya posted~Cole~

redline.inc

I just finished my new spec 5 this weekend. Pulled the old one out, and found out that the clutch is in perfect shape, and it was the iron flywheel that was bad. Got it shaved and balanced with the new clutch and installed. Is running nice right now during the break in peroid. Atleast I have a backup clutch when this one goes out.

WS6GoFast

I put about 14K on my last ram power grip(non HD) with numerous track passes, where i slipped the **** out of it. I thought for how i drove it it lasted plenty long so i bought a power grip hd, its barley broken in though so it has no passes on it yet.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Z06 clutch back in 2001 lasted 10K. Ram 980 lasted 10K. ClutchMaster I have now has lasted 3 years, 30+ passes at the track. New flywheel when I put this one in, perhaps that helped.

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

OK... I gotta ask. Everyone talks about the install. Been workin on cars for years so maybe its me but how the hell can you mess up the install on a clutch? I built a 383 by forums just like this one without even owning a V8 before. I'm sure you can mess up an install but how?

Clutchmaster??? Is that another new one?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/

4 years that I know of.

ChocoTaco369

this guy may have hit the nail on the head. textralia is supposed to be one of the best, if not the best clutch for these cars. maybe your flywheel is the problem here. are you still using the stock flywheel? have you used the same flywheel for all 3 clutches? perhaps the flywheel is causing the clutches to "feel" like they're slipping, or perhaps the flywheel is causing the clutches to wear out prematurely. consider swapping out the flywheel.

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

Nope... each clutch I bought, I bought with a new flywheel and new slave. I know its a bit much but I figure on doing it right each time. So much for that huh.

redline.inc

I bought the Spec Iron Disk and got it redone and balanced. Another thing to remember is that even though they come balanced, it pays to take it a good shop to balance the clutch and flywheel together. It makes a difference. Just another thing that might help.

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

I did that with my Ram Powergrip. Still ended up blowing out the spring with like 10k on it.

1QWIKBIRD

iTrader: (25)

I've got 10k on my SPEC 3+ and no complaints. New aluminum flywheel, hydraulics at time of install. Babied it for the first 800 miles around town driving (per SPEC) to fully bed/seat the clutch. 420hp to the wheels. 30-40 passes at the strip. When at the strip I dump it, never slip it. Bring it up to 4500-5000 rpm and let it rip on ET streets. Not one complaint. I autox the car too (not real tough on the clutch admittedly), no problems. I think break in is soooo critical.

Chris

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Lots of things can go wrong. Had problem with adjustable hydraulics with cartech clutch and it died in a few thousand miles and never even made it to track. Guess it was dragging all the time. Buddy has old spec 3 and has tons of miles and track passes on it. He has heads/cam/header/bolt on car and recently added spray. But we are talking like 60,000 miles on his spec 3. He just put in tex see how it does. I have tex twin but not many miles on it it yet and twin turbos and new motor is not in car yet so only running 420 engine ,no track passes. Have maybe 2000 or so miles on the clutch since install.

I am pretty fed up with standards and clutches and might just go 480 le if have much more problems.

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

Its a good idea to find out how much travel you have in the slave. measure the distance between the surface of the bellhousing to the top of the PP fingers. Mount the slave to the trans and take a straight edge and press the slave back till it stops and measure the distance between the trans to bell mating surface and the front of the throwout bearing. Subtract this from the first number. You should have a positive number. Mine was .270ish difference. I added a Ram brand .150 shim and was left with .120 of slave travel before bottom. I believe I measured about .600 possible total travel in the slave. My clutch engages close to the top. A puck disk doesnt have nearly the wear distance that a fiber disk does so I'm not worried about eating up the .120 distance too quickly. Without actually measuring the distance, for all you know, you could be doing an install that has the slave bottomed out and partially compressing the PP. Just as bad is if you only have .010 of clearance before bottoming the slave. Wear will eliminate that and cause the PP to partially depressed. I havent tried an install with .300+ of slave bottom to PP clearance but I'd bet that it would make the engagement close to the floor. In that case, when your speed shifting or even normal driving, you may not be fully disengaging the PP. Button type disks die quickly when heated or slipped excessively. Maybe someone else who has actually measured different slave positions could chime in with some info about where engagement occurs depending upon differing clearances between slaves and PP fingers. At any rate, just slapping in parts without knowing FOR SHURE what your distances are especially with a non adjustable PP is a bad idea. It leaves too much to chance.