Textralia Clutch Problem
03-19-2007, 09:48 PM
#41
I just noticed today that when I put the car on a flat surface, push the clutch in and put it in gear the car starts moving forward. I guess my clutch is dragging. These problems occured when I put the new clutch and slave cylinder in. If the pressure plate bolts didn't back out should I shim the slave and replace it.
03-20-2007, 09:56 AM
#42
I bought one of the first runs of these Textralia clutches when they first came out and i can tell you ive never been happier with any other clutch. thankfully, i didnt have any of these issues.
since im putting a new motor in with a ton more power im lookin to upgrade to an Exoskel.
i hope you figure it out cause i know once your engagment issue gets sorted, you'll love the feel of it. goodluck.
since im putting a new motor in with a ton more power im lookin to upgrade to an Exoskel.
i hope you figure it out cause i know once your engagment issue gets sorted, you'll love the feel of it. goodluck.
03-21-2007, 01:36 PM
#43
9 Second Club
Originally Posted by TNTramair
I bought one of the first runs of these Textralia clutches when they first came out and i can tell you ive never been happier with any other clutch. thankfully, i didnt have any of these issues.
since im putting a new motor in with a ton more power im lookin to upgrade to an Exoskel.
i hope you figure it out cause i know once your engagment issue gets sorted, you'll love the feel of it. goodluck.
since im putting a new motor in with a ton more power im lookin to upgrade to an Exoskel.
i hope you figure it out cause i know once your engagment issue gets sorted, you'll love the feel of it. goodluck.
Pedal feels like stock, and drives like stock. Hell, when I removed it fo fit a new tranny, I'd say after all that abuse, its only just fully broke in !!
11-19-2007, 04:32 PM
#44
I just noticed today that when I put the car on a flat surface, push the clutch in and put it in gear the car starts moving forward. I guess my clutch is dragging. These problems occured when I put the new clutch and slave cylinder in. If the pressure plate bolts didn't back out should I shim the slave and replace it.
11-23-2007, 08:16 PM
#45
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I know most people are very happy with their Tex's, and the customer service is top notch. For some reason I never could get one to work for me. The LS7 has been a much better experience for me.
11-24-2007, 06:12 AM
#46
I had the same problem with two different pressure plates from Textralia. To their credit every time they offered to replace parts to make good. Eventually I got tired of paying to have the clutch R&R'd and put in an LS7. I am much happier with the LS7. Unfortunately I think my syncros were damaged from the miles I put on with the dragging Textralia which now sits in my basement.
I know most people are very happy with their Tex's, and the customer service is top notch. For some reason I never could get one to work for me. The LS7 has been a much better experience for me.
I know most people are very happy with their Tex's, and the customer service is top notch. For some reason I never could get one to work for me. The LS7 has been a much better experience for me.
11-24-2007, 12:51 PM
#47
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Cooked fluid can definitely cause these types of problems.
Here's what I did (albeit not cheap):
1. Added a bleeder extension line to the slave cylinder so that the bleeder screw is back up by the master cylinder reservoir (steve-d on here makes them).
2. Wrapped BOTH lines in heat wrap on the WHOLE line. I put shrink wrap tubing around that to make sure nothing would move or come unwrapped.
3. Used a good DOT 4 brake fluid for the hydraulics (Ate Super Blue)
4. Bought a pressure bleeder from Motive along with the right adapter for the clutch master reservoir. Pressurize it, open the bleeder screw, and watch the bubbles come out.
I haven't had a bit of trouble since.
Here's what I did (albeit not cheap):
1. Added a bleeder extension line to the slave cylinder so that the bleeder screw is back up by the master cylinder reservoir (steve-d on here makes them).
2. Wrapped BOTH lines in heat wrap on the WHOLE line. I put shrink wrap tubing around that to make sure nothing would move or come unwrapped.
3. Used a good DOT 4 brake fluid for the hydraulics (Ate Super Blue)
4. Bought a pressure bleeder from Motive along with the right adapter for the clutch master reservoir. Pressurize it, open the bleeder screw, and watch the bubbles come out.
I haven't had a bit of trouble since.
I already ordered the Remote Bleeder Extension
Which Motive Adapter fits the Clutch Fluid Resivor?
http://www.motiveproducts.com/03adapters.html
11-25-2007, 01:14 AM
#48
Teching In
I have an OZ 700 with ~2K on it, a new Bendix slave, a new OEM master, a SS hard clutch line and a SS remote bleeder. I run Motul fluid, have bled with both the pump the pedal method and vacuum bleeding. At high rpm, over ~5500, I have difficulty shifting into 2, 3 and 4th...as in at the track. On the street, normal driving, it's OK. I'm banging my head on the wall with this now. I've read about a term called 'centrifugal apply' where at high rpm the PP has a problem. I've got an email into Textralia now. Frustration, oh yeh!
Tom.
PS: Oh, and I STILL lose some pedal firmess at WOT despite everything I've done!
Tom.
PS: Oh, and I STILL lose some pedal firmess at WOT despite everything I've done!
Last edited by Yowzerman; 12-15-2007 at 06:35 PM.
11-25-2007, 07:59 AM
#50
I have an OZ 700 with ~5K on it, a new Bendix slave, a new OEM master, a SS hard clutch line and a SS remote bleeder. I run Motul fluid, have bled with both the pump the pedal method and vacuum bleeding. At high rpm, over ~5500, I have difficulty shifting into 2, 3 and 4th...as in at the track. On the street, normal driving, it's OK. I'm banging my head on the wall with this now. I've read about a term called 'centrifugal apply' where at high rpm the PP has a problem. I've got an email into Textralia now. Frustration, oh yeh!
Tom.
PS: Oh, and I STILL lose some pedal firmess at WOT despite everything I've done!
Tom.
PS: Oh, and I STILL lose some pedal firmess at WOT despite everything I've done!
11-26-2007, 12:42 AM
#51
Teching In
11-27-2007, 05:18 AM
#54
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before when i was n/a (~450/430) i never had a problem with this. i could power shift it all day long at the track and it never missed a beat. now with fi (~660/680) it has problems. it didn't start immediately after i went fi, but probably the 3rd time out a the track.
my manifolds are not near the tranny, but the turbos are. but with that said as well; Tom is n/a and this is happening with lsx cars altogether, so i would tend to think that is not the case.
my manifolds are not near the tranny, but the turbos are. but with that said as well; Tom is n/a and this is happening with lsx cars altogether, so i would tend to think that is not the case.
11-27-2007, 05:57 AM
#55
My clutch line has been double wrapped and behind a heat shield so that has little to do with it. After close inspection, and having the clutch looked at....the problem is nothing more then needed an adjustable master to get alittle more pedal travel. Finally on my way to getting everything straightened out.
11-27-2007, 07:23 AM
#56
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My clutch line has been double wrapped and behind a heat shield so that has little to do with it. After close inspection, and having the clutch looked at....the problem is nothing more then needed an adjustable master to get alittle more pedal travel. Finally on my way to getting everything straightened out.
11-27-2007, 05:44 PM
#58
could shimming the slave cylinder/throw out bearing accomplish the same result? lifting the contact point higher in the pedal, thus giving you more pedal travel. just from searching the forums here i've seen some people not too thrilled with the adjustable master cylinder.
11-27-2007, 11:10 PM
#59
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A shim will not do anything to resolve clutch drag.
If someone has an issue, the best way to get in touch with us is via email.
admin@textralia.com.au
So anyone, and I mean anyone who has an issue then send us an email, and we'll get back to you straight away.
-Jarrod
If someone has an issue, the best way to get in touch with us is via email.
admin@textralia.com.au
So anyone, and I mean anyone who has an issue then send us an email, and we'll get back to you straight away.
-Jarrod
11-28-2007, 02:18 AM
#60
Teching In
A shim will not do anything to resolve clutch drag.
If someone has an issue, the best way to get in touch with us is via email.
admin@textralia.com.au
So anyone, and I mean anyone who has an issue then send us an email, and we'll get back to you straight away.
-Jarrod
If someone has an issue, the best way to get in touch with us is via email.
admin@textralia.com.au
So anyone, and I mean anyone who has an issue then send us an email, and we'll get back to you straight away.
-Jarrod
Tom.