SoCal01z28

iTrader: (11)

i've had my mcleod for about 5000 miles and it's going out on my already, the pedal engagement is very inconsistent and it's starting to leak fluid thru the rod seal. not too happy about it considering the price, im probably gonna go back to a stock master.

SoCal01z28

iTrader: (11)

for what its worth, mcleod is a couple blocks from where i live, i went over there today and talked to a tech there, he gave me a rebuild kit for free and let me borrow his cylinder hone, so there customer support isn't bad to say the least.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

I'm probably going to play it safe and just get the newer style master and slave from GM.

Okay, I still haven't read all the fine print on the drill mod. Is this something you do to the new (or currently being used) master cylinder itself? Hence, can I just drill the new one before its installed?

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

For the record, $140 is pretty high for the GM slave cylinder.....we sell them at $109.99 every day!

A-Dub

iTrader: (6)

CALL911,

Let me know how that works for you. I am having similar problems with mine, grinds into third and 4th at low rpms. I searched for bad synchro, rebuild synchro, and worn synchro. I got the impression that a bad master cylinder usually caused weak pedal feel symptoms rather than grinding.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

It will be a few weeks before I can afford buying them. But when I do and they are installed I'll update this thread.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

Actaully, your website is showing $114.23, whereas GMpartsdirect has it as $105.71

Do you match/beat other companies prices? If so I will be giving you a call. Not only on the slave but the master as well. Your price for the master cylinder $152.03, and GMpartsdirect $120.16.

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

Nobody out there can really "price match" GMPD because their handling charges aren't shown on a quote until you check out. Ask anyon here who's tried both of us, and they'll tell you that we're more affordable (no handling charges and we charge cost on freight). There are plenty of guys on here who have bought their LS7 clutch kits, slave cylinder, master, etc from us that can attest to this.

badpewter-z

iTrader: (4)

i was just going a little lower then list , i dont have full acceses anymore that i left the dealer

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Stock stuff works fine. I agree that it's your best bet, as long as your not looking for clutch pedal adjustability.

Theres a metal restrictor in the steel braided line that connects to slave... Pull the line, put it in a vice and drill out the metal restrictor. Clean the inside of the braided line thoroughly afterwards, and you're ready to go.

SDPC has really good prices. And I can attest to the higher shipping costs of gmpartsdirect.com. Do yourself a favor, and go through them. The price will be equal to, or more likely cheaper. And as a bonus, you'll be supporting a board sponsor.

BirdmanLS1

iTrader: (3)

I would like to know how this all works out for u too. I have grinding in lower rpms sometimes also. Im thinkin i need to bleed my lines well, do the drill mod and get a newer master cyliner.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Another stupid thing to check... Trans. fluid level! Especially if you're buying something second hand...

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

Alright, sorry to resurect this thread, but I just ordered the GM master (part#12570277), and the GM Slave (part#15046288).

My question at this point is, since I have the new components, do I need to do the drill mod still? Or will it be pointless since the upgraded ones are better?

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Stocker made adjustable, check the sticky;
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/317767-stock-adjustable-master-cylinder-writeup.html
Either that or any other master from the sponsors than the McLeod will be a mod'd stocker.

SoCal01z28

iTrader: (11)

the upgraded ones aren't better performance wise, they're just less likely to blow seals out.

and yes, you still need the drill mod