Which master cylinder to upgrade to?
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Originally Posted by CALL911
I know I can just upgrade to the newer LS1 master cylinders. That wasn't exactly what I was asking. I wanted to know which one I should upgrade to? Which is the best for the money?
#5
I have found that Mcloud offers an adjustable master cylinder for around $375 most places.
I also found that Ram makes an upgraded master cylinder as well for only around $175.
Are there any others? Will the Ram master cylinder do the job even though it costs less than half of the Mcloud?
I also found that Ram makes an upgraded master cylinder as well for only around $175.
Are there any others? Will the Ram master cylinder do the job even though it costs less than half of the Mcloud?
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Originally Posted by CALL911
I have found that Mcloud offers an adjustable master cylinder for around $375 most places.
I also found that Ram makes an upgraded master cylinder as well for only around $175.
Are there any others? Will the Ram master cylinder do the job even though it costs less than half of the Mcloud?
I also found that Ram makes an upgraded master cylinder as well for only around $175.
Are there any others? Will the Ram master cylinder do the job even though it costs less than half of the Mcloud?
#7
Well I just got the car a week ago, and the guy I bought it off of had it for 3 years and only put 7,000 miles on it. Long story short here, I'm not sure what clutch is in it. If I were to guess, I would say the stock one. It is a bone stock car, and it has 88,200 miles on it. The clutch seems to work fine (no slipping that I have noticed). The issue seems to be more of grinding gears inconsistantly when trying to shift. This leads me to believe it is the master cylinder.
I can install a Mcloud, or a Ram master cylinder to the stock clutch can't I? I also have heard I need to do the drill upgrade.
I can install a Mcloud, or a Ram master cylinder to the stock clutch can't I? I also have heard I need to do the drill upgrade.
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12570277 is the GM master you want. the vettes are different and will not work in an fbody. also once you get it do the drill mod as the new unit still has the restriction in it
unless you need the adjustability theres no reason to run an aftermarket master
unless you need the adjustability theres no reason to run an aftermarket master
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Originally Posted by CALL911
So are you saying the new 01, and 02 master cylinders are just as good as the Ram non adjustable aftermarket one?
Also, I have read a little on the drill mod. How hard is it to do?
Also, I have read a little on the drill mod. How hard is it to do?
To do the drill mod when you replace the master just remove the braided line from it and drill out the little restrictor plate that is inside of the line, its very easy. That was the first mod i did when i bought my car. Well worth it too, it stopped my high rpm grinding while shifting.
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Originally Posted by CALL911
So are you saying the new 01, and 02 master cylinders are just as good as the Ram aftermarket one?
Also, I have read a little on the drill mod. How hard is it to do?
Also, I have read a little on the drill mod. How hard is it to do?
Drill mod isnt that bad to do espically if its not even in the car yet
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I would just replace it with a GM one. Definately do the drill mod. I just replaced mine at the same time that I put in a new clutch. It made a big difference in high RPM shifting. My old master cylinder only had 50k on it and it was toast. It also depends on what clutch you are using. I had bought the Mcleod and installed it with the stock clutch and it worked ok. No better than the stock one and then I got a Textralia clutch which is supposed to be used with stock hydraulics so I had to switch back to a GM master cylinder.
#20
Originally Posted by SilverSierra
Am I the only one thats thinks the master cylinder won't solve your problems? If your only symptom is grinding gears when shifting, then I would bet your synchros are wearing out. They will cause inconsistent grinding until they get really worn.
The car has the grinding issues at low RPM shifts, it holds it in gear when it does go into gear, the grinding has been found in almost all the gears (not just one particular one or two) and it has never done it on a down shift. This just does not seem like the syncros to me. Especially given that it is a fact that the 98-00 year LS1's had several problems with their slave and master cylinders. Enough were they changed the design for the last two year models.