Which master cylinder to upgrade to?
#21
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i've had my mcleod for about 5000 miles and it's going out on my already, the pedal engagement is very inconsistent and it's starting to leak fluid thru the rod seal. not too happy about it considering the price, im probably gonna go back to a stock master.
#22
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Originally Posted by SoCal01z28
i've had my mcleod for about 5000 miles and it's going out on my already, the pedal engagement is very inconsistent and it's starting to leak fluid thru the rod seal. not too happy about it considering the price, im probably gonna go back to a stock master.
#23
I'm probably going to play it safe and just get the newer style master and slave from GM.
Okay, I still haven't read all the fine print on the drill mod. Is this something you do to the new (or currently being used) master cylinder itself? Hence, can I just drill the new one before its installed?
Okay, I still haven't read all the fine print on the drill mod. Is this something you do to the new (or currently being used) master cylinder itself? Hence, can I just drill the new one before its installed?
#24
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Originally Posted by badpewter-z
15046288 about 140ish for the GM slave and i would defiently cahnge that while your in there
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#25
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CALL911,
Let me know how that works for you. I am having similar problems with mine, grinds into third and 4th at low rpms. I searched for bad synchro, rebuild synchro, and worn synchro. I got the impression that a bad master cylinder usually caused weak pedal feel symptoms rather than grinding.
Let me know how that works for you. I am having similar problems with mine, grinds into third and 4th at low rpms. I searched for bad synchro, rebuild synchro, and worn synchro. I got the impression that a bad master cylinder usually caused weak pedal feel symptoms rather than grinding.
#27
Originally Posted by Matt @ SDPC
For the record, $140 is pretty high for the GM slave cylinder.....we sell them at $109.99 every day!
Do you match/beat other companies prices? If so I will be giving you a call. Not only on the slave but the master as well. Your price for the master cylinder $152.03, and GMpartsdirect $120.16.
#28
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Nobody out there can really "price match" GMPD because their handling charges aren't shown on a quote until you check out. Ask anyon here who's tried both of us, and they'll tell you that we're more affordable (no handling charges and we charge cost on freight). There are plenty of guys on here who have bought their LS7 clutch kits, slave cylinder, master, etc from us that can attest to this.
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#29
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Originally Posted by Matt @ SDPC
For the record, $140 is pretty high for the GM slave cylinder.....we sell them at $109.99 every day!
#30
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Stock stuff works fine. I agree that it's your best bet, as long as your not looking for clutch pedal adjustability.
Theres a metal restrictor in the steel braided line that connects to slave... Pull the line, put it in a vice and drill out the metal restrictor. Clean the inside of the braided line thoroughly afterwards, and you're ready to go.
SDPC has really good prices. And I can attest to the higher shipping costs of gmpartsdirect.com. Do yourself a favor, and go through them. The price will be equal to, or more likely cheaper. And as a bonus, you'll be supporting a board sponsor.
Theres a metal restrictor in the steel braided line that connects to slave... Pull the line, put it in a vice and drill out the metal restrictor. Clean the inside of the braided line thoroughly afterwards, and you're ready to go.
SDPC has really good prices. And I can attest to the higher shipping costs of gmpartsdirect.com. Do yourself a favor, and go through them. The price will be equal to, or more likely cheaper. And as a bonus, you'll be supporting a board sponsor.
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I would like to know how this all works out for u too. I have grinding in lower rpms sometimes also. Im thinkin i need to bleed my lines well, do the drill mod and get a newer master cyliner.
#33
Alright, sorry to resurect this thread, but I just ordered the GM master (part#12570277), and the GM Slave (part#15046288).
My question at this point is, since I have the new components, do I need to do the drill mod still? Or will it be pointless since the upgraded ones are better?
My question at this point is, since I have the new components, do I need to do the drill mod still? Or will it be pointless since the upgraded ones are better?
#34
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Stocker made adjustable, check the sticky;
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/317767-stock-adjustable-master-cylinder-writeup.html
Either that or any other master from the sponsors than the McLeod will be a mod'd stocker.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/317767-stock-adjustable-master-cylinder-writeup.html
Either that or any other master from the sponsors than the McLeod will be a mod'd stocker.
#35
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Originally Posted by CALL911
Alright, sorry to resurect this thread, but I just ordered the GM master (part#12570277), and the GM Slave (part#15046288).
My question at this point is, since I have the new components, do I need to do the drill mod still? Or will it be pointless since the upgraded ones are better?
My question at this point is, since I have the new components, do I need to do the drill mod still? Or will it be pointless since the upgraded ones are better?
and yes, you still need the drill mod