Remote Clutch Bleeder
04-13-2007, 05:03 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by AppleMac
^spammer (trust me you don't want to do business with this guy)
He will do or say anything to make a quick sale.
A crush washer will work fine. That is what all other companies who make a speed bleeder use.
Direct off L.A.P.D's site (one of the largest manufactures of remote bleeders in the after-market T-56 world)
link was removed(non-sponsor)
He will do or say anything to make a quick sale.
A crush washer will work fine. That is what all other companies who make a speed bleeder use.
Direct off L.A.P.D's site (one of the largest manufactures of remote bleeders in the after-market T-56 world)
link was removed(non-sponsor)
Will it still work for a F-body? It's about 24" long.
I wonder if you could put a speed bleeder on it?
Last edited by brad8266; 04-13-2007 at 11:37 PM.
04-13-2007, 06:43 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Dragula
I just ordered this online. It says it's for a C5.
Will it still work for a F-body? It's about 24" long.
I wonder if you could put a speed bleeder on it?
Will it still work for a F-body? It's about 24" long.
I wonder if you could put a speed bleeder on it?
Not sure on the bleeder size but it is probably 3/8"-24
04-13-2007, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
NO, it WILL not work. Theres a reason its for a C5 and not F car but what do I know?
It will work... Not as optimal as a 180* bleeder, but it will work fine.
04-13-2007, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by AppleMac
There are people that do that. However a lot of people also do not recommend it.
Talk to Pete at Textralia and he will tell you to bleed it the traditional way.
I have a remote bleeder setup and it was almost too easy to use. The speed bleeder is what really makes it error proof.
Talk to Pete at Textralia and he will tell you to bleed it the traditional way.
I have a remote bleeder setup and it was almost too easy to use. The speed bleeder is what really makes it error proof.
04-14-2007, 08:23 AM
#29
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Its funny, you know what works on an F body, but you dont even have one! Of coarse the 90* fitting will work on youre Vette as that what it requires since the slave bleeder is right at the opening. I HATE wrong information and thats why Im persistant.
Heres a pic of the Vette and F body slaves, tell em how the 90 will work on the F body without kinking the **** out of the line.
F body
Vette
Notice the placement of the slave in relation to the outside of the bellhousing. If someone wants to build their own for a F body, it needs to be straight.
Heres a pic of the Vette and F body slaves, tell em how the 90 will work on the F body without kinking the **** out of the line.
F body
Vette
Notice the placement of the slave in relation to the outside of the bellhousing. If someone wants to build their own for a F body, it needs to be straight.
Last edited by brad8266; 04-14-2007 at 04:55 PM. Reason: removed product info(non-sponsor)
04-14-2007, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by AppleMac
Good point what do you know?
04-14-2007, 09:02 AM
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I snaked mine out the same hole as the slave hydraulic connection.
My slave quick disconnect looks a little different though.
Same trans here.
Changing 5 clutches does not make you an expert bud. That makes you a hobbyist.
Not quite sure how head/cam swaps have anything to do with this thread?
Looks like you are trying to prove that your ePenis is bigger...
Please just leave this thread with your dignity still intact Cow Boy.
My slave quick disconnect looks a little different though.
Same trans here.
Changing 5 clutches does not make you an expert bud. That makes you a hobbyist.
Not quite sure how head/cam swaps have anything to do with this thread?
Looks like you are trying to prove that your ePenis is bigger...
Please just leave this thread with your dignity still intact Cow Boy.
04-14-2007, 09:26 AM
#32
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I have no issues with diginity. I just want to see this setup on a F body with the 90* fitting. Its always funny that you resort to name calling. Boy, if you done represent that "typical Corvette attitude". No offence to other Vette owners, of coarse.
04-14-2007, 12:53 PM
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FWIW the 90 degree fitting is not the way to go on the f-body, if you have to snake it through where the disconnect is then you are running a high risk of the braided line getting punctured since its a tight squeeze through that small opening and you will have a lot of metal to metal contact between the line and the opening hole.
Last edited by brad8266; 04-14-2007 at 04:52 PM.
04-14-2007, 04:58 PM
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This thread is reopened at the request of the OP since he says there is a lot of interest in this. Any more linking of products that are being sold by non-sponsors will not be tolerated and the thread will be locked and deleted. If you guys have want to argue about the technical aspect of this part go right ahead. leave out the name calling, insults, and non-sponsor BS.
Last edited by brad8266; 04-15-2007 at 04:22 PM.
04-14-2007, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by brad8266
This thread is reopened at the request of the OP since he says there is a lot of interest in this. Any more linking of products that are being sold by non-sponsors will not be tolerated and the thread will be locked and deleted. If you guys have want to argue about the technical aspect of this part go right ahead. leave out the name calling, insults, and non-sponsor BS.
Last edited by brad8266; 04-15-2007 at 04:22 PM.
04-14-2007, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by brad8266
FWIW the 90 degree fitting is not the way to go on the f-body, if you have to snake it through where the disconnect is then you are running a high risk of the braided line getting punctured since its a tight squeeze through that small opening and you will have a lot of metal to metal contact between the line and the opening hole.
On a F body there is no room to snake out another line from the quick disconnect hole. That piece takes up the whole opening. That pic is a standard normal slave for a F body. I can post about 4 more if needed.
The Vette setup is different.
04-14-2007, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
On a F body there is no room to snake out another line from the quick disconnect hole. That piece takes up the whole opening. That pic is a standard normal slave for a F body. I can post about 4 more if needed.
The Vette setup is different.
The Vette setup is different.
Problem solved.
04-15-2007, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
On a F body there is no room to snake out another line from the quick disconnect hole. That piece takes up the whole opening. That pic is a standard normal slave for a F body. I can post about 4 more if needed.
The Vette setup is different.
The Vette setup is different.
04-15-2007, 08:36 AM
#39
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On the tech side of it, if you use a crush washer, make sure the surface is machined flat with NO irregularities. Cursh washers are made for flat surfaces. Any cast (like a stock slave surface) with irregularities and the crush washer will leak. We use a stock type gasket/ washer for ours so it will conform around any irregularities and its also made to.
Also, brake fluid will break down normal thread sealent, so find so thread sealent that can withstand brake fluid (that was a hard one to find).
Also, brake fluid will break down normal thread sealent, so find so thread sealent that can withstand brake fluid (that was a hard one to find).
04-15-2007, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
On the tech side of it, if you use a crush washer, make sure the surface is machined flat with NO irregularities. Cursh washers are made for flat surfaces. Any cast (like a stock slave surface) with irregularities and the crush washer will leak. We use a stock type gasket/ washer for ours so it will conform around any irregularities and its also made to.
Also, brake fluid will break down normal thread sealent, so find so thread sealent that can withstand brake fluid (that was a hard one to find).
Also, brake fluid will break down normal thread sealent, so find so thread sealent that can withstand brake fluid (that was a hard one to find).
This was the reason I originally provided the L.A.P.D link was to show that they use crush washers and that they work fine. You are blowing this whole needing to be machined WAY out of proportion. We are not building a rocket ship here... Hundreds of members on the site are using crush washers with no problems. In fact you are the first person I have seen that uses a "special" washer. The crush washer will do just what its name is. It will crush and conform to the surface. The slave surface is far from as "bumpy" as you are making it out to be.
Here is an image of a remote bleeder connected to a slave. See the crush washer? Notice how the surface is rather smooth. (Note this picture was taken from L.A.P.D's site)
Normal thread sealant should be fine guys. That is what GM uses. If it is good enough for GM it is good enough for me. They use it on everything from transmissions to brake fittings. I have used it for years with out any problems.
Just did a simple google search and found that Permatex High temp thread sealer will work great. (You can get this at any local auto store.)
It specifically says: resists leakage, vibration loosening, moisture, hydraulic fluids and diesel fuels
I really do not appreciate you trying to discredit this thread as you have been proven wrong several times.
1st you said a crush washer wont work, and I gave you solid proof that it does work and major manufacturers use the crush washer on remote bleeders.
2nd you said you need special thread sealant "which is hard to find", I provided you with info that regular Permatex thread sealant is designed for this application.
Lets keep this on topic..
Ok guys now that, that was cleared up anyone have any questions? Lets get some pictures of your home-made bleeders posted up!
Last edited by brad8266; 04-15-2007 at 04:24 PM.