Remote Clutch Bleeder
01-27-2009, 08:32 PM
#82
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Which parts did you buy? These two parts go together:
4. Female 10x1.0mm Metric concave seat to -4 Steel (pegasus part# 3265-19)
5. 10mmx1 bleed screw (bought at NAPA).
part#4 I did not see available at Summit. Perhaps you have the wrong part.
See link http://ls1bmw.blogspot.com/2007/06/c...leed-line.html for how the parts are layed out.
4. Female 10x1.0mm Metric concave seat to -4 Steel (pegasus part# 3265-19)
5. 10mmx1 bleed screw (bought at NAPA).
part#4 I did not see available at Summit. Perhaps you have the wrong part.
See link http://ls1bmw.blogspot.com/2007/06/c...leed-line.html for how the parts are layed out.
hopefully I can find the pegasus fitting and be able to use the parts I bought--doing clutch install this saturday
06-21-2010, 03:45 PM
#83
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Clutch Remote Bleeder Hello Everyone
I have a 1986 Porsche 944, that I dropped a 2005 GTO LS2 into, I have looked and read and even bought one of the Remote bleeders from Tick Performance.
Although they worked, I was concerned about the copper washer and the depth of the -3AN fitting (getting it tight on the adapter), so I approached Speedbleeder and Mike has developed an adapter that fits (without a crush washer) the stock sealing surface, with a -3 AN on the other side. Also, the other end of the remote bleeder is a speedbleeder, all you need to do is hook up the silicone hose and bleed it everyday if you want, 5 minutes tops
The adapter is a 10mmX1.5 thread with the correct sealing surface as on the bottom of the bleeder hole in the clutch, with a longer shank and a -3AN Male fitting on the outside end.
So if you want 90 degree and straight at 30 inches then that's what you buy. If you only need 2 straights and 14 inches like I do, not a problem just order it that way.
He also sells the adapter for the other side, that accepts the Speedbleeder adapter, also with the -3AN Male fitting.
Mike can be reached at 1 888 879 7016
This is not advertising, I just wish to share my Discovery and only wish I had this information before
I have a 1986 Porsche 944, that I dropped a 2005 GTO LS2 into, I have looked and read and even bought one of the Remote bleeders from Tick Performance.
Although they worked, I was concerned about the copper washer and the depth of the -3AN fitting (getting it tight on the adapter), so I approached Speedbleeder and Mike has developed an adapter that fits (without a crush washer) the stock sealing surface, with a -3 AN on the other side. Also, the other end of the remote bleeder is a speedbleeder, all you need to do is hook up the silicone hose and bleed it everyday if you want, 5 minutes tops
The adapter is a 10mmX1.5 thread with the correct sealing surface as on the bottom of the bleeder hole in the clutch, with a longer shank and a -3AN Male fitting on the outside end.
So if you want 90 degree and straight at 30 inches then that's what you buy. If you only need 2 straights and 14 inches like I do, not a problem just order it that way.
He also sells the adapter for the other side, that accepts the Speedbleeder adapter, also with the -3AN Male fitting.
Mike can be reached at 1 888 879 7016
This is not advertising, I just wish to share my Discovery and only wish I had this information before
06-22-2010, 08:35 PM
#84
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Um, not being a smart *** but I just read this whole thread. Tick sells a remote bleeder and they sell it for 49 dollars and like 8 bucks shipping. Now, by my addition, thats only 57 bucks. Shipped. To your door. SOOOOOO, you just saved 10 bucks? And you had to put it together yourself. And you had to order all this other **** and take the chance of it being the wrong parts? I'm not really understanding why you are doing this. I mean, if every remote bleeder was 1000 bucks and you could put one together for 50, well then now we are talking. But I'm not personally going through all this for a 10 savings. Just my humble, humble opinion.
06-23-2010, 09:27 PM
#85
1. Top off master with fluid
2. Pump a few times and hold pedal down.
3. Crack bleeder open while holding pedal down.
4. Close bleeder when fluid stops squirting out.
5. Release pedal and pump a few times.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 until pedal has full pressure.
It takes a while to get the pedal to build pressure if the system was dry, it took me like 30 minutes to bleed it all the way.
2. Pump a few times and hold pedal down.
3. Crack bleeder open while holding pedal down.
4. Close bleeder when fluid stops squirting out.
5. Release pedal and pump a few times.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 until pedal has full pressure.
It takes a while to get the pedal to build pressure if the system was dry, it took me like 30 minutes to bleed it all the way.
LPP is a new sponsor on LS1 Tech
We are making remote bleeders for the clutch. With this bleeder you can run it up to the engine compartment or out under the car to bleed the clutch. It also has a speed bleeder on the end so it's a one man operation to bleed the clutch. We are only getting top of the line parts to make them. One of the problems with making them is getting the fitting for the slave cylinder that will seal and not leak since it's not a machined surface. We have found what they call a bonded washer that will seal under high pressure to use on the fitting. We have also found a sealant to use on the threads that will not break down from the brake fluid. This provides a double seal for the fitting. We will be selling them for $75 with Free Shipping. Here's some pictures of them.
If interested you can contact us at lpp@tampabay.rr.com
We are making remote bleeders for the clutch. With this bleeder you can run it up to the engine compartment or out under the car to bleed the clutch. It also has a speed bleeder on the end so it's a one man operation to bleed the clutch. We are only getting top of the line parts to make them. One of the problems with making them is getting the fitting for the slave cylinder that will seal and not leak since it's not a machined surface. We have found what they call a bonded washer that will seal under high pressure to use on the fitting. We have also found a sealant to use on the threads that will not break down from the brake fluid. This provides a double seal for the fitting. We will be selling them for $75 with Free Shipping. Here's some pictures of them.
If interested you can contact us at lpp@tampabay.rr.com
NAME BRAND products assembled myself. 
04-26-2011, 10:29 AM
#90
you cant post URLs if they're not sponsors.
but you can just type in "snlperformance" in google.
This old thread reminds me... I still have a brand new clutch bleeder in a bag somewhere... I should dig it out.. according to half the post in this thread, its worth $50... LOL.
but you can just type in "snlperformance" in google.
This old thread reminds me... I still have a brand new clutch bleeder in a bag somewhere... I should dig it out.. according to half the post in this thread, its worth $50... LOL.
05-19-2015, 10:08 PM
#91
Well guys I know this is an old thread I'm bringing back but I wanted to post in it for others that may be doing research on this. I'm not trying to stir the pot, there are two camps on this issue people that are ok with a crush washer sealing on an unfinished cast surface, and people that are want a nice machined surface for the crush washer to seal on.
The right way to do this is to have a machined surface for the washer OR properly seal on the flare in the slave cylinder, as the OEM bleeder does. I don't want to take the risk of having clutch fluid get all over my $800 clutch I just replaced. On top of the work to break it all down to replace it.
The way I understand it is the aftermarket SC's have machined surfaces GM SC's do not its just cast and has some pretty nasty flashing from the mold.
If you want to do it right, you basically can't. In my searches there was no clear evidence of an off the shelf fitting that would work. My remote bleeder did come with a fitting that seems could work but I could not confirm if the flare was the right angle (Aeroquip FBM2966, Thanks 'Project GatTagO'). But most importantly it was not long enough to seat on the flare. So technically you could grind down some material off the SC at the bleeder connection to try to get that fitting to seal on the flare instead of the crush washer. I ended up going to a local hydraulic shop and what they did was:
- Cut the factory bleeder down.
- Braze shut the hole on the side of the OEM bleeder.
- Braze on an AN fitting (for the braided brake line for the remote bleeder).
- Drill a hole down the middle of the fitting to allow air and fluid to pass through.
The whole thing cost me $10 and now I am 100% positive that I won't have any leaking issues (at least at that joint!)
In the picture below:
OEM GM SC on the left (surface not machined), Aftermarket SC on the right (machined surface).
Fitting on the left is the one made. IF you look close it shows the drilling in the center as well as the hole brazed shut on the side (hard to see)
Fitting on the right is the Aeroquip (I'm pretty sure) and it is what came with my remote bleeder.
A Close up of the fittings
The right way to do this is to have a machined surface for the washer OR properly seal on the flare in the slave cylinder, as the OEM bleeder does. I don't want to take the risk of having clutch fluid get all over my $800 clutch I just replaced. On top of the work to break it all down to replace it.
The way I understand it is the aftermarket SC's have machined surfaces GM SC's do not its just cast and has some pretty nasty flashing from the mold.
If you want to do it right, you basically can't. In my searches there was no clear evidence of an off the shelf fitting that would work. My remote bleeder did come with a fitting that seems could work but I could not confirm if the flare was the right angle (Aeroquip FBM2966, Thanks 'Project GatTagO'). But most importantly it was not long enough to seat on the flare. So technically you could grind down some material off the SC at the bleeder connection to try to get that fitting to seal on the flare instead of the crush washer. I ended up going to a local hydraulic shop and what they did was:
- Cut the factory bleeder down.
- Braze shut the hole on the side of the OEM bleeder.
- Braze on an AN fitting (for the braided brake line for the remote bleeder).
- Drill a hole down the middle of the fitting to allow air and fluid to pass through.
The whole thing cost me $10 and now I am 100% positive that I won't have any leaking issues (at least at that joint!)
In the picture below:
OEM GM SC on the left (surface not machined), Aftermarket SC on the right (machined surface).
Fitting on the left is the one made. IF you look close it shows the drilling in the center as well as the hole brazed shut on the side (hard to see)
Fitting on the right is the Aeroquip (I'm pretty sure) and it is what came with my remote bleeder.
A Close up of the fittings
