Remote Clutch Bleeder
04-02-2007, 06:03 PM
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Remote Clutch Bleeder Hey guys,
Here is a complete parts list to build yourself a remote bleeder:
Everything is from Summit.
AER-FBM2937
Fittings, Brake, Steel, Zinc Plated, Male -4 AN to Female 3/8 in.-24 Thread, Inverted Flare, Pair
(Quantity = 1 of the above item)
EAR-177100ERL
Crush Washers, Crush Washers, 10mm Fitting, 10mm I.D., Aluminum, Set of 5
(Quantity = 1 of the above item)
EAR-64191936ERL
Brake Line, Speed-Flex, Braided Stainless Steel Hose, Female -4 AN to Female -4 AN, 36 in. Long, Each
(Quantity = 2 of the above item)
EAR-9919BFDERL
Fitting, Adapter, AN Flare to Metric, -4 AN to 10mm x 1.5 Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each
(Quantity = 2 of the above item)
RUS-639590
Brake Bleeders, Speed Bleeders, 3/ 8 in.-24 Thread, 1 in. Overall Length, Steel, Pair
NOTE: With the above quantities you will be able to build 2 remote bleeders. (I did this because 2 of the parts above are sold in pairs) You can just sell the second remote bleeder on here and that will save you some money.
Total Price = 96.12
Price per bleeder = 48.06
ADDITIONAL INFO
When installing you need to use -AN wrenches, do not use metric or "english" sizes. If you don't have -AN wrenches then adjustable crescent wrenches will work fine. (-AN is a different size than metric and "english." If you use metric or "english" you risk stripping the fitting)
Keep in mind you will also need thread sealant and brake fluid for the install.
Here is a complete parts list to build yourself a remote bleeder:
Everything is from Summit.
AER-FBM2937
Fittings, Brake, Steel, Zinc Plated, Male -4 AN to Female 3/8 in.-24 Thread, Inverted Flare, Pair
(Quantity = 1 of the above item)
EAR-177100ERL
Crush Washers, Crush Washers, 10mm Fitting, 10mm I.D., Aluminum, Set of 5
(Quantity = 1 of the above item)
EAR-64191936ERL
Brake Line, Speed-Flex, Braided Stainless Steel Hose, Female -4 AN to Female -4 AN, 36 in. Long, Each
(Quantity = 2 of the above item)
EAR-9919BFDERL
Fitting, Adapter, AN Flare to Metric, -4 AN to 10mm x 1.5 Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each
(Quantity = 2 of the above item)
RUS-639590
Brake Bleeders, Speed Bleeders, 3/ 8 in.-24 Thread, 1 in. Overall Length, Steel, Pair
NOTE: With the above quantities you will be able to build 2 remote bleeders. (I did this because 2 of the parts above are sold in pairs) You can just sell the second remote bleeder on here and that will save you some money.
Total Price = 96.12
Price per bleeder = 48.06
ADDITIONAL INFO
When installing you need to use -AN wrenches, do not use metric or "english" sizes. If you don't have -AN wrenches then adjustable crescent wrenches will work fine. (-AN is a different size than metric and "english." If you use metric or "english" you risk stripping the fitting)
Keep in mind you will also need thread sealant and brake fluid for the install.
Last edited by brad8266; 04-13-2007 at 11:31 PM. Reason: Removed non-sponsor link
04-02-2007, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
Could you use something like this to do the job?
Vacuum pump bleeder, link was removed(non-sponsor)
Vacuum pump bleeder, link was removed(non-sponsor)
Talk to Pete at Textralia and he will tell you to bleed it the traditional way.
I have a remote bleeder setup and it was almost too easy to use. The speed bleeder is what really makes it error proof.
Last edited by brad8266; 04-13-2007 at 11:34 PM. Reason: removed non-sponsor link
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04-02-2007, 07:43 PM
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Just an FYI, a crush washer will not work if you have a stock GM slave as the surface isnt machined flat. Ive had a few GM slaves in my hands and NONE of them are machined flat. They are cast.
Last edited by brad8266; 04-14-2007 at 04:53 PM. Reason: removed product info(non-sponsor)
04-02-2007, 07:58 PM
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A crush washer will work fine. That is what all other companies who make a speed bleeder use.
Direct off L.A.P.D's site (one of the largest manufactures of remote bleeders in the after-market T-56 world)
link was removed(non-sponsor)
Direct off L.A.P.D's site (one of the largest manufactures of remote bleeders in the after-market T-56 world)
Originally Posted by L.A.P.D
Introducing our patent pending exclusive innovation! Our clutch bleeder kit installs directly into your slave allowing you to easily bleed your clutch by simply raising your hood and extracting your clutch fluid all in about 5 minutes. Kit includes stainless steel line, crush washer and fittings complete with no assembly required. Our clutch bleeder kit is a complete plug and play system. PLEASE NOTE: CRUSH WASHER SUPPLIED SHOULD BE REMOVED AND RE-INSTALLED ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FITTING WHERE THE CRUSH WASHER IS LOCATED WHEN INSTALLING ON THE VEHICLE. BASICALLY SWAP THE CRUSH WASHER TO THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE FITTING BEFORE INSTALLING.
Last edited by brad8266; 04-14-2007 at 04:54 PM. Reason: remove non-sponsor link
04-02-2007, 08:11 PM
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go for it and when it leaks due to the irregular surface, its your problem to pull the tranny and replace a ruined clutch that soaked up all that fluid.
Yep, I will do or say anything to make a sale. If you say so bud. My feedback proves it too.
Youre just pissed because we proved you wrong on your idea of a 90* fitting coming off the slave for a remote bleeder for a f-body.
Im not going to argue with you here either. Its the peoples time and money. They can decide for themselves. Ours is proven and works.
btw, before you make anymore claims, look up slander.
Yep, I will do or say anything to make a sale. If you say so bud. My feedback proves it too.
Youre just pissed because we proved you wrong on your idea of a 90* fitting coming off the slave for a remote bleeder for a f-body.Im not going to argue with you here either. Its the peoples time and money. They can decide for themselves. Ours is proven and works.
btw, before you make anymore claims, look up slander.
Originally Posted by AppleMac
^spammer (trust me you don't want to do business with this guy)
He will do or say anything to make a quick sale.
He will do or say anything to make a quick sale.
Last edited by brad8266; 04-14-2007 at 04:54 PM.
04-02-2007, 08:30 PM
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First of all I do not have a f-body. So my setup worked great on my car. It would have actually cost more to build it with a 90*. The parts list here is for a straight bleeder so everyone will be fine.
Second we are all using the same slave cylinder bodies. So a crush washer will work fine in all applications. And if I am not mistaken you are the one being proven wrong. You are the one following me around and you are the one who does not know when to shutup.
Third I am not making any money on this, you are making money on the remote bleeders you are selling. What motivation do I have to lie? Seems like you and your father are pissed that I have presented a parts list that is far cheaper than what you are charging. You think you can stop people from doing it themselves by placing some sort of doubt in their head. Your father saying that you "apply a special coating to the threads" when all you really do is put some regular old thread sealer on there. You saying that "A crush washer will not work" when that is what everyone uses and that is what they are meant for. What will you guys come up with next?
I have provided you with hard evidence that a crush washer will work fine. You decided to ignore that and say "Ours is proven and works." Wow that's mature. You may have 21 feedback, but why don't you call L.A.P.D or C.A.M and ask them how many hundreds of remote bleeders they have sold/installed with crush washers.
P.S. It is not slander when it is true
Please stay out of my thread. Start your own if you fell you must.
Second we are all using the same slave cylinder bodies. So a crush washer will work fine in all applications. And if I am not mistaken you are the one being proven wrong. You are the one following me around and you are the one who does not know when to shutup.
Third I am not making any money on this, you are making money on the remote bleeders you are selling. What motivation do I have to lie? Seems like you and your father are pissed that I have presented a parts list that is far cheaper than what you are charging. You think you can stop people from doing it themselves by placing some sort of doubt in their head. Your father saying that you "apply a special coating to the threads" when all you really do is put some regular old thread sealer on there. You saying that "A crush washer will not work" when that is what everyone uses and that is what they are meant for. What will you guys come up with next?
I have provided you with hard evidence that a crush washer will work fine. You decided to ignore that and say "Ours is proven and works." Wow that's mature. You may have 21 feedback, but why don't you call L.A.P.D or C.A.M and ask them how many hundreds of remote bleeders they have sold/installed with crush washers.
P.S. It is not slander when it is true
Please stay out of my thread. Start your own if you fell you must.
Originally Posted by Country Boy
go for it and when it leaks due to the irregular surface, its your problem to pull the tranny and replace a ruined clutch that soaked up all that fluid.
Yep, I will do or say anything to make a sale. If you say so bud. My feedback proves it too. Youre just pissed because we proved you wrong on your idea of a 90* fitting coming off the slave for a remote bleeder for a f-body.
Im not going to argue with you here either. Its the peoples time and money. They can decide for themselves. Ours is proven and works.
btw, before you make anymore claims, look up slander.
Yep, I will do or say anything to make a sale. If you say so bud. My feedback proves it too.
Youre just pissed because we proved you wrong on your idea of a 90* fitting coming off the slave for a remote bleeder for a f-body.Im not going to argue with you here either. Its the peoples time and money. They can decide for themselves. Ours is proven and works.
btw, before you make anymore claims, look up slander.
04-03-2007, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by locodave46
Hi, I'm re-bleeding the sons car tomorrow, again. Someing I need to add. Bleed it earlyer yesterday. Found out, do the access hole. If you can get a 7/16 th box end on the bleed, good luck! With out the hole. Now your dribblin, when opening, guessing if the air is outta the system. Down the bell. I want to see the bubbles come out. If you cut the accesss hole. You can push a clear plastic line into the center bleed hole, if long enough line. You can route the other end to the master, no need to keep replenshing the master. If you open the slave bleed too much. Did this earlyer & why re-do. Then your getting air thru the threads of the bleed screw. I'm also gonna try 1st. I have a windshield washer pump. Thinking. Lets reverse bleed. 1st, a DC motor. Reverse polarity & motor runs in reverse. If you 1st put the motor inline on drawing from the slave, plastic line just going to the master, from the slave. Apply power from a batt charger to operate the motor. Watch the air bubbles. Lines clear with air bubbles, get the air out. Then reverse polarity on the motor & draw from the slave to push fluid back to master? Just a thought on trying to fix a problem. Thoughts? Dave
I used to use a 1/4" socket and ratchet to open and close the stock bleeder. Yes, its a big PITA.
The F body and Vettes are completely different in respect to bleeders. Yes, a 90 will work on a vette but not a F car.
04-03-2007, 06:12 PM
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Dave, your posts are damn near impossible to read. Please put some effort into making them more readable. You seem like a smart guy...
1st off I do not like to vacuum bleed. I think good old "gravity" bleeding is the only way to go.
2nd It sounds like you cut into your bell housing... I would not do that too my car.
3rd never reuse old brake fluid!!
Why don't you put some thread sealer on your bleeder screw? (I am talking about thread sealer NOT thread locker)
Here is how you should bleed:
Crack bleeder screw
Press clutch to the floor and hold it there
Close the bleeder screw
Release clutch
Refill master cylinder reservoir
Repeat all the above steps in order until you are happy with engagement. (maybe 10 times...)
Dave, If you have anymore questions please start a new thread. What you are talking about really has nothing to do with a remote bleeder.
1st off I do not like to vacuum bleed. I think good old "gravity" bleeding is the only way to go.
2nd It sounds like you cut into your bell housing... I would not do that too my car.
3rd never reuse old brake fluid!!
Why don't you put some thread sealer on your bleeder screw? (I am talking about thread sealer NOT thread locker)
Here is how you should bleed:
Crack bleeder screw
Press clutch to the floor and hold it there
Close the bleeder screw
Release clutch
Refill master cylinder reservoir
Repeat all the above steps in order until you are happy with engagement. (maybe 10 times...)
Dave, If you have anymore questions please start a new thread. What you are talking about really has nothing to do with a remote bleeder.
04-03-2007, 08:06 PM
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Sorry for the long post. Had to bleed by gravity, with the engine running. Punched a mark from underneath to cut a access hole from inside the car by the gas petal. No didn't cut into the bell housing. Just the tunnel. Used new fluid & fuid in the car was 3 months old to begin with. Didn't want to take a chance on dropping the bleed screw down the bell housing. Didn't use sealer on the threads. Would of when it was out of the car. Thought this thread was about bleeding, remotely. Hand pump. But see it's about getting the bleed up where you can access it. Dave
