How much does Carl want for his?

 

1. Read this: http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html

2. If you contact Speed Bleeder, youll also find out that it requires a special thread sealent, but I guess they dont know what theyre talking about either. They also sell this funny "special" stuff.

Ill provide the picture tomorrow of the surface of the slave to show its not flat.

Please back up your posts with facts now.

 

^^^ good read.

 

Speed Bleeder is a very small company that sells their own thread sealant. Of course they would recommend their own brand over the stuff you get at Autozone! I can't believe you are paying $10 a bottle for that stuff!!! It is the same stuff you buy at an autoparts store. They just marked it up and put a new label on it. Do you honestly think Speed Bleeders sells the only thread sealant that you can use with brake fluid? Take a trip down to the track and ask the guys down there what they use that bleed there brakes before every race.

And here is your link:

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ad_Sealant.htm

(Brad this link should be ok since permatex does not sell directly. Purely informational)


Here is the "special" thread sealant I am talking about. Anyone can see this is just generic stuff repackaged.



Now that you have been proven wrong on that subject without a shadow of a doubt I will be moving on to my next point.

A CRUSH WASHER WILL WORK FINE. Contact any of the companies that actually make remote bleeders. (CAM, L.A.P.D, RAM, Howe, etc.) They ALL use a crush washer. Crush washers are meant to be used in high pressure situations.

I am running a remote bleeder right now with a crush washer and I have 0 problems.

Sorry, no links for this one, Not too many people have documentation about installing a remote bleeder on a slave. Feel free to contact any of the above companies.

On a side note your source is FAR from credible. http://www.dimebank.com/ is a very dinky little site run by a VERY small shop in CA. It looks like more of a hobby shop than an auto shop. Take a look at their homepage. Basically you found a little site that corroborated with your opinion. Nice!

But if you feel so strongly that you should use a "special" washer why don't you post some info up about what it is exactly, maybe some pics, and where people can get one.

If your sole point to buy your remote bleeder over this threads bleeder is that you have a better washer... well then the best of luck to you.

Can't imagine many people would find that enough of a reason to spend an additional $30.

 

yeah that link is cool since its not a direct buying page.

 

Nah, Im done proving my points. Ive said whats needed. People can make up their own minds. Ive proved you cant use the 90* fittings on a F body, Ive proved youre not supposed to use a crush washer on irregular surfaces, Ive proved you cant use just "normal" off the shelf thread sealent (That is not the stuff that is used for my Dads).

And just as a FYI, he doesnt even make $10 for the ones he sells. He just thought it would be nice to have since hes seen me cuss and throw **** while bleeding my clutch. Hell, its cheaper than LAPDs.

 

I agree that the 90* is not a good idea for f-bodies. This thread is about making a 180* bleeder though.

Not sure how you proved me wrong about the thread sealant. I gave you a link to Permatex's site that said it is meant to stand up to brake fluid (brake fluid is used in the clutch system). Did you even bother to read it? It says in plain english for "brake fittings."

I cited many LARGE PERFORMANCE companies that use crush washers on remote bleeders. You cited one little small auto hobby shop in CA that works on British cars.

Just because you and your dad do something a certain way does not mean it is the only way.

You really need to open your eyes man, and I am not trying to talk down to you.

But at this point it really seems like your are not listening. You said that you can not use regular thread sealer, I showed you that you could, provided you with a link, and gave you a description. Yet you continue on.

I just want everyone out there to know that I am gaining nothing from this remote bleeder. Not even a penny. I took the time to create this list and explain what you need to do. I have no reason to make things up or lie.

And from the documents/links I provided you can see that my information is spot on whether or not cowboy wants to face the facts.

 

bumping this one ttt

 

bump ttt

 

thanks, I'm going to need this for my swap on my truck

 

i bought mine off of some guy on FBRAXX (or whatever that fbody road race website is)..

it seals on the same tapered area as the oem bleeder screw... no crush washer used... while either one will work, i think its a better approch as there is less chance of the user having a problem from casting flash or whatever...

id have to pull it out to look at it, but its basically a brass insert, similar to a nitrous jet. the cone matches the bleeder seating surface....

 

Bumpy

 

I am ordering the parts today, thanks for all of the great info

 

How exactly do these remote bleeders work?

I understand the concept of it screwing in where the bleeder screw goes, but that screw has to be screwed in and out when bleeding. With the remote bleeder does the whole line screw in and out like the bleeder screw?

What is the bleeding process?

 

1. Top off master with fluid
2. Pump a few times and hold pedal down.
3. Crack bleeder open while holding pedal down.
4. Close bleeder when fluid stops squirting out.
5. Release pedal and pump a few times.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 until pedal has full pressure.

It takes a while to get the pedal to build pressure if the system was dry, it took me like 30 minutes to bleed it all the way.

 

I have bled my system many many times.

I just wanted to know the process if you have a remote bleeder installed?

 

anyone??

 

Ya, loosen the bleeder nip on the end of the hose and pump out air. Same process just with the bleeder in a more accesable place.

 

Its the same process just open the remote bleeder.

 

if you have a speedbleeder instead of a brake bleeder screw:


open the valve.
put the outlet of it into a jar or someplace brakefluid safe.
pump the pedal SLOWLY... checking fluid level reguarly.
tighten when air is out.



if you have a regular brake bleeder on the end of a line, you can submerge the brake bleeder so that it wont suck up air, but thsi only works to get the last bit of air thats at the very end of the brake line.. this doenst work well to bleed as the fluid just goes back and forth.. you want it to go one direction.