Well I dont know how many rememeber but I have been having a shifting problem ever since I had changed my clutch. It wasnt shifting really smooth at anyhting past around 3500-4000RPMs. I replaced everything with all new stuff when my clutch went out, including master, slve, brand new spec 2+ clutch, and resurfaced stock flywheel. After I got the clutch broke in I went to row threw the gears and it was like I was hitting a brick wall, in every gear. So we figured that it had to be the clutch since that was the only thing that wasnt new. Also the stocker had been turned twice that I knew of. So we was thining that it might had been machined to thin. So we changed it out, and amazingly it actually shifts now.

But I'm still having a little problem. We decided to leave the shim in since SPEC told me that their flywheels are actually made a bit thinner than a stock flywheel. And now when shifting hard you have to have the clutch all the way to the floor. Thinking maybe take out the shim?

 

Cool that you got it working ok, you are supposed to push the clutch to the floor whne shifting though so i wouldnt worry about that. You have done the drill mod right?

 

Yes done the drill mod, have never had any problems with spongy clutch feel or had it stick to the floor. The clutch engagment is supposed to be somewhere in the middle, not almot on the floor. You shouldnt have to push the clutch to the floor when hard shifting.

 

Right but some aftermarket clutches dont engage in the middle with the stock master, thats why many people have to go with an adjustable master.

 

taking the shim out will make it worse. you need more shim

 

Hey guys tell me something more about the drill mod. and i need to knw about where to find an adjustablle master cause all i can find is stock and after upgrades to my clutch (spec2 zo6) it dont disengage till almost the floor also.

 

So everyone seems to think I should add more shim? Is that a good idea to stack shims like that? Thanks for all the input guys! Keep it coming!

 

They just sit behind the slave, sticking them wont hurt anything.

 

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

Many sponsors sell adjustable masters.

 

blk00, you can add another shim if you like, I know you are local so come buy and I will be happy to provide you with one. As a side note, it is very rare for there to be a need for another shim. An adjustable Master is another option, as mentioned above, but my interest is in understanding why you need either. How far off the floor does the pedal engage? Let me know and we can go from there. Thanks,

 

The car will start lurching foward when the pedal gets around 2-3 inches off the floor or so. Next time I work this week I'll drive my car, and then head over there and let you drive and see what you think.

 

3" off the floor is not all that low. That being said I will be happy to look at it when you come by this week. Talk to you then; have a good evening!

 

I just read the tech article,so adjusting to clutch to your best position,does the clutch fully engage and disengage like it should no matter where you set it at on the adjustable master?Like it you want it at the bottom or you wanted it at the top,it will still have full engagement/disengagement????

 

I dont have an adjustable master cylinder, so I cant comment on that

 

anyone??

 

You adjust it to where you want, it should still work just fine, mine fully engages at the top, when i get motivated i will adjust it for full engagement at mid travel. I get full disengagement with the full engagement point at the top. If you have full engagement at the very bottom then you could run into problems with the clutch disengaging. But who really adjusts it so that the engagement point is at the bottom anyway?