brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Do a good intsall and break in and it will likely be just fine. I am happy with my 3+.

Cam02ss

iTrader: (8)

Well..I got the car back a couple weeks ago and the Spec did NOT like that 408 at all. Started slippin real bad so I replaced it with a Textralia Exoskel. Granted I had that Spec in for 2 1/2+ years and it was a great clutch while it lasted.

camd98z

iTrader: (1)

^ yep, me too. i only have 1 car and i cant take the clutch out and hang around with out my car. it was a pain in the *** when the stock clutch went out on me and i was relieved to have the new spec clutch in...now im bak to sq 1.

Trev_SS

iTrader: (17)

These is a good thread to be reading I have read things about spec before and I personally think that it is how you drive it. I have a Ram Powergrip HD right know, and it bucks really bad I am looking for something with a more stock feel. This Ram is in excellent shape, I don't ride my clutch at all i just dump it or let it out. When you slip a high performance clutch it will really wear it out fast. My Ram still holds as strong as it did the day I put it in. I like the rams holding power I just hate the bucking and shaking the car does when you are trying to slowly go in the car. I will more than likeley buy a spec 3+ soon because I am tired of having a clutch that is made for a race car. I daily drive and it is harder to do with this clutch

Torkman15

iTrader: (2)

It looks alot like "daily driver" and ragged edge high performance butt pucker machine are or SHOULD be two different units. You gotta pay to play. If you cant afford it you might consider trading your "daily driver" for a real daily driver like a 1994 Buick Skylark with a 4cyl and auto trans, dependability 3 fold. Save your pennies and buy a Camaro or Firebird when you can afford a little down time. A little common sense goes a long way.

Not trashing anyone just getting tired of finger pointing and not trying harder to get to the root of the problem. Good luck to all...

LS1 9C1

iTrader: (2)

When I did my LS1 6-speed conversion (about 3 years ago) I purchased a new Spec Stage 3 Clutch kit and a new stock GM LS1 flywheel. I just got done last weekend replacing my clutch kit and flywheel due to some noticeable slipping on the street (trip home from the track).

Since I liked the way the Spec Stage 3 felt and held up in my car...I opted to go with another one (Spec Stage 3). I spoke with several people about clutch choice, and also spoke directly with 2 folks at Spec before I made my decision to stay with the Spec Stage 3. The bottom line here (for me) was dollars.

I purchased a (lightly) used Spec Stage 3 clutch kit and stock flywheel from a member on this forum. I bought it used since the pictures showed ne damage to any of the surfaces (just some light heat marks). When I got the parts in the mail, I used a scotchbrite wheel on an air tool to just take off the heat marks from the pressure plate face and the flywheel contact area (just as I had planned to do).

Car is back together and I am very happy with staying with the Spec Stage 3. Keep in mind...I have the LS1 and 6-speed (with mild Lloyd Elliot heads and cam) in my 4350 pound '95 Caprice. I had travelled 33k miles and made exactly 280 12 second passes during the 3 years I had the first Spec Stage 3 in my car. Looking forward to similar life expectancy out of this one.

BTW...When I had the tranny out for the clutch/flywheel replacement, I did two things. First, I disassembled the T56 to swap out the mainshaft (I thought it might be bent from the donor car's final ride...but turns out it wasn't) and while in there I hand sanded each engagement surface of the synchros. Anything that felt like there might be a slight sharp edge or a burr, I used a small stone or sandpaper to take that edge off. The theory behind this was to improve ease of shifting, since my tranny has always been sort of notchy. It now shifts much better than before.

Second (and this may be relavent in this thread) is I modified the bleeder screw on the release bearing assembly. I like the idea of GM having a bleeder screw on the LSx trannies, but they stopped short. I hated the fact that the brake fluid always managed to dribble inside the bell housing and finally weep out just behind the engine oil pan. So, after removing the bleeder screw, I welded a long nut (the kind that allows 2 pieces of threaded rod to be joined together) to the end of the bleeder screw. Then I cut off an air tool fitting (I just wanted the male disconnect part) and welded that onto the other end of the extension nut. What I ended up with was a longer bleeder screw, with a nipple on the end. The screw hex is now easily accessible with a box wrench from outside the bell housing...and I can slip a piece of tubing over the end of the nipple if I wish to vacuum bleed the system (from the bottom up). I made the bleeder screw so it now is just as easy to bleed the clutch hydraulics as it would be to bleed brake calipers. Also...after bleeding the system, I can spray out the insides of the bleeder screw with the 'straw' attached to a can of brake cleaner, and install a rubber cap onto the nipple to keep the insides of the bleeder screw from filling up with dirt and/or rusting!

One thing to note here, is I had to install the modified bleeder screw after I installed the modified release bearing assembly (since it now sticks out through the access hole on the bell housing). When I completed the installation, I used my box wrench to crack open the bleeder screw 1/8th turn and I could hear the air escaping. After about 15 seconds a clean stream of fluid was coming from the bleeder screw nipple and I tightened the screw back up and was done.

I also coated the threads of the bleeder screw with teflon joint paste (same stuff used for pipe thread joints) before installation of the screw. This was to ensure I wouldn't have any residual brake fluid escaping at the screw threads when it was cracked open to bleed...and also to help seal out air if using the reverse vacuum bleeding proceedure.

donalr76

I have about 300 moles on my new SPEC stage 3 and I works great so far and I didn't even get an adjustable master. Chatters a little when leaving a red light but I am sure that can be expected for such an aggressive clutch. I give it two thumbs up so far. I used the shim that goes behind the slave.

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

Never even had any chatter below 300 miles. Love my 3+.

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

I had a Honda Civic that did this. The shop told me it was normal. You have to "adjust it" every once in a while sometimes they said. They said it was the diaphragm spring. if you don't it goes real bad. i forget all the details. It was several years ago. Fixed the problem.

I don't know if that has anything to do with your problem, just that it sounded like my description of my problem.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Sharpe, there is no adjustment possible on the diaphragm (on a Civic or an LS1 for that matter). The pedal height will change as the clutch wears and hydraulics can cause the pedal to do some funny things too (inconsistent release/engagement point and pedal effort). Other than that they are pretty fool proof.

I am still really curious about the look of the fluid in the cars with the higher pedal. Is it black? Is there a possibility that these cars are boiling the fluid which can certainly cause some very unusual pedal responses. It is always best to examine all possibilities before making any assumptions. Have a great weekend!!!

Tdawg

Ya know my bubby and i tryed to bleed my clutch last week and when we opened the resivour to do so the fluid was very black

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

I don't know man. That's just what they told me. Went in and it engaged at the very top with no play, got it back and it was down in the middle. Maybe they were just f'ing with me.

Sprayed1998

iTrader: (10)

The fluid in mine is full and clean...