kwiksilverz

Did you send it back yet? What have they told you so far?
Joe

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

I tried to install mine yesterday... my TOB hit the pp fingers with about 1" gap still between the tranny and the bellhousing.... no idea how to fix this.......calling them tomrorow.

EDIT: reading this post spawned me to go take the measurements from the bellhousing both ways...

from the PP fingers to te BH face= 1.9375"
from tranny face to TOB face= 3.0"

the interference is therefore -1.0625"

this is fucked up

kwiksilverz

Sounds like you are looking at it with the spring pushing the TOB out- this is normal. It is with the TOB collapsed all the way (pushed in) that you have to measure. The TOB is spring loaded (obviously) and is constantly held against the clutch fingers. It is when it it bottomed out and still pushing against the fingers that you have to worry about things .

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

I'll double check tonight, thanks for the heads up

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

with the TOB all the way in, FOT to FOTOB is 2". So the gap is +0.0625"

should I machine it or leave it? lol

Could take 1/8 off the tranny or the slave for a quick fix.

kwiksilverz

If you are tight by .0625 or so, I would contact Spec and have them do something about it. GM Spec for the air gap is .125-.150 from what I have found, so you would need to take approx. .190 off the slave. This isn't as easy as just machining down the back side as that would put you into the fluid passages in it. You would need to take it off the TOB and the part of the slave that the TOB goes over equally (.190 from each). It is possible as I had taken much more than that off mine when experimenting, but you lose the "ears" that lock the TOB to the slave and it makes assembly a bit more tricky since the TOB can fall off if the trans is tilted too far, etc.

I would run it past Spec first and see what they think, maybe between mine and the others that have been popping up, they'll just offer up a fix for it instead of you having to make your car fit the clutch.

If you don't want to go through them, another thing you can do is make a spacer to go between the trans bell housing to space the whole thing out the distance you need.
Joe

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

A quick note is that if you plan on ussing a Mcloed scatter shield,we found that it ussually pushes the tranny back 1/4". Figured I'd throw that out there since probly most of you guy's should be running one anyways.

kwiksilverz

Hmm, really? That's interesting to know. Thanks for the info!!!
Joe

bowtiguy

iTrader: (10)

so I shouldn't have any issues with my spec twin disc LS1 install with the mcleod bellhousing. Is the 1/4 inch difference from the scatter sheild that bolts to the block or 1/4 longer dimensionto the bell housing from your experience?

speedracer5532

iTrader: (8)

By running the motor plate with the mcleod bellhousing you gain a 1/4"

KtownGoat

They are sending me a new kit

kwiksilverz

Good deal. I wish they'd have just sent me a new one, but they said I had it too long- umm, I told them the day I put it in it wasn't right lol. Oh well, at least it's resolved now and seems to work great. Pedal feels much better.
Joe

Drewstein

I have the Spec 3+ Twin and I love it. With our power levels, any clutch that doesn't engage right away will die rather quickly. This is because you don't want it to slip at all. Consider it the down side to 800rwhp.

Orange99Z

iTrader: (25)

It finally messed up Saturday night with 1,100 miles on it. The pedal got super stiff, I couldn't hardly pust it down. When it would go down, the car would still move but the clutch slipped. Took it apart and found the T.B. messed up and the fingers on the pressure plate uneven - like something was stuck between the disks. I unbolted it, didn't see anything and bolted it back up - The fingers were even then. WTF? Anyway, I measured the clearance this time.
bell to clutch : 1 13/16" trans to t.b. : 1 15/16"
Which meant the t.b. was pushing on the cluch 1/8". When you add the 1/8" air gap I need, it means I gotta come up with 1/4". I'm gona try and make a 1/4" spacer to go between the trans and bell. Hopefully that will do it. I'll let you know.

kwiksilverz

1/4" was exactly how much mine was off. Contact Jeremy from Spec and let him know what's up. He was thinking it may be an LS2 only thing since the LS1's don't have this problem (his words). I think you need to let him know that it is going on with your LS1 and have them correct it. What disks are you running? Mine are the carbon metallic disks. I believe the stock thickness is .340 and Jeremy said no more than .020" wear for their service limit- you may want to measure them up to see how much you've lost. The .032" that they added to my lower disk brought the fingers down the full 1/4", so make sure you don't have excess wear.
Joe

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

That's an interesting fact about the bellhousing. Anyone got a newer version of this clutch setup with a mcleod bellhousing?

KtownGoat

Dang Joe, It looks like more and more people are finding the same problem!

kwiksilverz

Yup. I had a feeling there would be. I think many just put it in and never checked or noticed anything wrong. Those will be the ones who start slipping prematurely and blame the clutch for not holding their power . I told Jeremy as more miles get on them and/or more people start measuring, we'd see more popping up. GM doesn't manufacture cars 1/4" different.

I'm going to point this thread out to Jeremy. He was sure they were all good and it was just possibly the LS2's that were different. I'm sure he'd be interested in reading this.

To everyone who has an issue- contact Spec! They can't fix what they don't know is broken!!!

Orange99Z

iTrader: (25)

I'm using the P-Trim carbon metallic. Part # SC09PT. I'll call them.

*Edit* This will be the last Spec clutch I ever buy. I just talked to Justin on the phone and he said I was the only one in the world having this problem. He said these clutches are too new and there's too many out there not having any problems even with big power. He suggested I had a hydraulic problem. I told him that I had seen on here that you (Joe) had talked to Jeremy about the same problem and others mentioned it too. He said he's been on here multiple times and that everyone on this board has a problem. I should have bought a Textralia but I had great luck with my Spec 3 so I went back against my better judgement. Never Again.

kwiksilverz

The "never heard of that before" is the same line of crap they gave me, but I just assumed that maybe they hadn't. Now that I had mine repaired and ktowngoat had his replaced for the same issue- it sounds like a prerecorded message at this point. That's BS. I'd talk to Jeremy directly- he knows exactly what's going on with the clutches and *if* he says otherwise, then he's lying- but I really don't think he would.

That "hydraulic problem" **** is getting old though- they pulled that with me with my stage 3 and tried it in the beginning with this one until I verified by measuring that it was 1/4" too tall. There is no possible way you have a hydraulic problem that would make it too tall. I would certainly talk to Jeremy about this as he knows the problem. Hopefully it is just a matter of Justin not knowing about them, but I admit- the "you have a hydraulic issue- try bleeding it" crap for every problem I have ever seen with a Spec is pretty annoying.

They did take care of me though, so maybe they'll do the same for you (hopefully). The only complaint I have with it is it still has a "wandering" engagement point- sometimes it will start to grab about halfway and feel like a stock clutch in it's engagement, other times it grabs all the way up like an on/off switch- kind of hard to drive it in traffic when it is different all the time lol. I honestly think the floater plate binds a bit at times making engagement vary a bit with heat and such.

I'm not unhappy with it by any means as it certainly holds my power, but for $1500, you'd expect more than that line of BS Justin fed you.
Joe