KtownGoat

In thier defense, They did not tell me they had never heard this before, but i talked to Jeremy, who knew i was in contact with joe about the same problem.

Orange99Z

iTrader: (25)

Mine did that too. Sometimes it would start to grab halfway up then just quit. Most of the time it caught right at the top of the pedal though.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Wasting my money on Spec clutches is the reason I now own a TH400. They can't seem to build a decent clutch. Two big thumbs down!

kwiksilverz

Yup, that's what mine did and still does- starts to grab about halfway, but if you give it gas, it just frees up and doesn't start to grab until up top. Pain in the ***. I think the floater plate hangs up and needs to be a "looser" fit in the pressure plate. Just my .02 based on how it feels.
Joe

KtownGoat

Well isnt that just great...what are you going to do now? and what will i do if mine does that as well?

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

I drove mine a little bit yesterday.. engages at the very top of the pedal. Pedal feels very light too, very very light lol... like my stock c6 kind of light...

worried about the air gap now

KtownGoat

As well you should, you dont want that thing putting pressure on the crank!

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Guys, I think it should be quote clear that we are willing to work with anyone that has issues here. I have done everything I can to insure that Both Joe and Jason were taken care of. If you have a problem them give call...it really is a pretty simple request. As a side note, inconsistent engagement is not the clutch. The only thing that can vary the engagement point is the hydraulics. It is not physically possible for the clutch to change its geometry. It is however very possible for air in the lines to cause the release point to be inconsistent.

kwiksilverz

Jeremy- the problem with the release (with mine at least) is NOT hydraulics. We have been through this before. I know you are not in control of everything that goes on once it leaves your door, but saying "hydraulics" every time there is a problem is an insult to my/our intelligence. If you don't recall- you told me my other issues were hydraulic from the start also, which as we well know- they were not . The clutch will start to grab at a low point, the car will start to move, then you hit the gas lightly and it will instantly free up and not grab until the clutch is almost all the way up. This is not air in the system, I think most (some?) of us are smarter than that .

When I discussed this problem with you before, I had mentioned that I felt it was the floater plate hanging up and dragging on one of the disks and you said that you had never seen that, but it was possible it was a burr on the input shaft holding one of the disks up (which would have the same effect). Well, it was not a burr, the input shaft splines were perfect, besides it now has a brand new input shaft due to a worn gear (not clutch related). It is not the pressure plate, slave, air, etc. doing this as it releases correctly, but something is dragging for a second, leading to the only other moving part that cannot be hung up on trans splines or actuated by the slave- the floater. It is as if it hangs up a bit, and grabs the disk early as the pressure plate starts to engage the disk. Once you hit the throttle and RPM's increase, it is like it "pops" free and disengages instantly- that is not air.

The car is also more difficult to get in gear running than when it's not- no, it's not air either . Once I put it in gear, it is easy from there on, but the initial pushing it in gear is pretty hard like it has to stop the disk from dragging. I really think the floater doesn't "float" very freely- especially as things get hot and expand- it is easier to get in gear cold than hot and the pedal doesn't usually do it's half travel then break free crap until after I've been driving around a while either.

Sorry for this being so long, it is hard to describe this stuff in two words.
Joe

kwiksilverz

Also- do you recommend people ask for you specifically or not? Apparently the other guy pissed someone off already lol.
Joe

bowtiguy

iTrader: (10)

I haven't installed my spec twin stage II in the car yet but I wonder if taking a file ( CAREFULLY) to the floater plate tabs would free up enough space so this does not happen ( if it is in fact the problem). This would also clearance enough material between the floater plate and the billet housing to account for expansion due to heat which may solve the once things have warmed up issue described. Just my .02

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Joe, I wasn't insinuating that every issue was hydraulic...I was simply pointing out the fact that all to often...hydraulics are in fact the issue. I helped you in every way possible, as I did with Jason. I have not read every post in this thread, as I haven't had time, but I am unaware of you having any further issues...right? You asked about people contacting me specifcally...that is fine. For the person that had an issue with another person here, please PM me and let me know who you spoke with. Thanks!

kwiksilverz

Gotcha, and as I have said several times on the phone with you- I can only imagine the crap you put up with when it is in fact an install/hydraulic/user error. It just came across as you saying that you read the issues we had and said it is hydraulic, I wasn't aware you did not read them.

I am not having "problems" with the clutch as in it is perfectly livable- but, the engagement does vary at times- and it is not as the pedal pumps up or anything else related to hydraulics or air, it really does it more as things heat up and I personally am 99.7% confident it is in the floater. I think it needs to be a bit looser. Now, that is where the catch is for you- if you loosen it up to address this issue, for every 5 people that notice the improvement and appreciate it, you'll have 5 more that complain it is noisier with the clutch in . I do feel that it needs a couple thousandths more clearance between the floater tabs and pressure plate assembly so it moves a bit more freely. Even assembly/disassembly was a bit tough due to the plate fitting so tight in there, I wondered from the start if it was maybe too tight, but it wasn't a big deal compared to my other issues at the time.

It isn't a major issue for me- Just adding my .02. I'm in no rush to mess with it, the car is running great and the clutch is holding fine so far. If I do anything with it, it will be during the winter when it's laid up and even then, I don't think I'll bother.
Joe

speedracer5532

iTrader: (8)

I think the biggest problem with the Spec twin disk is the over all height of the clutch. I have a spec twin disk that I am running with no issues but if I wasn't running the Mcleod bellhousing with the motor plate then I would have issues with the over all height of the clutch. For me if I didn't run the motor plate then my throw out bearing would of bottomed out and the pressure plate would be slightly depressed all the time.

kwiksilverz

And you're an LS1, correct? Jeremy had mentioned that he felt this problem was limited to LS2 applications only.
Joe

speedracer5532

iTrader: (8)

I have an LS2 block but I did check my McLeod bellhousing against my stock LS1 bellhousing and they are the same height without the motor plate. The motor plate is 1/4" thick.

KtownGoat

And that 1/4" is about how much ours was off....hmmm!

kwiksilverz

Nah, it's just coincidence- has to be your hydraulics, try bleeding it again

KtownGoat

Damn thats rough...! BTW mine just showed up today, but did not have a throwout bearing, which one did you use, the stock one or the one supplied? (I still hav ethe one from the prev. twin)

kwiksilverz

Hahah..

First time I installed it, I used the TOB supplied with the clutch, but I machined that down when trying to make the clutch fit, so now I have a new GM one in there. They both measured the same.
Joe