So reading all this, I have done the new MC/Drill mod, and mity vac bled the system. No bubbles at all. Still cant get more than 3 gears out of it. Zero fluid loss has ever been noticed. Not quite sure how something mechanical like the PP can cause a hydraulic pressure symptom, but it seems my next payment will be to drop the trans and do a new slave. No idea how many miles or what kind of clutch is in this thing, so may be spending another ~$800+ on this thing.

 

I know it seems counterintuitive, but when you let the pedal up, the only thing that pushes back against the slave and by extension all that fluid, which then raises the pedal is -- the pressure plate fingers. Now. If you get full pedal height return between shifts, your PP is likely ok. If you get where the pedal only comes halfway up or worse, and you've validated your hydraulics, then it's typically that stupid adjuster mechanism on the stock PP that effectively reduces finger travel and return pressure. A simple monster stage 1 or equivalent will likely address the issue for you.

 

The drill mod is pointless. It's like getting a bigger straw so you can drink faster, it's just going to take more force to move the fluid and most likely causes excessive wear to the master

To summarize

I use the mmightyvac and put suction on the bottom of the cup after you've manually bled the line. After you have suction on the bottom of the master go in the car and slowly push down the clutch pedal. You should see bubbles now coming into the suction line of the mighty vac. Repeat until no bubbles emerge

If you just manually bleed the line you still leave a small air bubble at the top of the line where it meets the master. You use the mightyvac to pull the air pocket through the master and into the reservoir.

 

I changed my slave, master, did drill mod and put performance clutch in but when im bleeding it i put pedal to floor open bleeder pedal stays at the floor. Ive read ghrough comments dont know what to do next

 

tried mityvac only getting tiny bubbles

 

Pedal stays at the floor is normal when there is air in the line, or the old fluid has been pushed out of the line

Crack the bleeder, slowly push the pedal down and close the bleeder as the pedal gets to the floor. After the bleeder is closed lift up the pedal and repeat the process. You can pump the pedal after you bring it up from the floor with the bleeder closed to see if pedal feel is improving.

Mighty vac same thing. With the bleeder fully closed and tightened on the trans, Put the suction on the bottom of the full resevoir and suck up 6 inches or so of fluid into the line for the mighty vac. Push down the clutch pedal, lift it back up, several times (your should press down the pedal very slowly each time). You should notice fewer and fewer bubbles each time. And as you pump you should gradually notice a firmer pedal
It can take quite a few minutes, and I believe I even left vacuum on the resevoir overnight (because I ran out of time trying to bleed)

It's a pain in the ***, crack the bleeder to get the major bubbles out using the pedal and bleeder method. Next use the mighty vac and suck the bubbles out from the bottom of the resevoir hose.

FYI I believe I have hear there is a knock off tick speed bleeder being sold on ebay.

Again I do not endorse or promote the drill mod, I have never done it and never had any problems on a stock master cylinder

Also to note, I noticed a drastic improvement in pedal feel (when driving and engine warmed up) by wrapping the stainless line for the master to the slave in protective heat wrap coating. My clutch line was nearly touching the drivers rear header. It wouldn't shock me to hear pedal problems being caused by that line cooking the fluid

 

Just had alot of work done to my 02m6, original issue was slave cylinder leaked fluid. My pedal is nice & firm, more than it was OEM.

 

Thanks for the detailed information on the clutch pedal issue, I completed step 1 and what a difference, I have a new respect for clean fluids. I bleed the clutch until we had clear fluid and wow what a difference. The clutch is like new. Thank you.

 

Having dine the t56 swap years ago I can tell you that you should be bleeding the fluid yearly. Make sure you wrap the metal clutch line in heat wrap it goes right next to the drivers side header and can boil the fluid and cause low pedal engagement and other issues.

My pedal was starting to catch too close to the floor for my comfort after 3 years. Starting brain storming needing another shim, the firewall flexing, etc. I spent about 5 minutes slowly pushing down the clutch a few times with the mighty vac pulling suction on the bottom of the clutch resevoir and my pedal is back to feeling like new again

The heat really takes a toll on the fluid in the line.

 

Hey everyone, about 15k miles ago, I replaced the master, slave, clutch and flywheel with an ls7 setup with remote bleeder line.

Its been running great, changed the fluid twice to keep it running great. Been very happy with it

Until today, I changed the fluid for a third time and something broke...

I cracked the bleed, filled up the reservoir which was practically dry and very brown, and began pumping with the pedal. I think a little bit of fluid came out(I'm not 100% sure because I just did the brakes with the same tubing), then nothing was happening. No fluid is pumping, pedal is limp. I completely took the bleeder valve off and still nothing is pumping out. I checked the linkage on the pedal and it is making the plunger move in and out of the master cylinder.

Any ideas in how to fix this? I think I will order a new master soon, but letting it sit over night first.

 

Might not be much help, but is it pushing fluid through a leak in the line somewhere? I had both the master and slave cylinders go out, on separate occasions, and then the whole system did absolutely nothing as it was just leaking a small amount of fluid around the cylinder.

 

I don't see any fluid leaking anywhere and the fluid level in the reservoir isn't dropping at all.

Did I suck some air into the master?

The reservoir was basically bone dry, I added some fluid, then began the procedure

 

Maybe someone more knowledge can chime in, I think ordering a new master like you did is a good place to start.

 

I'm going to try a mitty vac and mess around with the line to see if its a wierd air bubble thing tomorrow. It's just bizarre because it was working flawlessly yesterday before attempting to change the clutch fluid.