CTS-V have this problem too. That vented bell sounds like a great idea. While doing that add an ACT twin disk. Ill never run a single disk again.

 

That link you provided explains why I don't seem to have this issue on my 97 with the 02 hydraulics. Its been though alot and hasent skipped a beat!

 

It the hydraulic restrictor (object of the drill mod) in a different place on the Corvettes? I didn this mod years ago on my Camaro, now trying to do it on a Corvette.

 

I have done all this and still have air in line, the clutch worked before, all i did was replace master cylinder and did the drill mod. i have bleed at transmission and with Mity Vac, for hours probably a 100 times and still cant get hardly any clutch! Please help, maybe I have a faulty clutch master cylinder?

 

So just to add to the tutorial on replacing the clutch master cylinder, I found that the instructional link from Installuniversity does not provide accurate/thorough information on the proper bench-bleeding and slave cylinder bleeding procedure. From personal experience with installation of both a Perfection Design replacement master and the McLeod part# 139301 (which is much easer to mount than stock replacements or the Mcleod listed in the tutorial link as it has its own studs in place of the OEM U-bolt, and it comes with the new larger bore braided line, eliminating the need to perform “the drill mod”) I learned that the http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm link basically serves as a solid basis for the install with the exception of the bleeding process. Install University, in step 22, recommended having a friend hold the quick connect valve open while you pump the master after attaching the braded line. However, doing it this way was messy, consumed a lot of DOT3, and wasn’t effective in purging out all of the air. I highly recommend watching this video link from Perfection Design: The same basic process can be applied to any of the aftermarket masters. This link is also helpful: The videos depict the bench bleeding process for the Ford Ranger/ Mazda B-Series pickups. They have more convoluted hydraulic lines but share the same basic layout with T56 setup on LS1 Trans Ams and Camaros: external master with internal slave. For my application (2001 Trans AM WS6) I used the following procedure:

1. Assemble the master cylinder-braided line- reservoir/line outside of the vehicle per Installuniversity’s tutorial (with the Mcleod kit I used, it is important to be careful when attaching the new hose to the reservoir it’s a tight fit and its easy to crack the bottom of the reservoir near the hose nipple. I recommend inverting the reservoir over a wide screwdriver handle or similar sized object clamped into a vice to take the pressure off the bottom of the reservoir while pushing on the thicker hose before tightening the clamp. Using a few drops of DOT 3 to help it slide on isn’t a bad idea either. Also note for the McLeod, the angle of the outlet nipple to the reservoir hose is adjustable via a hose clamp. This should be pointed almost completely forward (away from the firewall and slightly to the passenger side) to allow clearance for the line under the brake master cylinder.)
2. Rig up the assembly to a shelf/ workbench/some pegboard etc with the reservoir at the top and quick-connect fitting at the bottom. (It saves time to try to angle the cylinder to ease filling and allow air to escape when initially adding to the reservoir.)
3. With the reservoir full of brake fluid, work either alone or with a buddy to purge all of the air out of the master and lines before installing the assembly into the vehicle by both tapping the assembly with the handle of a screwdriver and by pumping the actuating rod repeatedly. The reservoir should be full at all times during this process, and if done correctly bubbles will gradually rise through the fluid. Note that the quick-connect valve should not be forced open. This process is actually more of a “bench burping” procedure than a “bench bleed”. All of the air should rise out of the top of reservoir while quick connect fitting valve remains closed. (Here are some tips: 1. It may take a while to completely bleed the system, but it is a necessity to get it right before installing the master. 2. It took me about 35-40 minutes to get all of the air out, but it is much easier to do this with the hydraulics out of the vehicle than it would be to attempt this after the install. 3. It helps to have a friend. The pumping will need to be continued intermittently with the cylinder tilted at different angles. It helps to have somebody else do the tapping while you pump. Also it helps to have a second person massaging the braided line while you pump. 4. Try different techniques. I was able to loosen many bubbles by tapping the entire unit on the workbench with the reservoir suspended in a vice 5. It may stop bubbling intermittently. Air likes to get trapped in the cylinder, in the braided line and in the fitting that connects the line to the cylinder. Just keep at it.)
4. Determine complete bleeding by the stiffness and reduction in travel of the piston. Per the Perfection video, you want a stiff cylinder with only ~1/8” of travel and no more bubbles. You will feel a noticeable difference when the system is properly bled.
5. At this point, follow the rest of the installation instructions from the Install University link, but do not bleed the system per their direction in step 26. (It may be necessary to run the reservoir line in a slightly different route around the brake master cylinder to avoid disconnecting the reservoir from the rest of the assembly and risk introducing air into the system. I also recommend wrapping the braided line in a heat-reflecting wrap prior to the install. I was able to buy a DEI fiberglass and aluminum wrap from Advance Auto for about $15)
6. It may be necessary to crack the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder before connecting the braided line to the slave (I was able to do this without opening the bleeder, but note that there will be more pressure behind the check valve because the system has been bench bled. It will require more force to click-in the quick connect.)
7. Bleeding the slave cylinder: Using the Installuniversity instructions, by now you should have located the bleeder screw (hexagonal rod you can feel in the opening at the top of the bell-housing just above where the quick-connect plugs into the slave.) The best tool for accessing this tight area is a ¼” drive breaker bar with a thin-walled 7/16th” socket attached. (I found that it is easiest to slip the socket onto the bleeder and then connect the breaker bar with no extensions or universals.) At this point you should be under the vehicle with the socket onto the bleeder while a buddy is over the engine bay with a bottle of DOT3. It is important that this is a gravity bleed only process. There should be no pumping of the clutch during the bleeding procedure. (The master is already bled and the slave will fill with fluid by gravity. Pumping or depressing the clutch at this point will only risk introducing air into the bench-bled master without removing any additional air from the slave.) All you need to do is open the bleeder screw at least one full turn while your buddy continues to refill the reservoir. You may not see any fluid leaving from the top of the bell-housing. It will run down the outside of the slave and trickle out the square hole in the bottom of the bell housing as you continue to add. Run through at least 2-3 reservoirs to be sure the master is full (making sure to never let the reservoir run dry.) Then close off the bleeder snugly. (Tips: 1. Do not pump or depress the clutch pedal at all until the bleeding process is complete and the bleeder screw is closed snugly. 2. Think of the slave cylinder as a gas tank. You are filling it from the side and the air will rise on its own and bleed out of the top as the slave fills without any actuation of the master. 3. Watch the video link listed at the top of this post: )
8. Install the factory heat shield and make sure the braided line is ran correctly. Then lower the vehicle, top-off the reservoir, and try pumping the clutch. It should be stiff and come up on its own. Adjust the arm length using two 9/16” open-end wrenches or an open end wrench + a tubing wrench to a comfortable engagement point (hint: the shortest setting on the McLeod will not provide proper release and engagement. Mine is set nearer to the center of the adjustment distance.)
9. Enjoy a clutch that no longer sticks to the floor when you need it.

 

While most of you guys are having this sticking pedal problem at high RPMs I am having the problem when the car is stopped I want to shift to 1st gear the pedal gets stuck when pressed all the way down and can't engage the 1st gear.

I replaced the fluid and master cylinder and bled the system but still no difference.

I know next is to replace the slave cylinder and I am reluctant to take out the tranny as the car only has 22K miles on the clock and I am thinking with that milage should the tranny have a problem?

Is it something else that is causing the issue?

 

I have same problem ( as jm01z28 ) with my car. If I am at the stopped at the lights and have my foot on the clutch while in gear it will start to bind, the clutch pedal will feel soft and it will sit on the floor. I can not knock the car into neutral. So I have to turn the engine off and hook the pedal up. It happens more often when the engine is hot. The car it not losing fluid. I have replaced it several times with high temperature ap fluid. I can only put it down fluid leaking past the first set of seals in the the master and/or slave. Any other possibilities?

If I have to remove the gearbox again I will replace the slave and drill a large hole in top of the bellhousing for the heat to escape. Hopefully this will cure the problem. If I get really fed up and I can get hold of a cheap bellhousing I might design and convert it and external slave with a fork.

 

I don't think it's a trans problem, if you rev the car up while in gear with pedal depressed does the car creep forward on a level surface?

Sounds to me like its the master, you're not loosing any fluid correct?

 

heres my experience. I dealt with this stick clutch pedal for 4 years with an ls7 clutch. I first did the drill mod and it made no difference. I replace the fluid with dot 4 and it made no difference. I then changed the slave cylinder, no difference, then i did replace the master with a tick unit and it made no difference. I finally changed out my clutch with a tdp stage 2 and it fixed the problem.

 

If it does, what is that a sign of? Bad MC or SC? My previous t56 setup was doing that with LS6 hydraulics and a Textralia... right at the end before I pulled it and sold it. It wouldn't sit still at the starting line and was causing alot of missed shifts.

 

Same exact scenario for my brother and I with our two Trans Ams. It's those darn self adjusting pressure plates in the LS1/LS6/LS7 clutches. The mechanisms in the pressure plate that "self adjust" can fail under high rpms causing the clutch pedal to drop. Once we went with monster clutches it was cured instantly. My brother even uses the stock master cylinder with no troubles.

I feel terrible for people who do the drill mod, replace the master, replace the slave, change out the hydraulic fluid for expensive stuff, wrap the clutch line in heat resistant material, bleed and bleed the system everyway imagineable. And then in the end finally find out it's the stock GM self adjusting pressure plate. It's a terrible situation. Lots of time, money, and stress.

 

A clutch that isn't fully disengaging, now there are multiple things that can cause that. I'd look to the hydraulics first before blaming the clutch though it could be the culprit, hope that helps.

 

Yes the car will creep forward and I have to hit the brake to stop it.
Today I replaced the slave cylinder as well brand new original ac delco stil the same, even worse, now no pressure at all.

To sum it up, I replaced master and slave cylinders with new original ac delco ones, replaced the fluid, bled the system but problem still not fixed.

What should I do?

 

My signs started as you. Did the bleed, with new fluid, no change. Installed new OEM Master, no change. Did alot of bleeding then decided to do the slave and Tick speed bleeder and a new clutch, was worn bad, still no change and no sign of fluid leaking,.....yet. Keep in mind my car was still on blocks, and the new OEM Master( 4 days old) now shows the leak! Inside the car on my floor mat. I bought a new Tick Adjusting Master and my problems went away.

 

If you don't have any resistance on the pedal you have either an air pocket or a massive leak. Did you install a remote bleeder at the same time as the new slave to help with bleeding?

 

Do you mean to say the new OEM master was not good and when you installed Tick Adjusting Master the problem was solved?

Then my new AC Delco master and slave cylinders could be faulty??!

 

Yes, that's correct. I have a thread on here where I went thru this. I bought it from Carquest. After 3-4 days of every evening after work doing nothing but bleeding my system, from where it connects to the slave, and thru the Tick speed bleeder. Even doing it with someone helping to make sure the check valve was working in the speed bleeder, I found the fluid on my car mat and coming out of the top of the brand new Master. I could only guess that either the rough install of the new Master caused it to leak or the constant peddle pushing did it. Either way, I ordered the Tick MC and only taking 15 min to install (lucky as hell) and re bleeding, I now had a peddle and could now drive the car. I know I needed a clutch. I'm glad for the tick speed bleeder. I'm glad the Tick MC solved my problems. Alot of money, but I tried all the easy and first steps.
You need to make sure you don't have any wetness coming from the tranny that would show the slave leaking. Along with inside your car where the clutch attaches at the pedal.

 

so a Tick speed bleeder (no clue what it is lol) and a Tick Master Cylinder would solve my problems?

I will check if there are any leaks.
Thanks

 

I'm no expert, but if you search on here all the threads on your problem which has been alot of others same problem,as well as mine, it will help you.
The Tick speed bleeder is used if you have to pull your tranny to get to the clutch. It allows you to bleed your clutch by yourself. Well worth the $50. Goggle it or look on the sponsors on here web site.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
Not everyone has the leaks, but if you look where the MC hooks at your pedal and under your tranny you will see an opening. Look where you park your car.
Sorry, JonB for jacking your thread.

 

Your not really jacking the thread from Jonb.... He posted this in 2007