I did rebuild my engine and t56.
Got a monster clutch, slave cylinder and flywheel.

Now all works fine

I think it was the clutch that was a little to weak and generated alot of heat and the input shaft (and bearing in crank) was bad.

 

My pedal stick after having the clutch pushed in! It did it for the first time about 3 days ago while I was standing at a light and had the car in 1st with my foot on the pedal! I noticed as I started to let the pedal out that it lost pressure! I had to use my foot to pull the pedal up and pump it 2-3 times! From then on it feels like it's still not right! The clutch fluid is dirty so I'll start off by bleeding it tomorrow. I also have an oz700 Im putting in this next week or so with a new slave! Hope that my problem will go away. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

 

Try and install a remote bleeder line while doing the clutch install also. Get one that'll reach into the engine bay, not just a shortie that'll still require you to get under the car and need a couple of buddies to help. It'll make life a lot easier down the road so you can keep that fluid clean. May as well do it while the trans is out. Good luck.

Tom.

 

bled the shiat out of my clutch after cutting a hole in the trans tunnel today. No love whatsoever from the process. Took the car for two drives and pedal still sticks to the floor when the car is warming up. After running for a while the clutch pedal returns as long as I do not keep the clutch pedal depressed for any length of time while braking or just coasting. Dosn't seem to want to stick in neutral but loves to stick when going into gear. My pedal, whether sticking or not, wants to catch about two inches out from full release at all times. I greased up the piston on the master cylinder and still no luck.... New master cylinder time?

 

Hi all, first let me start by saying great info and I have read this entire thread and the FAQ

My car: 1999 WS6 convertible GMMG phase IIx 475h 424 at rear.

Problem: First I had some creep in first gear while stationary. NO STICKY CLUTCH PEDAL. Brought it to my mechanic and the clutch fluid was black. They changed it out.

Now: my friction point (travel) is almost immediate!! and the pedal intermittently stays on the floor. Usually at a stop light after being depressed a while. I also could really feel the spring when it realeased. Brought it back, to my shop, they drove it, and said it needed a new clutch. They want to do a centerforce dual puck, I want to go stock (I am a purist). They quoted me 7 hours of labor to do it all and a cost of around $1400. I thought this was high!!

As I left, the car would not shift out of reverse and I had to shut it off to pop it out of gear.

Question: What does this particular case sound like? Should they try the master or the slave first, or does the clutch indeed sound toasted?
Which clutch should I use? How much should it cost?

Thanks to all in advance!!!

John

 

My take.
Hope it helps.

 

Can someone post pics of their hole drilled in the car for doing the "one-man bleeding" way? I have been searching the past hour to find the bleeder on tranny/bell housing and cannot find it. I want to drill a hole so that I can bleed it a lot easier. I have no idea what it looks like or where it should be.

 

Get a remote bleeder line, the long version, that'll reach up into the engine bay from one of the site sponsors. The hole mod is old.

Tom.

 

Hey guys my problem is slightly different maybe you guys have the answer to. My clutch pedal dont stick to the floor nor feels spongy (i have a fidanza 4.3 (6 puck) and a fidanza light weight flywheel) what happens is i have to practically stand on the clutch to get the car in any gear and it engages practically at the floor. so basically im standing on it all the way at the floor to get it in gear and my foot is not more than a inch off the floor before the clutch is engaged. any help would be highly appreciated.

thanks.

 

great place to get good pics and explaination for the drill mod is http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_05...tall_pics.html

vetteweb

 

my ws6 started doing this about a month ago or so i noticed the clutch started to feel a bit soft but it wasnt anything major since it didnt catch my attention that much .. but 2 days ago after leaving from a stop light it got stuck halfway . had to raise it up with my foot and for the rest of the way to where i work felt fine... so i read the posts and i bleed the system the old fluid looked black... put fresh fluid and bleed the system felt a little better but the weird thing is that it only gets stuck if i hold the clutch pedal about halfway when i do it starts to feel soft and wont came back up.. but if i dont hold the clutch at that halfway perfect spot it will feel normal and not get stuck ..o yea and it drives perfect at WOT cruising ..only when the cluth pedal is held halfway it starts to get soft and sticks

 

The last couple times I've had my Firebird out, the clutch pedal has been slow to return. Not on every shift, but enough times for me to notice and recognize there is an issue brewing. No sticking to the floor (yet), but lazy after coming back to the half way point of where it normally rests.

I would say almost two years ago, I soaked up the fluid from the reservoir and replaced it with fresh. At the time, there were no issues (I don't recall it being all that dirty either), so I was simply doing this as a precautionary measure. I hadn't seen Ranger's Video or this thread and didn't pump the clutch pedal to see if what was still in the line would contaminate the new fluid.

After reading the thread, my plan, as of now, is to start at the beginning and work my way forward to what could lead to replacement of the entire clutch and its hydraulics system.

I'll clean the reservoir once again,replace the fluid and then pump the pedal and repeat this process as many times as necessary to be sure I have fluid that is as clean and clear as possible.

I also purchased a new GM Master Cylinder a while back, with the intention of performing the "Drill Mod" on it and then replacing the one that's in my car now with it. But, with all rave reviews I've read about the TICK Adjustable Master Cylinder (I'm very surprised its not mentioned in this thread at all), I'm no longer sure I want to bother with the "Drill Mod". It would be a less expensive way to go, but I don't think it would eliminate the underlying issue for good. Only prolong its symptoms return. Has anyone who's performed the "Drill Mod" had every clutch pedal issue alleviated by it? Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm hoping to nip this in the bud before it becomes a major issue.

I'll be sure to post up on my progress.

Great Write-up. Thanks very much to every one who's contributed to it.

 

I replaced the fluid in my reservoir today.

It looked pretty clean. There were a couple dark specs in the bottom of the reservoir, but the fluid itself was clear.

I repeated the Replace Fluid/Pump the Pedal Method three times and now have perfectly clear liquid in the reservoir.

The first test drive after changing the fluid was successful, I guess. My first shift from 1st to 2nd resulted in the pedal hanging up at the half way point again, but this would be the only time this happened. Every shift following, the pedal was fine and returned without fail. I went for a like a 10 mile round trip of mostly highway and then returned home and cruised around town so I could exercise the clutch more frequently.

As of now, everything seems to be fine.

I'm definitely gonna become a regular to this thread. I don't anticipate this being the last issue I'm ever gonna have with the clutch hydraulics.

Thanks again to everyone who has added to this thread to make it what it is.

 

I have replaced the fluid 3 times now, and I am finally just going to order a Tick performance slave and master and be done with it. My pedal is still sticking. Hopefully that solves the problem. Ill have it in by next week and update.

 

My pedal has yet to stay on the floor, but last Saturday it would only travel about 2-3 inches from the floor. I was still able to drive it for a short time and it eventually came out of it, but I'm not happy. Obviously there is a deeper issue brewing here.

I'm beginning to think I need to upgrade to the Tick MC, as well as replace my Slave.

Of course, replacing the Slave requires I pull the transmission. And being a "Do it once THE RIGHT WAY" kinda guy, this means I might as well upgrade my clutch while I have the tranny outta the way.

At the moment, I'm thinking a TICK Complete Clutch Package with a Level 3 Monster would solve my problems and more than satisfy my future needs, but I'm very open for suggestions.

Here we go. LOL

 

I'm having to have my Slave replaced next week. Anyone have any suggestions for an upgraded Slave cylinder other than the stock GM replacement or the Delco? I've heard of one made by RAM but can't find any feed back or reviews. I'm not worried about the cost, I just want it to work.

Current setup is Fidanza Twin Disc Clutch Kit with Flywheel with wilwood master and wilwood remote bleeder.

Thanks

 

Update, I finally got around to getting the new Tick Performance Master cylinder put in. The car is still doing the same thing; the pedal is sticking to the floor after going WOT up to 6700 RPMs in every gear that I have tried it in. Also, I can't put the car in gear while the pedal is sticking, when I go to change gears while it's sticking it's like the clutch isnt even engaged even though the pedal is depressed fully. It has improved some since the Master install; I can go to around 6K Rpms without it sticking. Any suggestions as what I should replace next? Could it be the clutch? Or is it more likely the slave/throwout??? Thanks for any input, this is driving me up the wall.

 

Hey everyone just found this thread and have a question

My clutch has stuck to the floor board two times in the last 2 months. Should I look to replace the parts just yet?

 

Ran across this thread after doing a search, I just picked up a 01 SS that developed a sticking clutch pedal randomly. The car sat for a week while I cleaned up the paint, took it out today and the pedal went to the floor. Now for a car with 40k on it I wouldn't expect the clutch fluid to look this way but look at this crap!



So after removing all the dirty fluid out of the reservoir and pumping the pedal several times I got the pedal back but it still sticks with too much clutch action, I have not taken this car above 5k I can bet the previous owner did but thats besides the point. No matter if the car is on or off If I keep the pedal pressed for 15-20 seconds it will stick no matter what! Does that sound like the master or the slave?

 

This has frustrated a lot of us Fbody owners & yes, I experienced it every year until this year when I went to a QT bell & monster level 3 clutch. Now my pedal never drops or gets wierd like it did no matter how hot out or how hard I drive it. The problem most likely is the stock bellhousing, its not vented but the QT is. The pedal drops, gets soft & goes to the floor momentarily until everything cools off again. Start by first removing the plastic shields around the starter & front of the bellhousing & see if that helps. I recommend reading this to give you a better understanding of what a am trying to say. Sticky worthy IMO:https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ur-clutch.html