wht01ws6ta

iTrader: (45)

Did several WOT runs today and the clutch is working perfectly every shift, which is awesome but can anyone explain this? How can it go from sticking all of the time (after flooring it) to flawless performance without anything being done to the vehicle?

-Nate

andrewdruiz

iTrader: (20)

Maybe it burped up a big air bubble

Anyways, I'm having the same issue too... I think I might make a thread since it'll draw more attention, but I'll ask you guys here first...

Today while giving my RX-7 (LS1/T56) WOT to ~6k for the first time- 1,2,3, I found myself with about ~1" of clutch and the rest slack while looking for 4th... It was at the worst time too, since I was merging on the freeway... I had to pull over, shut off the car, and start it in 4th and since I had no clutch, it had to be engaged, so I revved it really high and made it smell nasty... and when trying to see how much clutch I had while driving down the freeway, the thing was ROCK SOLID

I putted it to the exit, got into a parking area and shut it off...

~10 min later, after continuous pumping, the clutch FINALLY popped up... but it still engaged incredibly low... after a few minutes of driving... back to normal...

-I have a Wilwood 7/8 clutch master cyl w/custom line (don't think I'd need the drill mod)
-On my 2nd 01+ slave, probably ~4k on it
-External slave bleeder
-Heat sleeve on clutch
-25k on trans/clutch (LS6 clutch/pp)
-Both the master/slave were bled like my brakes, pump, hold, bleed, repeat.

I actually cracked open the slave line, put in the brake/clutch res and started slowly pumping it, similar to a bench bleed, and my res did lower a bit, and the clutch felt better... tried the same thing, 4th gear pull... no clutch again...

I think I bit myself in the *** for not bench bleeding the master...

I'm going to bleed the master with an assistant tomorrow (old school method), for like 30 minutes... we'll see what happens...

Thanks.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Ok, so I posted earlier that I had the pontiac dealership flush my clutch fluid and it had seemed to work. Its been about a week or so and my clutch is back to stickin half way up at wide open throttle. But if I take it easy it does good. I took it back to the dealership and asked them what was up? He said the next step would be to change the slave cylinder. He said it would cost about $650 for parts and labor! I'm tight on cash right now, I'll post if anything happens.

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

i would do the master first, it is considerably cheaper. im going thru the same problem in my 00 TA right now. my mechanic said it would be 2hrs labor for the master cyl, and the part from advanced is $75

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for the advice. I actually just talked with a well known transmission place and they believe it is the master cylinder as well. Let me know how it goes after you get that done!

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

I have had my master changed in the past, and now the pedal is sticking about half way. Its making the car less and less fun to drive since most of the time i spend popping the pedal up. I got under the car today to find the bleeder screw, but damn theres hardly any space. Looks like im going ot have to drill the hole through the floor to get to the bleeder screw. I am praying that its not the slave, but more and more its looking like the slave.
-Joel

onebadredss

Did this happen to anyone after a header swap... i know my friend had the line over his headers and basically fried his line and fluid... mine had the same problem i think... im getting it repaired in the next couple of months... i will report back if it fixes it!

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

Well i drilled the hole (well a few actually, looks worse than the pic on page one) bled the system till the fluid that was coming out was clean. It seems that the car drives perfectly fine when everything has warmed up, but when i wake up in the morning it seems the car starts to act up again. Another thing i noticed is that it may be the master instead of the slave. I was wearing my Univeristy of Miami crocs (they are bright orange, but its the U so its all good) and i noticed after going out for a drive my left croc was filthy. It looks like from pumping the clutch pedal while driving is causing fluid or grease to fall from the master. And also the clutch pedal seems to be acted odd since i noticed the stuff all over my crocs, im going to check things out again and see what happens.
-Joel

arya

Hi All,

I am new to this forum, but I have tried to do my homework and looked through the posts on the sticky clutch issue. I have a 99 WS6 with the symptom posted by may others: the clutch gets stuck half way up when you release it. But it is very intermitent.
I have a tech that has done some good work for me in the past, and he wanted to chage the fluid as the first step (also suggested on this thread), but he could not find a drain valve! Also I have some engine oil leaking on the garage floor. He sai that he thought that the engine oil has flooded the clutch and that is what causes the stickiness. He suggested to open the whole thing and replace the whole clutch and fix the engine leak at the same time. I am no mechanic so sorry if this all is not making sense...I am just quoting (and maybe even miquoting at that!). If I go with wht he is suggesting it will end up costing me close to a grand, and I really cant afford to spend that much on this.
So my simple question is this: is there any easy way of draining and replacing the clutch fluid without having to open up the whole tranny? The reason i ask is because from some of the postings here it sounds like that is a fairly easy thing to do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

PONTIAC SLP

iTrader: (3)

thanks buddy u solved my problem with this thread

mcalus

iTrader: (14)

Ok so im going to post my problem. I have had this car for about 1 year, 10,000 miles. Well I haven't noticed a problem until after the track, but it wasn't right after the track it was about 3 or 4 months after i went to the track. Well the pedal comes back but lets say I shift hard from 1st to 2nd then its fine but when I push the clutch to go to 3rd it seems like it doesn't have any pressure until its about 3" from the floor. But the pedal does come back up so whats the deal?

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

Well i changed the master cylinder with help from my dad, and everything seems to run fine. Yesterday i took it for a drive around the block, and today i took a nice spirited drive. Car runs better than it did prior to the problem coming up. I was worried it was slave, but turned out the master had given up. It was a mission to swap it out with the space given, but i had more trouble putting the retaining clip back on the clutch pedal/master cylinder rod.
-Joel

SPG

iTrader: (3)

I had a 2002 ls1, (fitted in a project car) no clutch issues at all.

replaced the engine with ls7 block, ls7 clutch. the slave, master, pipelines and everything hangiong off the trans was untouched

I did notice that the clutch fingers seemed further toward the block with the ls7 clutch, so that i thought that the ls7 might need more travel from the slave to work, but it all bolted up just fine, the clutch feels perfect.

a few hundred miles later, i am now starting get heavy on the gas pedal.

I get to 5500 rpms. quick changes, and the clutch gets very heavy, and wont go down enough for me to get 3rd or 4th. leave it a few seconds, and it seems fine.

goes back to perfect again


this is with the same TOB that gave no issues before, a new flywheel, a new ls7 pp and clutch assembly.

I cant do the drill mod, (the hose is already larger). Is it necessary to shim for the ls7 flywheel clutch assembly??

Steve

slowandrichws6

iTrader: (2)

awsome write up and very helpful!

calavera7668

My clutch pedal started off by squeaking, then the pedal would come back up, but not completely. So sometimes if I was at a light with the clutch pedal in and in first gear, the car would start moving. I would have to turn it off to stop the car. If I put it in neutral and moved the clutch in and out a few times, the pedal would work. So when I am stopped and put the clutch in, it will either grab right off the floor or sometimes it will work normally and grab a few inches off the floor. So I never know which on I am going to get. This is all during normal driving. The clutch fluid is topped off. Any help??

JT1999CamaroSS

Just found this thread today and what an eye opener! I've only encountered a few probs with clutch pedal sticking to the floor at the drag strip only, but i think it cost me my 5 gear synchro when it happened. Missed 3rd...sound familiar? I'm priming myself with overtime at work to get the tranny rebuilt with the better forks and the carbon synchros, but want to make sure everything else works great too while I"ve got the tranny out.

One thing I didn't see was what size drill to use to open up the clutch master to slave line.... Anyone care to name a drill size? I'm all for modding this car and tranny for better performance, it's not a daily driver. I bought this 1999 SS with only 2500 miles on it when it was a year old and it's still only got 30,000 on it now. It's stored all winter here in the chicago area of IL and it's my toy. It's ok if it's a bit "off" during normal driving, just want to be sure it's the right size hole to make things super at the track.

I know I have to have the tranny rebuilt, I heard it "eat" the synchro parts on the return lane at Route 66 dragstrip. It finished it's meal and all the pieces are surely at the bottom of the trans pan, thus the difficulty in shifting into 5th at any time whatsoever. I really want to do this one time though. I know I should replace the slave when I drop the tranny, but should I also be looking into an improved clutch? If so, what clutch seems to be having the best reputation out there?

This thread really opened my eyes to what my car is doing, even though it's not as bad as some of you are experiencing. I'm ready for some full scale maintenance now. Not just the usual oil/filter change for the spring, but coolant, brakes and fluid/ grease, tranny rebuild, and clutch/PP. I'm one of those "might as well do it all at once" kind of guys.

I'd really love to get a drill size for the line drill mod, and suggestions for the clutch replacement. Let me know if you've had some good luck with your new clutch.

I haven't had any good luck finding a tranny shop in the chicago area but found one called Tickshift.com in SC that seems to offer what I need. If anyone knows of a Chicago area shop that can match that service I'd be really grateful. That would save me 200 in shipping alone

Not sure how to add this stuff to my profile yet, so I'll list it here:
1999 Camaro SS
5.7 T-56
SLP headers, Y-pipe, low back pres cats, SLP cat back exhaust
Bilstein springs and shocks
SLP short throw shifter
Good Year Eagle F-1 GS-D3 (man I love these new tires, rocks over stock)
SLP light weight chrome wheels
K&N air filter---stock housing
Syntec fully synthetic oil, from factory
Many of these upgrades were factory options and are on the sticker in my file cabinet.
The headers were a 5 day war to install, but well worth the time, trouble, and loss of ground clearance.

Thanks for any help/advice you give me, and once again, this thread was one eye opener for me!
JT

JT1999CamaroSS

Duh! Ok, just clicked on the "mod" link and found out it's an 1/8 inch drill, thanks for your patience with me, I've now added the whole link/process to my favorites. But I'd still like to get any inputs on clutch replacement and Chicago area transmission shops that can handle the upgrades. I can remove and replace the tranny no problem, but I don't have the special tools or skills needed to do a truly quality rebuild.

Thanks again for any help that comes my way.
JT

Yowzerman

I have an '05 403 stroker GTO and have great success with the Monster level 3 clutch. They're a relatively new company out of Texas. Their clutches are getting the highest reviews. It's the best clutch yet for me and that includes the Textralia OZ 700 and an LS7 setup. I recommend going with SS lines and remote bleeder while you're in there.

Sorry, can't help you with a trans shop other than saying I've heard good things about RPM transmissions. Good luck.

Tom.

jojomanx

Has anybody tried removing or cutting the slave cylinder spring?
Sounds like another engineering flaw from the great minds of GM.

jojomanx

Has anybody tried removing or cutting the slave cylinder sping?