So i got beat this pass weekend because of the stickingto the floor pedal . So i did the drill mod and it fixed part of the problem.See i was sticking from 2nd to 3rd and than couldnt go into any other gear.Well did the drill mod and it works fine and than its hard to get 4th a lil and than i cant down shift very well cause the pedal is stuck down on the down shifts

 

I just changed out the master, (after the drill mod ), BUT still no worky and the fluid pisses out the bell housing really bad now.

With all the BF put through that thing the clutch is probably contaminated...

 

I fixed my sticky clutch pedal, it was the slave! Refer to this link on my story and a link to a video of me installing the slave.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...tch-pedal.html

 

If my back wasn't giving me a problem, I could have saved $1400 but it was worth it. The pedal is so smooth and light, it feels like it's almost not there and I have to adjust to shifting this thing all over again.
I was hoping to have the pressure plate turned, but it came in the stock kit from GM. I kept it stock since it's already beefy and the motor probably won't outgrow the clutch in my ownership. If it does, I will have hit the lottery and it won't matter anyway.


Jason

 

i was driving today anf the engine just revved up and didnt move, i can sit in 1st gear with the car running without the clutch pushed in and the car doesn't stall, what could be my problem?

 

That sounds like your clutch is completely toast.

 

I have problems going into 4th..... Who fixed their similar issue and which part is it thats acting up? I am in the process of flushing the system via the reservoir. I dont drive much so its going to take a while. I have a ls6 clutch and ram adjustable. 01+ slave Adj-MC and slave are only 1.5 years old as i changed them when i did my clutch.

Anyone care to share what fixed their 3-4 problem?

 

we just purchased a bone stock 00 6sp t/a with 59k miles and the clutch pressure is intermittent. we havent done any full throttle pulls, the pedal will stick halfway to the floor at random times at a stoplight, or at a low rpm shift

when you bleed with a vacuum gun does the old fluid come out with the air bubbles? the fluid is pretty much black and i really need to get it out of there
http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm

 

Now I have read this awsome thread (and alot of googling) but is still confused.

I have a LS1/T56 from a Camaro SS 1999 in my Volvo 242 and has big clutch problems. I have Procharged the engine also. http://www.hocky.se

I have what you may call a lazy pedal on high revs (5000+). Shifting 1/2 ok, 2/3 some struggling and 3/4 almost impossible. I have notised that the clutch pedal is not coming up fast enough on the higher revs.

If I drive the car at a steady 5000rpm on 2 gear and put the clutch pedal to the floor and let it go instantly. I noticed that the pedal wont come up, maybe 50% up.

When I got the lazy pedal I can pump the pedal a couple of times and the clutch is normal again.

When driving at normal driving revs I have no troubles what so ever and everything works good.

The prior owner of the engine/trans had recently (2000km) replaced the flywheel, disc, pressureplate and slave cylinder. He had no problems with the clutch. The engine was then a stock NA engine.

I have changed the fluid to a DOT 4.
I have tried all types of bleeding variants.
I have done the drill mod.
I really like to have this sorted out

Any suggestions?

 

A possibility may be that your stock clutch just cant handle that power and is slipping, transferring heat to the slave and causing problems.

 

I have thought of that to but I can not feel it slipping not even in high gears.

The car is lighter than the stock Camaro and I got a 3.91 in the rear.
Boost is only 6psi@6000rpm on a safe tune so it should not produce 1000hp

Something going against that theory is the example I wrote, running on 2 gear at constant 5000rpm and pedals the clutch pedal.

Going to the track this thursday and would love the get aggressive!

 

If it's only rpm related like in the 5000rpm example you showed, either your boiling the clutch fluid because the line is close to a header (though I doubt it) or your pressure plate could be going out.

 

I have been to the track this evening and ended up driving on the 4th gear the whole track. This was going better then I thought

After some quick gear changes at higher revs the pedal would not come up more then lets say 40% for the whole time.

It feelt like its rev and maybe heat related to. But you thought that would not be problem with the "new" stock parts (flywheel, clutch and slave).

When in the pit and pumping some on the clutch pedal all fine again.
Driving home all works fine.

Maybe my solution is a new clutch kit including slave/master.

 

The car is newly built and I got some initial problems. One was the clutch, the other was some vibration in the drivetrain.

I have been working on the vibrations (speed related) this evening and made some adjustments to the pinion angle and some more.
In my head something said that the both problems may be connected.

I got almost rid of all vibrations and now the shifting is much better, not 100% but better for shure.

Is there other that noticed vibrations = pedal wont come up all the way = no shifts?

 

On the OPs post there was a pic of where he drilled the 1" hole. Did anyone save that pic or is it posted somewhere else?

 

I have been trying to find that bleed screw for over an hour by hand and can not get my hand to the top of the transmission to feel for the screw. Nay Ideas is there another way?

 

I have to hope you're done by now. But, the writeup provides what sounds like a pretty slick process to follow. It'll probably help to look at a pic of the T.O. bearing to envision what you're trying to hit 'blind' with the socket setup.

 

Ok my turn. 99 z28 120k never done a flush but started with that according to the write up. I could shift fine from 1 to 2 but not 3 at WOT but after my brother doing a flush and bleed it wont shift into 2 at WOT. I have to do the pedal pump three times to get the pedal moving right again. Any immediate reactions? I think we will do the drill mod next but my gut says slave. Atleast the fluid is nice and clear.

Will keep u guys posted!

 

JImmard my problem is after 5000 rpms not wanting to shift into the next gear AND I DO HAVE SLP LONTUBE HEADERS. Should I try to heat wrap the braided line.

Anyone have experience with headers and this?

 

man great right up... mods should sticky this lol :-)