Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Suitable Clutch For Drifting?

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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 03:15 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BLK02TA
Jason has silly threads.
I know how to search, so the only threads I start are the unique ones that no one else has asked. Plus, I don't ask the same **** everyone else does.

Last edited by JasonWW; Oct 23, 2007 at 07:56 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Very interesting. I never heard of someone using the 5 on the street. Let me ask you, did you ever downshift with it? I'm wondering if downshifts with these gripy clutches have to be spot on RPM matched to avoid bucking the car.
i will answer this only if u send me non FCC blocked pics from your sig
i drop gears all the time with it and havent had a problem.give it a rev to get the rpms close and drop it and its fine.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:55 AM
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Here you go.
sig pic unedited
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 08:06 AM
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lol id go with a 3+ as your power level isnt high enough to warrant the 5.slowhawk is a sponsor on here and puts spec 5's in their street cars.they squeak a lil from a stop but otherwise arent bad.only problem is he says they get about 5k miles out of them and time for a swap.my spec 3 went 40000+ miles.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
lol id go with a 3+ as your power level isnt high enough to warrant the 5.slowhawk is a sponsor on here and puts spec 5's in their street cars.they squeak a lil from a stop but otherwise arent bad.only problem is he says they get about 5k miles out of them and time for a swap.my spec 3 went 40000+ miles.
Spec describes their stage 5 as a "slipper" clutch suitable for drag racing and pulling. Maybe that's why they don't last long.The 3+ seems good, but a bit pricey compared to the stage 4. I may just give the 4 a shot and see how I like it. I just need to do some searching to see how long they last.

Does the stage 4 use the same disc as the stage 3, just without the hub springs? If so, then I remember hearing the stage 3 as lasting a pretty good long time.

Last edited by JasonWW; Oct 23, 2007 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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I don't understand why downshifting is a concern. You should be throttle matching anyhow to avoid trashing your driveline.

A spec 3 grips like a **** at this power level. The Z06 clutch worked well for me. I could hit 3rd and still bark the tires.

Sounds like you just need a little fine tuning of your driving skills mang.

And yes, more inertia is better on the street IMO.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:31 AM
  #27  
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It's a concern because I do it. Most folks don't and hence, are not concerned. That's all.
We are talking heel down downshifting going into a corner, right? Most of the time I match it nicely, but sometimes I'll blip the throttle and let the clutch out a tad early or late or maybe not blip the revs up high enough. It's no big deal with my current clutch, but a grippier one might not like that and buck the car some. I was just curious as to how tolerable it is to not being perfectly perfectly RPM matched.

What can be done with my driving skills to make the clutch grab better? I don't see the relation. Do you mean power shift? I don't like doing that. This is a daily driver (short distance) and I don't feel the need to stress stuff too much. Just a regular high RPM shift into 2nd to bark the tires would be nice, but it seems it should also do it in 3rd. There were a couple times when I had 315 Nitto DR and 3.42's that it wouldn't break the tires loose from a stop. The clutch just slipped. Ouch! I hate that smell. Maybe I just got a poor quality example of the C5 Z06 clutch or something. 4 years and I never really liked it.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
It's a concern because I do it. Most folks don't and hence, are not concerned. That's all.
We are talking heel down downshifting going into a corner, right? Most of the time I match it nicely, but sometimes I'll blip the throttle and let the clutch out a tad early or late or maybe not blip the revs up high enough. It's no big deal with my current clutch, but a grippier one might not like that and buck the car some. I was just curious as to how tolerable it is to not being perfectly perfectly RPM matched.

What can be done with my driving skills to make the clutch grab better? I don't see the relation. Do you mean power shift? I don't like doing that. This is a daily driver (short distance) and I don't feel the need to stress stuff too much. Just a regular high RPM shift into 2nd to bark the tires would be nice, but it seems it should also do it in 3rd. There were a couple times when I had 315 Nitto DR and 3.42's that it wouldn't break the tires loose from a stop. The clutch just slipped. Ouch! I hate that smell. Maybe I just got a poor quality example of the C5 Z06 clutch or something. 4 years and I never really liked it.
Heel toe refers to braking with the left side of your right foot, blipping with the right side of your right foot, and downshifting/clutching with your left foot. You do this to avoid upsetting the chassis coming into a corner.

What I was gathering, was you downshifting say from 3/2 to punch it, with no throttle blip. I watch people do it all the time. All it does is shock the driveline, and thats what gives you the bark from the tires...not exactly something thats going to prolong clutch/driveline life.

My spec 3 engages smoothly. I've heard the 5 is not as smooth. I've also heard Mcleods Street Twin disc is smooth as silk, and that clutch grabs like a **** and holds power...

Any clutch designed to hold 600ish HP (I think thats what the spec 3 is rated @ flywheel) is going to grab harder than factory. So your going to notice when your timing is off. It will just teach you to get better, to avoid doing it LOL.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 09:09 PM
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spec stage 5 pedal pressures is much better than the 3 but engagement is easier with the 3
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
ROFLMAO their cheapest clutch is $1100.
lol not for a sr it wasnt..
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