Anyone doing the drill mod?
#1
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Anyone doing the drill mod?
OK so this has been a popular modification.
I just received my parts for a new clutch including a new master.
Upon inspection of the new unit, it appears the same as an old unit which has the restriction in the SS line where it meets the piston.
I'm planning to drill it out with a 1/8 inch drill.
Is everyone still doing this mod?
I just received my parts for a new clutch including a new master.
Upon inspection of the new unit, it appears the same as an old unit which has the restriction in the SS line where it meets the piston.
I'm planning to drill it out with a 1/8 inch drill.
Is everyone still doing this mod?
#5
some ppl can... but ive been having that problem... that if im at high rpms i cant shift fast... (shifting faster than the fluid can go throught the small hole on the hydralic line.)
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x2 for not being able to do high rpm shifts utill the drill mod was done. Night and day difference now it is a breeze. before the mod 1st to 2nd was a bitch maybe one out of 6 times it worked.
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Apparently, GM knew the LSX engines produce lots of power and their 7 inch rears were not going to hold up.
I wonder if the masters on the Vettes have the restriction too?
I wonder if the masters on the Vettes have the restriction too?
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I don't know if the vette has the restriction or not, but I was told by a local tuner not to do the drill mod on my vette.
#17
I dont really understand the instructions for the drill mod form install university. So what do you drill the master or the line? Sorry for the somewhat dumb question but I want to be sure I get the drill mod right.
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Yeh, what he said^
Remove the master.
Take a small punch and push the pin out that holds the stainless line in the plastic master housing. Remove the line.
Now surround the line with a soft material and clamp it in a vice.
Drill the whole in the line out so it is able to flow more fluid - use a 7/64 or 1/8th size drill.
Pull the o-ring that is used at the end of the line and replace it at the tip of the line. Replace the line and drive the retention pin back into the housing to hold the line in the master.
Reinstall the master and bleed accordingly.
Remove the master.
Take a small punch and push the pin out that holds the stainless line in the plastic master housing. Remove the line.
Now surround the line with a soft material and clamp it in a vice.
Drill the whole in the line out so it is able to flow more fluid - use a 7/64 or 1/8th size drill.
Pull the o-ring that is used at the end of the line and replace it at the tip of the line. Replace the line and drive the retention pin back into the housing to hold the line in the master.
Reinstall the master and bleed accordingly.