clutch question. HELP!
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: northeast missouri
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
clutch question. HELP!
I have a 99 trans am m6. Lately when i really get on to the car and go to shift its like my cluch has lost pressure and wont start to dissengage until its almost to the floor which causes it not to want to shift so i have to pump on it to get my clutch back. What causes this and how do i fix it and how expensive is it??
#2
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: northeast missouri
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
come on there has got to be somebody else out there that has had this problem and knows how to fix it. Does anybody have this trouble if there is air in the line and it needs to be bleed?
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: northeast missouri
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just found out some new news on my clutch. It also does this when its real cold I dont even have to have it at high rpms..... You would think with all these ls1 users in here that atleast one person had this problem before or that atleast one person was smart enough to know what it is.
#4
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well you need to be a little more descriptive on whats happening. Does the car shift normal with regualr driving? Is the car only hard to shift at higher rpm's? Is it the stock clutch? Do you have the stock master and slave cylinder installed on the car? Do you have headers on the car?
Possible fixes:
If you have the stock hydrolics the car might not have enough pressure to disengage the clutch. Fix would be converting it to the 2000 and newer hydrolics or doing the drill mod. Any hydrolics you purchase now are the new style with the better flowing line.
If you have headers you might want to check the routing of your clutch line to the slave and make sure the line isnt too close. You could be boiling the fluid.
Also how many miles are on your clutch? If the clutch pad is almost gone this could cause some shifting issues as well.
Possible fixes:
If you have the stock hydrolics the car might not have enough pressure to disengage the clutch. Fix would be converting it to the 2000 and newer hydrolics or doing the drill mod. Any hydrolics you purchase now are the new style with the better flowing line.
If you have headers you might want to check the routing of your clutch line to the slave and make sure the line isnt too close. You could be boiling the fluid.
Also how many miles are on your clutch? If the clutch pad is almost gone this could cause some shifting issues as well.
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: northeast missouri
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont have headers on the car yet. The clutch is the " borg warner brute force" The clutch only has about 20k on it. It does have stock hydrolics. Once the car is warm it shifts GREAT and its very smooth. But like i said when you are really getting onto the car or its really cold it wont dissengage.
#6
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I was having a similar problem with my car, it started out only when i was getting on it when it would act up. Mine i could push the peddle in and get the car out of gear but the peddle would stick to the floor and not go into the next gear. Mine was caused by the fluid in the line being over heated.
Later on the same thing was happening but it would also act up when it was cold. My rear main seal had leaked and caused the clutch pad to become soft and ware very fast. My clutch only had 8k on it.
Not sure if this is the same thing you are experienceing but just trying to give you some ideas.
Is your clutch fluid still clear or does it turn black?
Is your rear main seal leaking or do you have any leaks out of the bell houseing?
My guess right now would be the hydrolics are what is causing you greif.
Later on the same thing was happening but it would also act up when it was cold. My rear main seal had leaked and caused the clutch pad to become soft and ware very fast. My clutch only had 8k on it.
Not sure if this is the same thing you are experienceing but just trying to give you some ideas.
Is your clutch fluid still clear or does it turn black?
Is your rear main seal leaking or do you have any leaks out of the bell houseing?
My guess right now would be the hydrolics are what is causing you greif.