10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system
01-12-2003, 07:11 AM
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10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system I put a Ram system in my car about a year ago. It's not the VDS... it's the standard pressure plate with the billet flywheel and sintered iron disc. I run the Mcleod master cylinder also.
Guys I've abused this thing with large shots of nitrous hot lapping in the summer with not a sign of slippage and I still drove the car over 1000 miles on the street over the holidays.
All I can say is it works!!!
A little trick you might want to try... I cut a 2x2 inch square hole in the very bottom of my bellhousing to let the system get some air. In a stock bellhousing the clutch has no way to get any air and what this effects most is the hydralics causing the fluid in the slave to overheat. Using Wagner hi-temp brake fluid also helps. If it's really hot, like 4th of July hot, you can get a leaf blower, frabricate a piece of radiator hose on the end and stick it in the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing between rounds. I had alot of success doing that this summer. Cools the clutch system so you can touch it in about 15 minutes. It really helps with consistency.
The last trick... reverse fill the system on the bench with fluid before installing it. You've got to get the air out of the system. Pumping and bleeding will not work!!! As soon as I get a digital camara I'll post picks showing how to do it. Sorry but I'm not good enough with words to explain it.
Guys I've abused this thing with large shots of nitrous hot lapping in the summer with not a sign of slippage and I still drove the car over 1000 miles on the street over the holidays.
All I can say is it works!!!
A little trick you might want to try... I cut a 2x2 inch square hole in the very bottom of my bellhousing to let the system get some air. In a stock bellhousing the clutch has no way to get any air and what this effects most is the hydralics causing the fluid in the slave to overheat. Using Wagner hi-temp brake fluid also helps. If it's really hot, like 4th of July hot, you can get a leaf blower, frabricate a piece of radiator hose on the end and stick it in the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing between rounds. I had alot of success doing that this summer. Cools the clutch system so you can touch it in about 15 minutes. It really helps with consistency.
The last trick... reverse fill the system on the bench with fluid before installing it. You've got to get the air out of the system. Pumping and bleeding will not work!!! As soon as I get a digital camara I'll post picks showing how to do it. Sorry but I'm not good enough with words to explain it.
01-12-2003, 01:39 PM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system Question. I have the exact same setup. I also have a fidaza. The clutch is only 300 miles old. Will this thing EVER slip? It grips so hard I get terrible wheel hop off the line on the street.
01-12-2003, 01:53 PM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 02NBMZ:
<strong> Question. I have the exact same setup. I also have a fidaza. The clutch is only 300 miles old. Will this thing EVER slip? It grips so hard I get terrible wheel hop off the line on the street. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Wheel hop is caused by not enough shock... the clutch has nothing to do with it.. And to answer your question I doubt that you will ever hook the car up enough to make the clutch slip on the street. <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />
<strong> Question. I have the exact same setup. I also have a fidaza. The clutch is only 300 miles old. Will this thing EVER slip? It grips so hard I get terrible wheel hop off the line on the street. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Wheel hop is caused by not enough shock... the clutch has nothing to do with it.. And to answer your question I doubt that you will ever hook the car up enough to make the clutch slip on the street. <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />
01-13-2003, 05:35 AM
#5
Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system Joe, are you talking about reverse filling the hydraulic system? Whats the problem with bench bleedin the Master while it's out of the car? I have done this before and didn't have any problems. Just curious if there is a better way of doing it.
I'd also recommend the drill mod for all aftermarket clutch users...
Oh, I also have a RAM 402/6130 setup and this fugger HOLDS...
Josh
I'd also recommend the drill mod for all aftermarket clutch users...
Oh, I also have a RAM 402/6130 setup and this fugger HOLDS...
Josh
01-13-2003, 07:37 AM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Damian:
<strong> Joe, are you talking about reverse filling the hydraulic system? Whats the problem with bench bleedin the Master while it's out of the car? I have done this before and didn't have any problems. Just curious if there is a better way of doing it.
I'd also recommend the drill mod for all aftermarket clutch users...
Oh, I also have a RAM 402/6130 setup and this fugger HOLDS...
Josh </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Josh early on in 98 when I got my first LS1 I went through alot of slave and master assembles working with different combinations.
First I rigged a bottle of brake fluid with a pointed fill cap like comes with Valvoline gear oil. I cut the cap off some so it will seal off when you push it in the end of the m/c line. Then I cut a very small v on the side of the point that is extended into the end of the m/c
line. Push the point into the line and sqeez the bottle.
I set the m/c in the vice where it is level and the fliud inlet pointing up and supporting the resevior above it. I start filling the line with fluid pushing the air out the top as the m/c fills. I keep injecting the fluid until the reservoir is full.
As for the slave rig another bottle cap where it just fits over an old line that is plugged into the slave and use the same procedure. Support the slave where the bleeder is pointing strait up and is open. Squeez the bottle filling the line and slave with fluid until all the air is pushed out of the slave and then close the bleeder and disconect the line from the slave.
When installing the trans be sure to connect the
line coming from the m/c as soon as you get the trans input shaft started in the clutch spline. This will allow the fluid in the slave (remember it's full) to flow into m/c as the trans is tighened up to the bellhousing. If you do this it will make the trans slide in much easier.
I hope this helps you guys and gals... It works for me!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
<strong> Joe, are you talking about reverse filling the hydraulic system? Whats the problem with bench bleedin the Master while it's out of the car? I have done this before and didn't have any problems. Just curious if there is a better way of doing it.
I'd also recommend the drill mod for all aftermarket clutch users...
Oh, I also have a RAM 402/6130 setup and this fugger HOLDS...
Josh </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Josh early on in 98 when I got my first LS1 I went through alot of slave and master assembles working with different combinations.
First I rigged a bottle of brake fluid with a pointed fill cap like comes with Valvoline gear oil. I cut the cap off some so it will seal off when you push it in the end of the m/c line. Then I cut a very small v on the side of the point that is extended into the end of the m/c
line. Push the point into the line and sqeez the bottle.
I set the m/c in the vice where it is level and the fliud inlet pointing up and supporting the resevior above it. I start filling the line with fluid pushing the air out the top as the m/c fills. I keep injecting the fluid until the reservoir is full.
As for the slave rig another bottle cap where it just fits over an old line that is plugged into the slave and use the same procedure. Support the slave where the bleeder is pointing strait up and is open. Squeez the bottle filling the line and slave with fluid until all the air is pushed out of the slave and then close the bleeder and disconect the line from the slave.
When installing the trans be sure to connect the
line coming from the m/c as soon as you get the trans input shaft started in the clutch spline. This will allow the fluid in the slave (remember it's full) to flow into m/c as the trans is tighened up to the bellhousing. If you do this it will make the trans slide in much easier.
I hope this helps you guys and gals... It works for me!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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01-13-2003, 07:46 AM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Stick only:
<strong> Way to go Joe! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks Mike... <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />
<strong> Way to go Joe! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks Mike... <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />
01-13-2003, 06:42 PM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Your the man Joe, I never thought of cutting a hole in the bell housing. Do you worry about rain water getting in there or not? Could you cut the hole on top if you were worried about this?
Thanks
Glenn
Thanks
Glenn
01-13-2003, 08:27 PM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by W8N2SQZ:
<strong> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Your the man Joe, I never thought of cutting a hole in the bell housing. Do you worry about rain water getting in there or not? Could you cut the hole on top if you were worried about this?
Thanks
Glenn </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Glenn I don't drive my car everyday and never in the rain. If I get caught out and it starts raining a little water won't hurt the clutch... it will dry quickly because its turning.
<strong> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Your the man Joe, I never thought of cutting a hole in the bell housing. Do you worry about rain water getting in there or not? Could you cut the hole on top if you were worried about this?
Thanks
Glenn </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Glenn I don't drive my car everyday and never in the rain. If I get caught out and it starts raining a little water won't hurt the clutch... it will dry quickly because its turning.
01-14-2003, 03:08 AM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system Thanks Joe, keep us posted on new times when you up the unit on that thing <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />
Glenn
Glenn
01-14-2003, 03:11 AM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system Joe, one more thing. What gear setup are you running and tire size? You shift at 7200 on the spray or off?
Thanks
Glenn
Thanks
Glenn
01-14-2003, 06:07 AM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by W8N2SQZ:
<strong> Joe, one more thing. What gear setup are you running and tire size? You shift at 7200 on the spray or off?
Thanks
Glenn </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">7200 on and off... I go to the track geared for na or nitrous... 4.88's na or 4.56's nitrous with 28X10.5X15's...........
<strong> Joe, one more thing. What gear setup are you running and tire size? You shift at 7200 on the spray or off?
Thanks
Glenn </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">7200 on and off... I go to the track geared for na or nitrous... 4.88's na or 4.56's nitrous with 28X10.5X15's...........
01-16-2003, 07:30 PM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system good post Joe, gave me an idea on the 2x2 hole ... got mine apart now and may just do that.
what amazes me about these setups is the slave / t.o. bearing ... how can such a flimsy piece of crap exert the pressure needed to disengage the clutch? Conversely, does it release fast enough to engage?
what amazes me about these setups is the slave / t.o. bearing ... how can such a flimsy piece of crap exert the pressure needed to disengage the clutch? Conversely, does it release fast enough to engage?
01-18-2003, 11:36 AM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by bo0oost:
<strong> How much HP you running, and how reliable has the M6 been? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm running about 460-470 rwhp n/a and around 650rwhp on nitrous. I broke one trans and it was due to a bad slave and the clutch didn't release on a hard shift. The problems with the syncros in the early days was caused by the stock hydralics and air being in the system.... aftermarket m/c's and better bleeding procedures cured that problem.
<strong> How much HP you running, and how reliable has the M6 been? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm running about 460-470 rwhp n/a and around 650rwhp on nitrous. I broke one trans and it was due to a bad slave and the clutch didn't release on a hard shift. The problems with the syncros in the early days was caused by the stock hydralics and air being in the system.... aftermarket m/c's and better bleeding procedures cured that problem.
01-21-2003, 02:10 PM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system FWIW, the NV3500 5-speed in my ZR2 pickup had holes in the bellhousing from the factory. There were three oval-shaped cutouts directly below the clutch assembly (you see the clutch plainly). Each cutout was about 1" by 3-4". Drove it through all weather conditions imaginable - never had a problem in 90,000+ miles.
01-22-2003, 10:11 AM
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Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system Just a word to the wise. I have the same setup ALOMOST. Except i opted for the 310 disk (streetable one I was told) Now its been in the car for over a year and holds strong as anything if i go out today and tear into the throttle ripping gears. BUT with the 310 it has slipped on me at the trak after my 8th pass in 2 hrs trying to get my new best before closing time. It was on a 1.64 60' and full weight car. BUT when i got done with the last two passes it smelt awful like it had been slipping but i couldnt feel it. Also the last pass when it smelt the worst (5500 rpm launch)i ran my best pass ever. But if i had it to do all over again and when this one goes for good ill do everything the same with the iron disk. basicaly i'm`saying dont do the 310 disk yet is had been the best setup ive had so far eve with the wrong disk in there. LOL
01-24-2003, 02:32 PM
#20
Re: 10.49 with and 1.47 60ft with RAM clutch system joe, by any chance, do you have the part numbers for all those clutch components you recommended?
best place to purchase?
thanx!
[edit]
i got this from RAM's website, but which ones did you use?
VDS system with 300 series disc 4021550T
VDS system with 6000 series disc 4021550
VDS system with 900 series disc 4021550N
VDS system w/ 300 disc alum. fw 4022550T
VDS system w/ 6000 disc alum. fw 4022550
VDS system w/ 900 disc alum. fw 4022550N
Adjustable hydraulics for LS1 :
Adjustable master cylinder - F-body 510
Adjustable master cylinder - Corvette 515
Slave cylinder/release bearing - F-body 520
Slave cylinder/release bearing - Corvette 525
best place to purchase?
thanx!
[edit]
i got this from RAM's website, but which ones did you use?
VDS system with 300 series disc 4021550T
VDS system with 6000 series disc 4021550
VDS system with 900 series disc 4021550N
VDS system w/ 300 disc alum. fw 4022550T
VDS system w/ 6000 disc alum. fw 4022550
VDS system w/ 900 disc alum. fw 4022550N
Adjustable hydraulics for LS1 :
Adjustable master cylinder - F-body 510
Adjustable master cylinder - Corvette 515
Slave cylinder/release bearing - F-body 520
Slave cylinder/release bearing - Corvette 525