one for the LS7 clutch.
one for the LS7 clutch. Just finished my 650 mile breakin for my t56 rebuilt trans and ls7 clutch. I saw a 454 chevy and had to hunt him down. After 1st gear, I pulled 2nd and the car jumped sideways. It never did this with the ls6 that wouldn't let me go into 3rd. Feels stock, but grabs hard. I like it. Now I just have to get use to it. I was going to get 3.90's before Christmas but I'm not sure I need them now.
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
From: British Columbia, Canada
That sounds good, I did the drill mod, didnt make a difference. So, I figure it must be my stock clutch not holding power as well as older hydraulics. Debating myself between the Tex 0z700 and the ls7....it will be nice to actually be able to drive the car the way it is supposed to be driven.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: Amarillo, Tx
When you did the clutch install did you reuse the stock hydraulics or did you get new slave cylinder??? Was thinking when I do mine to just do the drill mod... Was gonna get the clutch/flywheel, new flywheel bolts, pilot bearing, and alignment tool. Should that be good enough??? Or should I buy the slave too, I know it's only another $130 or so, but with everything else and the ATF it's gonna be around $500 all ready.
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That is precisely what I was hoping to hear! My car is in the shop right now getting a LS7 clutch installed. I opted not to replace the master cylinder (and do the drill mod)....I'd like to see if the clutch fixes my sticking pedal issues first. If it doesn't, at least the problem should then be isolated to the MC.
yea you should deffinetly go ahead and replace the slave with the tranny already dropped for the clutch. I made the mistake of not doing that when i did my first clutch install and roughly 1k after breaking it in the slave went south so i had to drop the trans again..Most quality shops won't even install a new clutch without a new slave just for cheap insurance. The LS7 clutch is a great for the street!!!
RealLiveMD what else did u put in or upgrade? ls7 clutch,...... new master cylinder? what kind?
I ask because my transmission is really hard to get into gears at high rpms.. please spill ur info lol
I ask because my transmission is really hard to get into gears at high rpms.. please spill ur info lol
Im running a new stock master cylinder. I had a Mcleod adjustable master but it went out on me before i put in the LS7. Ive heard the Mcleods can prematurely wear out a clutch. Ron @ Vengeance told me this when my Spec 3 started slipping extremely bad after 8k on it and no track time. In my case the pressure plate took a crap on me but i know i haven't had any issues with shifting or grinding at any rpms since i put in the LS7 clutch and new hydrallics
thats good to know shredder, I was going to get a Mcleod adj master. I'll stick with a new stock one and a ls7 clutch. a 01,02 master is the best right? I hope this helps my shifting, people probably think I can't shift lol
Im running a new stock master cylinder. I had a Mcleod adjustable master but it went out on me before i put in the LS7. Ive heard the Mcleods can prematurely wear out a clutch. Ron @ Vengeance told me this when my Spec 3 started slipping extremely bad after 8k on it and no track time. In my case the pressure plate took a crap on me but i know i haven't had any issues with shifting or grinding at any rpms since i put in the LS7 clutch and new hydrallics
I've heard this same thing, there's a few threads on this discussion about the Mcleod MC. There is however another company I forget the name, but they have the GM Master Cylinder and modified it to make it adjustable, just like the mod you can do yourself.
So does this sounds right? I'm about to get my trans rebuilt and while its down I'm getting the LS7 cluch kit, the LS1 Slave, LS2/LS7 pilot bearing and then I should be good to go or should I go ahead and replace the master while were at it?