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Spec 3 Clutch Slipping Which Clutch Should I Get With 430 Rwhp

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Old 12-18-2007, 05:35 PM
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ok let us all know how well that GM clutch last after a few good hard launches

not to mention you will always here more about the problem clutches as the ones that are fine and the peopel dont post that have had no issues. ive installed a few myslef and been around hundreds of cars with specs and they all hold well and perform well go fiqure
Old 12-19-2007, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Danger731
No doubt, I bought a oem ls6 clutch from a aftermarket company, just crossing my fingers. It will hold on the first and maybe second launch then heats up and smells up my damn interior on the third launch. I am going LS7 next time. btw I got this cheap as well. about 250 bux. You get what you pay for. NO MORE but GM clutches for me.
Let's see. oem ls6 clutch, your power + whatever shot of nitrous you are running = problem. No way!
Old 12-19-2007, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by T-56SLPSS
Im getting the CTR dual friction installed today. I decided to go with it after reading everyones posts on how much trouble they were having with their spec 3's. I have a buddy with 475RWHP that toasted his spec 3 in less than a month. So i chose not to go with the spec but ill see how the CTR holds up. Anyone like the CTR??
It takes a month to BREAK IN a spec clutch, if he toasted it in less than a month, it's no one's fault but his own.

If by CTR you mean centerforce, I haven't heard much good about their dual friction.
Old 12-20-2007, 02:26 PM
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It only took me three days to break in my SPEC. lol I pretty much lived in the car though.
Old 12-20-2007, 02:54 PM
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You did 400 miles of stop & go traffic in 3 days? Highway miles do nothing to break in a clutch. That's where people usually mess up, they think they can take a 500 mile road trip and the clutch is broken in.....wrong. It takes a lot of stop & go, lots of shifting and lots of heat/cool cycles to properly seat a clutch disc before beating the crap out of it. Some get lucky and it holds without a proper break-in, I don't have that kinda luck.
Old 12-20-2007, 05:40 PM
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If the clutch is slipping already I'd say it's another problem. Maybe oil getting on the clutch? Shim not used so the clutch was dragging all the time?Improper break in? Could be many things. We've done a ton of SPEC clutches with great success.

As for pimping the LS7 -they work great for low hp DD cars but won't hold the high hp cars that take a beating.
Old 12-21-2007, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jmm98LS1
You did 400 miles of stop & go traffic in 3 days? Highway miles do nothing to break in a clutch. That's where people usually mess up, they think they can take a 500 mile road trip and the clutch is broken in.....wrong. It takes a lot of stop & go, lots of shifting and lots of heat/cool cycles to properly seat a clutch disc before beating the crap out of it. Some get lucky and it holds without a proper break-in, I don't have that kinda luck.
No, I did 500 miles of stop & go traffic in three days with all the proper heat/cool cycles. That's why after 17,??? miles that **** is still taking a beating.
Old 12-21-2007, 04:28 PM
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^^^You put more miles on in 3 days than I have in the last 13 months.
Old 12-21-2007, 08:20 PM
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lol. I miss those days! My car's been collecting dust since I got ants in the pants and decided to go back to work for these clowns in Iraq.
Old 12-21-2007, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by El_Diablo
Spec 3+, billet steel flywheel. I've got 17,XXX miles on one and it's still holding strong. Drag racing, open road racing, Auto X, daily driven. I've abused it. I would have to recommend a new flywheel over resurfacing your old one. You can barely take any material off and just about everyone I know that's done it always has problems.
Nice, that's what I like to hear.
Old 12-22-2007, 12:11 AM
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A bad break in could have caused that I have heard of that. Improper install also. Or you could have just got a dud.

I think the LS7 will hold if you dont' drag it on MT streets with clutch dumps. The vette has 400 pounds less of a pig so that helps them holding up in the vette.

Looks like a spec 3+ with flywheel is 806. Well a OZ700 what is 970. Everybody says there overpriced, but they dont' seem that much higher. One of them would hold your drag launces and street. I enjoy mine a lot. Another spec may work looks like a hit or miss though.

Good luck
Old 12-22-2007, 08:07 PM
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Just be careful when taking out your pilot bearing. You have to use a bearing puller because i tried to do it with grease and a rod and i shoved the freeze plug sideways and squirted grease into my oil. Ended up costing 57 cents for a new freeze plug plus a headache of trying to get the freeze plug i knocked back out of the end of the crank.
Old 12-22-2007, 08:10 PM
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You cant resurface your flywheel on an ls1.
Old 12-23-2007, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by T-56SLPSS
You cant resurface your flywheel on an ls1.
I did with my Spec then ordered a shim from the machine shop to put between the crank and flywheel. The clutch works great, no problems. I've used it in two cars.
Old 12-23-2007, 01:54 PM
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those specs are hit and miss. either you love em or hate em. a ram powergrip HD with a billetflywheel will hold up great. i was spraying 100 wet shot on it and also, off the bottle, 5500-6k clutch dumps on 275 50 15 M/T radials on that setup. they run about the same as a spec stage or or 3+. i got my powergrip HD from thunderracing on sale a while back for 380.00
Old 12-23-2007, 02:49 PM
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so what kinda clutch should i get that will be for sure to handle my power??
A Spec 3+
A Ram HD Clutch
Or an LS7 clutch cause that clutch assembley is pretty cheap in price and can handle 505 hp ls7
I need help guys i dont wanna do this clutch thing over and over if it keeps going out.
Old 12-23-2007, 06:54 PM
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Spec 3+ and either the billet steel or aluminum flywheel. OR you can take a chance and resurface your stocker.<--That's the LAST time I'm sayin it here. Your car is too heavy for that LS7 clutch to take a lot of beating.
Old 12-24-2007, 12:11 AM
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Go with the Spec 3+. I love my new clutch and get 4th gear scratches everytime with the dual ram. I would deffinatly not go with the spec 3 because of all the bad storys running around about them. With that being said there is no bad storys about the 3+. I have had the ram dual for 3 days and im not really breaking it in like i am supose to but i really like the way it feels. I forgot to do the drill mod on my new master cylinder and im not really sure if its a bad thing. Not trying to hyjack the thread but just wondering how much the drill mod really helps out. Any imput from people that actually do the work on their cars them selves would help me and the poster. Thanks
Old 12-25-2007, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
? Shim not used so the clutch was dragging all the time?.
How would not using a shim cause it to drag? I won't use the shim in any of the specs I have installed. I have had to remove a ton of them cause they start slipping due to not being fully disengaged
Old 12-30-2007, 09:57 AM
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My car has arround 430rwhp, also a daily drive, and have problems with the LS7. When I was runing low 12 worked fine, but when I changed the rear end for a 9" w/4.10 looking 11s, It started to have problems shifting over 6k rpms. A friend of mine borrow me a Spec 2 and the car went 11.50-11.60, but after 7 launches I broke the Spect 2 lol.

So, LS7 couldn't ran 11s, and the spec 2 only 7 times. I am waiting a OZ700 with billet flywheel. I think if you are gona do drag racing, go with a Textralia clutch.


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