T56 question
#1
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T56 question
Alright guys im getting a grinding noise from my transmission when i push the clutch in after the catch point, sort of feels like im loosing pressure when i shift gears. Any ideas on what it could be?
#5
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Are you saying that the grinding occurs when you depress the clutch pedal? Or when you try to shift?
If it's making the noise when simply pressing the clutch in, and not attempting to make a gear change, or putting it into gear from neutral, it sounds like the throwout or pilot bearing to me.
If your getting the noise while the clutch pedal is fully pressed to the floor and attempting to make a gear change, then it's obviously not releasing. Flushing the hydraulic system and re-bleeding could remedy the issue, or it might be time for some new components in the clutch assembly.
If it's making the noise when simply pressing the clutch in, and not attempting to make a gear change, or putting it into gear from neutral, it sounds like the throwout or pilot bearing to me.
If your getting the noise while the clutch pedal is fully pressed to the floor and attempting to make a gear change, then it's obviously not releasing. Flushing the hydraulic system and re-bleeding could remedy the issue, or it might be time for some new components in the clutch assembly.
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Alright guys so i checked the fluid level and it was really low so i put some more DOT 3 fluid in, pumped the pedal a few times to bleed it and it still does the same thing. It makes the grinding noise when i push the clutch while im in nuetal and when im making a gear change.
I tried to start to the car today and it had a really hard time turning over, it sounded and felt like something was dragging on the clutch or flywheel. It also felt like i had to push the clutch in more to allow me to switch gears like its loosing pressure. Someone had mentioned to me that it could be the T bolt on the clutch fork dragging on the clutch which is making that noise?
Are the pilot bearing, throwout and fork accessible if I were to drop the tranny? I guess i could start by flushing out the fluid and putting some new fluid in there. Im looking to knock this out on my own if its possible.
I tried to start to the car today and it had a really hard time turning over, it sounded and felt like something was dragging on the clutch or flywheel. It also felt like i had to push the clutch in more to allow me to switch gears like its loosing pressure. Someone had mentioned to me that it could be the T bolt on the clutch fork dragging on the clutch which is making that noise?
Are the pilot bearing, throwout and fork accessible if I were to drop the tranny? I guess i could start by flushing out the fluid and putting some new fluid in there. Im looking to knock this out on my own if its possible.
#7
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Yes, if you remove the tranny you will be able to get to the slave cylinder, which is where the throwout bearing is, the entire assembly is bolted to the tranny, and is what contacts the clutch diaphram fingers to dis-engage the clutch.
The pilot bearing is in the center of the flywheel, it's very small and will require a special puller if it needs replacing. You might need to remove the flywheel to do this, I honestly don't remember on that.
If your wanting to try the hydraulics before all that, here's how I would do it:
I would recommend gravity bleeding it via the bleeder valve in the slave and continue to pour fresh fluid into the reservoir until it's flushed out. There will still be a small amount left in the master cylinder that will need to be flushed out as well. To do this, have the reservoir full, open the bleeder valve on the slave, have a buddy push the clutch in and hold it, then close the bleeder valve, and release the clutch. You'll need to do this several times to flush the old fluid out and allow the new fluid to enter the mc.
After all this THEN, I would do the mity vac process, and how I do that is....
Have a buddy in the car and with the mity vac fitting stuck down in the reservoir pumped to 10 hg, and then have him SLOWLY push the pedal in and out. After a decent amount of slow pumps, release the pressure, make sure the reservoir is still full, and repeat another time or so for good measure.
I have had great results using Valvoline Synpower fluid. Also make sure to never let the fluid level in the reservoir get too low, or air will get back in the system and you'll have to start all over again. Why your down there wrap the stainless steel line with some heat reflective tape, some emissions hose, or something, and secure it as far away from the header as possible. This will keep the fluid from getting hot which breaks the fluid down faster causing poor clutch performance.
Good luck.
The pilot bearing is in the center of the flywheel, it's very small and will require a special puller if it needs replacing. You might need to remove the flywheel to do this, I honestly don't remember on that.
If your wanting to try the hydraulics before all that, here's how I would do it:
I would recommend gravity bleeding it via the bleeder valve in the slave and continue to pour fresh fluid into the reservoir until it's flushed out. There will still be a small amount left in the master cylinder that will need to be flushed out as well. To do this, have the reservoir full, open the bleeder valve on the slave, have a buddy push the clutch in and hold it, then close the bleeder valve, and release the clutch. You'll need to do this several times to flush the old fluid out and allow the new fluid to enter the mc.
After all this THEN, I would do the mity vac process, and how I do that is....
Have a buddy in the car and with the mity vac fitting stuck down in the reservoir pumped to 10 hg, and then have him SLOWLY push the pedal in and out. After a decent amount of slow pumps, release the pressure, make sure the reservoir is still full, and repeat another time or so for good measure.
I have had great results using Valvoline Synpower fluid. Also make sure to never let the fluid level in the reservoir get too low, or air will get back in the system and you'll have to start all over again. Why your down there wrap the stainless steel line with some heat reflective tape, some emissions hose, or something, and secure it as far away from the header as possible. This will keep the fluid from getting hot which breaks the fluid down faster causing poor clutch performance.
Good luck.